When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello everyone. I have searched, but found nothing on my issue, partially because I don't know where the problem starts. For a while I have had some kind of issue with a short on my 04 FX4 that has caused the heart fan not to work, turn signals in the dash to glow with the airbag light and the flashers would not work at all. It also was having an issue with not coming out of park at time and I would have to manually over ride it in the center console. Other than those shorts, it was running fine and everything else was working right.
I drove it about a month ago and it seemed fine, shut it off and walked away. Last week I walked out to it and hit the key fob and it unlocked, lights came on, I got in and turned the key and there is nothing. No lights in the dash, no click, no buzzing nothing. I tried to just start it with no luck. Since then I have changed the ignition switch, battery and cleaned the main grounds. I hear a slight click in the back like the fuel pump it trying to start but doesn't. There is no Power at the the OBII port, and the security light on the top of the dash blinks rapidly after the key is released. I am at a loss. Any help as to where to look next because there is power at the fuse box and it is clean and free from any corrosion so tomorrow I am going to check and see if there is power at the ignition switch. I think fuse links are ok because there is power at the fuse box. Has anyone had this issue and what did they fins?
I would check your power outlet or your cigarette lighter . I kind of remember its on the obd power fuse . Sometimes stuff gets in there and shorts it out ,like coins .
I would check your grounds in passenger kick panel , many times they are rusted out and have to be moved to good metal .
You need a test light to check every fuse after that, use a long lead to battery for your reference . You can't trust the frame or other reference points you can use positive at the battery as a reference when checking grounds . A test light is better its more visual and it draws load , a voltmeter does not so it will read a false signal sometimes .
Can't really pin it down until you do some testing . Then we will see if the relays need replaced .
You do know each fuse the pins come out thru the top so you can check them without pulling .
Some fuses have to be key on run .
Last edited by redfishtd; Aug 26, 2021 at 07:59 PM.
Reason: add detail
Do this:
pull off the fuse box cover on the passenger kick panel.
Pull up the front passenger door sill cover, and pull back the black plastic trim at the bottom corner of the door jamb.
Behind that you will probably find a very crusty ground connection that is rusted away.
This is what the one on my truck looks like I think it is in pretty good shape... Compared to the one somebody posted in this thread below just today which was very crusty and rusty. https://www.f150forum.com/f4/weird-e...1/#post7016287
If you find that looking crusty I think it's your problem and you just need to find a clean piece of metal in the area to screw it onto tight and out some anti corrosion paste on it to protect in the future.
Last edited by needsmoarturbo; Aug 26, 2021 at 08:29 PM.
There is a ground I did not know about. I will check that in the morning. As far as the cigarette lighter, it has been removed, but I will check the wires to make sure they are not touching. I will be using a test light on every fuse as well as going over to the ignition switch to see if the power is there before I turn it. Has 180000 miles on it but a new engine and even though I am in Iowa, It spends most of its time sitting so it is in decent shape. This is getting frustrating.
So working on this issue yesterday morning I found a blown 10 amp fuse, sorry can't remember which one. The ground by the fuse box was in rust, completely. After fixing that I noticed that when I touched the instrument cluster fuse, #1, it sounds like something turns on under the hood. With this I removed the cluster and found that without the cluster it still won't start but some things started to work again. Does the start/run circuit run through the cluster? Any other ideas? I know that the clusters go out from what I read. How can I check it?
So working on this issue yesterday morning I found a blown 10 amp fuse, sorry can't remember which one. The ground by the fuse box was in rust, completely. After fixing that I noticed that when I touched the instrument cluster fuse, #1, it sounds like something turns on under the hood. With this I removed the cluster and found that without the cluster it still won't start but some things started to work again. Does the start/run circuit run through the cluster? Any other ideas? I know that the clusters go out from what I read. How can I check it?
i'd take the time to look up all ground locations, remove, clean and replace them all. Same with battery / starter connections. Not saying this will fix your issue, but bad grounds can cause all sorts of weird stuff and its best to rule that out before spending time and/or money elsewhere. Just my opinion.
So I now, after changing some grounds and the fuse issue, I got it to run an OBII scan.
B1484
Control Unit ABS/ESP
Brake pedal circuit open
P1000
Control Unit; Engine control Unit
OBDII: OBD Systems readiness Test Not Complete
Check of all OBDII Systems Not complete Ford Manufacturer Codes; OBD-II Monitor Testing incomplete
B1681
Control Unit: Engine Control Unit
Pats Transceiver Module Signal Is Not Received; PATS TRANSCEIVER SIGNAL IS NOT BEING RECEIVED BY THE PATS CONTROL
How do I check and see if the key is working. I think it has lost the receiver or key but I only have one key. How do I find out which and get this issue straightened out? Any ideas?
Do this:
pull off the fuse box cover on the passenger kick panel.
Pull up the front passenger door sill cover, and pull back the black plastic trim at the bottom corner of the door jamb.
Behind that you will probably find a very crusty ground connection that is rusted away.
This is what the one on my truck looks like I think it is in pretty good shape... Compared to the one somebody posted in this thread below just today which was very crusty and rusty. https://www.f150forum.com/f4/weird-e...1/#post7016287
If you find that looking crusty I think it's your problem and you just need to find a clean piece of metal in the area to screw it onto tight and out some anti corrosion paste on it to protect in the future.
is that Berliner on the floor metal? If so, what was purpose (rust repair, sound/insulation )? And did you put carpet or rubber floor back down over it? How’s it worked and would you do it again ?
We just ran thru this with another poster. He ended up sending his pcm to a guy that did the pats delete on it and gave him back two keys with it .
I think he should have gotten the dealer to make him some keys first . Its not easy when you have one key so that's why I would go to dealer . They have to be convinced you are the legal owner .
He ran thru a bunch of repairs and mechanics first . The very weak point was his one key . I had six ,I lost all but two .
We just ran thru this with another poster. He ended up sending his pcm to a guy that did the pats delete on it and gave him back two keys with it .
I think he should have gotten the dealer to make him some keys first . Its not easy when you have one key so that's why I would go to dealer . They have to be convinced you are the legal owner .
He ran thru a bunch of repairs and mechanics first . The very weak point was his one key . I had six ,I lost all but two .
when I got my truck it only had one key (was working). It was cheaper for me to just buy a brand new (refurb w/warranty) pcm than it was to have dealer reprogram and/or to send out my pcm. Cheaper, faster (no two way ship) and safer (do t give up existing pcm, can always go back to orig) to go that way.