OK, so today I took out the brake light switch under the dash and determined that it was functioning properly. When the plunger is out the light should be on. When the plunger is depressed, the light should go out. It don't. Shines away, all the time, happy as can be.
SO, the malfunction must be elsewhere. The indicator under the brake fluid reservoir was mentioned in another post. That may very well be the problem, right? It is not expensive, less than $30. However, I don't know how to get it out.
Could it be the cluster? How could that be? The light functions just fine.

I guess I am just thinking in print. I am flummoxed.

 

Are you sure the E-Brake is releasing all the way... very common problem

 

Hi, techrep.

When the emergency brake lever is UP, i.e. the emergency brake is off, the plunger of the emergency brake switch is IN, (depressed). I can reach under the dash and depress the plunger all the way in with my finger. When I do this, he light should turn off. However, it stays on.

Yesterday I removed the switch itself and tested it with my voltmeter. It is working properly.

When the plunger is UP, the switch is closed (electricity cannot pass through the circuit) and thus the indicator light should be out.

When the plunger is DOWN, emergency brake ON, the switch is open (electricity passes through the circuit) and the light should be on.

This is just the way the switch is operating, so the problem must be elsewhere. The light is on all the time.

Please excuse the all caps words. I am not trying to shout. I am only trying to keep my thinking straight and clear in my non-mechanical mind.

This weekend if I can find the time, I will expose the cluster again. I did this when I replaced the bulb behind the odometer, so it should be fairly easy for me the second time around. I will fiddle with the left hand electrical plug and socket and see if I can get the indictor light to go out that way.

Thank you all for your kind and thoughtful help.

Revision:

On re-reading this post I think I misused the words OPEN and CLOSED when referring to the switch. I meant to say when the switch is open electricity cannot pass through the circuit and when the switch is closed electricity can pass through the circuit.

 

Nice job troubleshooting.. I agree with you on the cluster.. you have checked the brake fluid level correct ? It's not just an e-brake light..

 

Yeah, thanks for the reminder.

That one was easy. Someone mentioned low fluid as a cause way back when I first stated to research this issue. I went right out and bought fresh fluid and filled the reservoir. I probably got too much fluid in there now. If I can figure out a way to keep from contaminating the brake fluid I'll try to get some out.

I have not yet figured out how to remove the switch from under the reservoir. I can't see it. I will try to get a mirror I can use. I do have a mirror in my compact in my purse but I don't want to get that one all greasy, LOL.

 

Mine used to do that and it was the cluster. I pulled it apart and soldered every connection. This ended up fixing the E-brake, and my map lights used to go on and off while driving. All good now.

 

Hi, corey lax.

I will check out the cluster as best I can. I don't think I know enough about soldering to attempt to re-solder anything, however.

 

I use a turkey Baster to suck mine out

 

Smack the upper left side of the dash, where the cluster is. It will go off. It will come back on though. From what I've read, there is a connection or harness in that area that needs to be soldered.
I just started getting the same issue, so I picked up a Fx cluster, off a member on the forum. Now I just have to put another 10k miles on my truck, to switch it out, and have the miles be correct.

 

Mine likes to flicker for a while, then goes off for a while. Then starts all over again.