If you install LED bulbs into the taillight housings, you'll nee a load resistor on each side. The "good" online stores that sell LED bulbs will also have the correct wattage load resistors.

If you buy a set of LED taillight housings, make sure they have built in load resistors; the good sets do; the cheap ones don't.

As to the flasher, you'll need a LED flasher as well, as the LED bulbs will flash at ludicris speed, because the LED bulbs have a low amp draw over filiment type bulbs. The stock flasher trips (flashes) based on an "expected" amp circuit; it won't see this with LED's. The advantage of an LED flasher is that it works with stock and LED bulbs, you can "mix" and "match" stock and LED bulbs (for example, stock turn signal bulbs in the headlight housings, LED's in the taillights).

 

This is also what's wrong with my cruise. My question is, how do you get the shifter and console apart without tearing it up? I couldn't find a write up on it.

 

Did a search on "shifter". On second page, this came up:

https://www.f150forum.com/f4/how-rep...olenoid-25420/

 

Thanks!

 

Do you have a picture of this? I've been seeing different ones. Mine is a black box with a white tab on the top. Thanks.

 

I have a 2004 F-150 with the exact same problem. I just came from a very long road trip. I came from Washington State to Florida. It worked great when it wanted to, but when it was done it was done. So I had to drive for a while. I don't have led's and not sure really on course of action to get it fixed. My dad has a 97 f-150 and his cruise just completely quit working and randomly started working and has been working since. Any advice is very much welcomed. Thanks in advance!

 

I have a 2007 f150 supercrew and I got it used a year ago it has had the same problem as long as I have had it. I do not have aftermarket anything on my truck except remote start but it had the problem before I put that on. It seams to be more of a problem driving in the wind or on cold days. If anyone could help with some troubleshooting tips that would really help me out. Thank you very much.

 

Just fixed mine today.

I had similar issues with intermittently functioning cruise control but also had the auto door lock not engage sometimes and then just lock while driving at a constant speed, and no brake lights at all - sometimes but not always.

The solution for me was the brake switch, part number 13480 in this diagram:



Instead of replacing it (couldn't find one locally), I removed it, opened it up (very easy to do), cleaned the contacts, removed some powdery debris and lubed the moving parts. Everything works like a champ now and it didn't cost anything.

I doubt it will last another 150k miles, but given the simple, mechanical nature of this switch, I bet it will last for quite a while to come.

-Mo

 

After long time seeking I fixed my cruise control today within 3 hours.

Model: 5.4 Lariat from 2004 with floor shifter

Fault definition: With "cold" car ( means in the morning or after longer breakes ) the cruise control did its job. But within 20 minutes of running the car it starts to switch itself off during operation. Within the next 5 to 10 mintues I was able to rastart it a few times but after that It gives no sign of life at all until I left the car get "cold" again.

I told my ford dealer about my problem and gave him the car two times to solve the problem. I got two bills - together 150$ - and they told me that they can`t find the problem. They suggested the brake switch but they were not sure. But in my opinion the fault doesn't look like coming from the brake switch because the brake light were working fine. So I asked the internet and found this thread. I pulled out the brake shift interlock and tested it. And guess what - I found the fault.

Fault: Inside of the intelock there is a board and on this board there was a transistor looking like it was overheated (colored marks on the board ). I measured it and there was connection between collector and emitter without voltage on base. I replaced the transistor. Problem fixed. Cruise is working perfekt. Cost: 1,30$ and a little bit of brazing solder. ( I used transistor type BC141 instead of the original ZTX450 )





73116[1].pdf

 

Hey All,


I have the issue that many other people have stated. My cruise control used to work. Then it would work intermittently and kick off sometimes. Now, it does not work at all. I started tearing into the console (center shift) and got the trim and everything pulled apart so I can see the actual solenoid. After looking at it though, I think that the solenoid is not the issue. Below is what the solenoid does at different key positions.
When the key is “off” the solenoid is engaged so I cannot shift into gear even with the brake pressed (correct)
When the key is “aux” the solenoid is engaged so I cannot shift into a gear even with the brake pressed (correct)
Once the key is turned to “on” the solenoid disengages automatically and I can shift to any gear out of park without the break (NOT correct)
The fact that the solenoid does engage/disengage leads me to believe it would be the brake switch. Does this seem to make sense?

I took some pics last night during the console tear down. I'll try to post those up soon to help people see how to tear the console apart.