Original owner of an ‘07 Lariat 5.4. 100,000 miles. Always used synthetic oil,
0W-20 in winter, and usually 5W-20 or 5W-30 in summer (in Canada, with large temp swings). Engine runs fine, no noises on start-up, or any other time. But nothing has been done to the engine. Everything is original OEM. Just got the transmission fluid flushed for the 2nd time, and got a bit of a surprise with bits of metal in the pan and filter (see my other thread about that).

So now, should I spend some money, to save money in the future, by addressing the potential cam phaser and timing chain debacle now?

Would I save money by addressing it now, or should I wait until I hear some noise?

Some people will say sell the truck, but then what? But a new $80k truck? They seem to have more problems than the old ones. This truck is mint, leather is still like brand new, paint is mint. I hate to sell it and buy someone else’s junk, or the new $80k junk.

How much would it cost me to address the inevitable engine issues now? I have decent mechanical abilities, but my time is worth a lot to me and I think I’d rather pay someone to do it (as long as they do it PROPERLY).

Thoughts?

 

I do a motor medic engine flush every other oil change . Some guys do it each time and some let it set overnight .
This engine uses dirty engine oil thru small passages to hydraulically operate cams at a fast rate. That moisture and carbon is hard on the oil. Short trips in a cold climate does not give the pcv system time to get condensation out. So day after day you go from 20 degrees at night to 200 deg f for 20 minutes and turn it off , that is a recipe for sludge. Mileage means nothing in winter for oil changes but who likes laying in snow changing oil . You must get that oil out of there so forget expensive high mileage oil . I see you are very careful about your oil from winter to summer . I have seen edmonton engines with valve covers off and it looked like chocolate frosting caked in there.
But around 125k miles wear on rollers etc starts to show up . The 5.4 3v came with a poor oil pump so when doing timing use a replacement melling hv oil pump . Phasors don't work well with low oil pressure , don't let it get low on oil either.
The original chain tensioners are plastic with poor seals , the newer ones are better but I prefer the older ratcheting steel ones that don't need seals .
Vcts are a maintenance item, change them after 100k or earlier new ones are improved .
Be very careful adding oil, plastic bottle seals have been known to block oil pickup maybe consider a filter funnel . Getting a socket or plastic in there is big trouble they don't dissolve.
I threw a roller off at 130k miles so I changed all rollers and lashs during timing job . I am at 263k miles now and I am on my third set of injectors , The last time I had one shooting a stream of gas all the time another was dripping it was the cause of my misfires luckily it did not hydro , my trust in injectors is low . I always use new injectors not reman .
Never leave a hole in the engine open without a rag in it for even a second .

 

I agree with alot of what @redfishtd said. As for changing out all the timing, I would wait until you start hearing strong noises and/or start getting codes related to timing. Changing VCTs is the only maintenance item I would consider.

That said, make sure the spark plugs have been changed. That might be a little unknown for you as the engine may have the upgraded heads and different non breaking spark plugs. If you coil boots are brown, then you have the upgraded head. If they are black, you have the old head with spark plug issues. If you have the old head then make sure you are using sp546 spark plugs.

Also for maintenance, I would be looking at the spark plug boots. Do not change your coils. Just change out the boots and springs. For one, it's much cheaper. For two, like I said, rarely does the coil itself go out. Just the boots get worn.

As for injectors, I have 160,000 miles and original injectors. My fuel trims are right at 0 for both short and long fuel trims. My gas mileage is almost as good as when it was brand new.

Just a side note, since you are so adamant and particular about the oil changes, you may be the one that won't have any issues in timing. There are truck owners who have over 300,000 with original timing parts. You could be one of those. I would wait until something is breaking before replacing anything in the timing area or the lash adjusters and roller followers. My opinion.

The only other thing for maintenance are things like brake fluid flushes, power steering fluid flushes, differential oil replacement. I'm sure you are on top of it.

Wow, you flushed the transmission and got metal. That would concern me a little. Then again, I'm in the thought to never flush the transmission. Only drain and fill per the manual. In my opinion, flushes ruin transmissions.

 

I'd hold off til 150k miles or until you get any weird noises or timing codes.
The plastic guides don't last forever and imo that's the weakest link even if they don't break they will eventually wear out.
And this job is one that unless you can really trust the shop to do it right it might.be best to diy.

 

206k on my truck and no timing issues at all. I dropped the oil pan at 190k miles and it was clean as a whistle as well……

I just keep an ear out for any issues.

 

Swap to better tensioners and refresh the guides?

The tensioners being cheap garbage and blowing out is really what starts the 3V comedy of errors, anyway. That gets the chains to start whipping the timing cover and the guides get smashed up as well, where the oil pump gets jammed up with shrapnel.

 

Thank you Johnny, that’s kinda what I was getting at. Nipping the problem before it can spiral into something bigger. So if I replace tensioners and chain guides with the upgraded parts, my 5.4 would be “bulletproofed”?

Can you or anyone provide Part #’s or links to what are considered the upgraded tensioners and guides?

Is there a good DIY resource for this task?

 

Would removing the oil pan tell me if I should do the timing job? If the oil pan is clean, no need to go looking for work?

Also, on a 4x4, is the pan easy to R&R?

 

I dunno about that. If there is no debris in there it means you don't need to do the job right away, but doesn't mean you won't have to do it in say 10k miles if a piece of plastic chan guide breaks then.
On a 4x4 it is probably 2-3 hours of work. You have to drop a cross member, and the passenger side of the front axle bolt needs to be removed. I think maybe the sway bar as well. It's not a terrible job, the pan bolts are easier if you also have a longish extension to reach all the bolts that hold it one since you have to reach up between trans cooler lines, cross members, etc.

 

best preventative is to use full synthetic and change the oil regularly.......

You should also use the manufacturer recommended oil weight, not sure why you're changing oil type?