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A/C compressor clutch DIODE when all else works fine
Originally Posted by Christiancito
Hello, here I am again, seems like owning a Ford truck guarantees you a lifetime of issues, anyways, This time I'm having problems with my AC. It's fully charged but compressor doesn't kick in. Bypassed relay and it works fine. Replaced pressure sensor and nothing. Any ideas? My mechanic is out of ideas already, so I am... Thanks!
Try the A/C compressor Clutch DIODE... it was dirty and everything worked perfectly after hours at local mechanic checked low pressure switch; high pressure switch; ambient temp sensor; clutch relay switch; fuses located in cab passenger side floor board area; cabin A/c control switches (turning the a/c on and off); full of freon; etc. BTW mine is a 2008 Supercab FX4 5.4 Triton with new Crate engine at 222,000 and currently at 317,000+ miles and 3 transmissions, I am second owner since 2015.
Check this out: thanks to redfishtd
[QUOTE=redfishtd;5351416]When ac releases a reverse polarity kick results and the diode absorbs it as a short . That's to protect your other electrical items and cushion the blow to your ac shutoff elements . Big coils are bad about that such as your clutch coil . .
My ac relay was intermittent in engine compartment box . Its a small relay that most supply houses have .It's on the small side for what it does ,definitely try that first as it's cheap .
The relay has the grd side controlled by the PCM in the engine compartment it processes the ac controls thru it so it's more complicated than the old systems .Your temp control in the dash is another thing to the pcm .They do go bad .
This is an 05 drawing , but you can see that there is 3 fuses just in this part . There are some in the dash temp control circuit , which people screw up tying in other stuff-- radios etc . Time to get your multimeter out and see where you are losing the voltage .If you have it across the ac clutch relay coil including grd side then thats your problem .[/QUO
[QUOTE=srsmith68;7629646]Try the A/C compressor Clutch DIODE... it was dirty and everything worked perfectly after hours at local mechanic checked low pressure switch; high pressure switch; ambient temp sensor; clutch relay switch; fuses located in cab passenger side floor board area; cabin A/c control switches (turning the a/c on and off); full of freon; etc. BTW mine is a 2008 Supercab FX4 5.4 Triton with new Crate engine at 222,000 and currently at 317,000+ miles and 3 transmissions, I am second owner since 2015.
Check this out: thanks to redfishtd
Originally Posted by redfishtd
When ac releases a reverse polarity kick results and the diode absorbs it as a short . That's to protect your other electrical items and cushion the blow to your ac shutoff elements . Big coils are bad about that such as your clutch coil . .
My ac relay was intermittent in engine compartment box . Its a small relay that most supply houses have .It's on the small side for what it does ,definitely try that first as it's cheap .
The relay has the grd side controlled by the PCM in the engine compartment it processes the ac controls thru it so it's more complicated than the old systems .Your temp control in the dash is another thing to the pcm .They do go bad .
This is an 05 drawing , but you can see that there is 3 fuses just in this part . There are some in the dash temp control circuit , which people screw up tying in other stuff-- radios etc . Time to get your multimeter out and see where you are losing the voltage .If you have it across the ac clutch relay coil including grd side then thats your problem .[/QUO
2008 f-150 Limited crew cab with Triton- I was working on 2 separate issues for some time and today realized that they are linked. My A/C worked intermittently and sometimes my radio and dome light would not turn off when I opened the door (ignition off, key out). After months of troubleshooting them separately, I realized that the 2 issues always happened and then cleared randomly about the same time. It turned out there was a common denominator: the door switch which controls the delayed off circuit. After spray lubing all 4 door latches with lithium grease (the switch is on the bottom of the latch so gravity gets it down there) and manually working the latches a couple dozen times, the radio/light issue was solved and my A/C began working immediately. Give that a shot, it's easy and simple. There is also a thread on the delay issue that ID's a fuseable link in the channel under the rear door plastic sill plate. I would think that a failure in that connection would also create the same A/C symptoms. So search that too if the lube job doesn't work. Good luck!
Hello, here I am again, seems like owning a Ford truck guarantees you a lifetime of issues, anyways, This time I'm having problems with my AC. It's fully charged but compressor doesn't kick in. Bypassed relay and it works fine. Replaced pressure sensor and nothing. Any ideas? My mechanic is out of ideas already, so I am... Thanks!
I have the same problem. I don’t know why compresor active 3 second and then stop. Do you resolve your problem? PCM maybe???
My truck is 2009 Ford F150 Lariat 5.4 with monitor. Remplace the valve ac expansion. High pressure sensor ac. Condenser. Fresh ac fluid with machine. Out/in. Fuse all good, relay all good. Just star be bypass in the relay but line freeze after 10 min. (Approximately ) Running. I don’t see cable broken. Signal arrive in the compressor but just 3 seconds and then stop when I don’t used the bypass. Is frustration.