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2004 - 2008 Ford F150 General discussion on the 2004 - 2008 Ford F150 truck.

balancer install (harmonic install).. need some tips..

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Old Jul 25, 2014 | 12:39 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by VTX1800N1
No modular motor has ever had a cap and rotor from the factory. His engine doesn't have plug wires either. Coil on plug.

Thick film ignitions haven't been used for decades.
Ooooooo, heck. I scrolled back to the first page and saw you said "05".

Nevermind, then.

Could you put a spark tester light on each plug to see if all of then are firing, or does the coil-over-plug design prevent you from doing that? (I haven't worked as a shop mechanic since about '99, so I haven't repaired an '05 before now.)

Either way, you can still check the plugs themselves, and/or do individual compression checks, to see if one of them hasn't been firing correctly...
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Old Jul 25, 2014 | 12:53 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by VTX1800N1
The proper tool is how you avoid damaging parts. Hammering the balancer in place is a very bad idea. Please don't give out this kind of advice.
Excuse you? I -just said- that if you're the type to hammer on it then you should take it to a man in a shop. Why are you giving me a hard time by repeating what I just said in the previous message?

When I put mine on last week I tapped the balancer on the shaft with a wooden handle, and I could easily have tapped the headlight or side mirrors with the same amount of -light- force and caused them no damage at all. What you're talking about here is a heavy steel turning going on a heavy steel shaft, with a drop of RTV lubricating the middle. You -aren't- going to hurt them, unless you're an idiot and you beat on them - as I've already said.

If I had taken the radiator out I -could- have just pushed with both hands and achieved the same effect, but you can't do that from underneath. The point of what I wrote is that you can take the original bolt and use it to push the balancer all the way on the shaft, so long as you're capable of lining up a keyway.

If you're not, take it to a man with a shop...
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Old Jul 25, 2014 | 01:00 PM
  #23  
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It's not the balancer or the crank that you will damage, it's the thrust bearing. You also said you were not a fan of using the proper tool for the job, which is exactly the wrong attitude to have.

Last edited by VTX1800N1; Jul 25, 2014 at 01:40 PM.
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Old Jul 25, 2014 | 04:19 PM
  #24  
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Using what you have near carefully is the American Way. Most have studs and nuts and washers and stuff like that along with dead blow/soft mallets, pry bars pullers and installers and stuff like that near by.
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Old Jul 25, 2014 | 06:03 PM
  #25  
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The proper tool is $90. I bet you could even rent one for free if you look around at the auto parts stores, but go ahead and hammer it on there. These engines already have a problem with the thrust bearings falling out.

Last edited by VTX1800N1; Jul 25, 2014 at 09:41 PM.
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Old Jul 27, 2014 | 10:40 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by VTX1800N1
The proper tool is $90. I bet you could even rent one for free if you look around at the auto parts stores, but go ahead and hammer it on there. These engines already have a problem with the thrust bearings falling out.
How many times do I have to tell you, I did NOT say to hammer it on.

You can keep repeating nonsense if you want. It seems to entertain you. I'm done with this and won't be back to reply again.
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