TheOldRaker

I just had a thought. If this truck had a towing package, would the drive shaft slip yoke be a different size than a truck without a towing package.

Reason I'm thinking of this, is because when I looked up this part, it said it also fit an 04 E250, which is a van. I found one in a junkyard, pulled the driveshaft, got a look at the slip yoke, and it was too small, just like the part I ordered that supposedly fit my truck. So maybe because I have a towing package, it has a beefed up slip yoke. Thoughts?

TheOldRaker

I finally found a drive shaft at a junkyard today. They would only sell me the whole thing, with both flanges for $100.00. I bought it, replaced the U Joints, and got it installed today. Test drove the truck, and it seems to have fixed the issue, mostly.. There is still the smallest bit of shake at exactly 52 miles an hour, but its nothing like how bad it was. I'm wondering if I should take the time to pull the drive shaft off again, take it to a driveshaft shop and have them balance it. Anyone have any thoughts on this?

Also, how do you guys toque these bolts into the rear differential when a ratchet doesn't really fit with the drive shaft in the way? Also, what are the torque specs on the bolts that attach the shaft to the rear differential?

TheOldRaker

Slow follow up here, but I've been busy with other things.

This weekend I rebuilt the whole front end suspension, and it helped some, but I'm not convinced I've got all the shake out. I haven't had an alignment yet(that's tomorrow), so I don't want to judge to early here whether or not the issue is fixed. It did firm up the steering to the steering wheel. Things feel sort of new again.

There is still some little bit of shake going on at certain speeds still though. Ruling out the drive shaft or front suspension, any other ideas? Would a bent axle do this or something like that?

Lastly, now that the front is behaving better, I notice how jumpy the rear end is now. So I'll be replacing the rear shocks in a few weeks as well.

TheOldRaker

I got the truck back from the alignment this morning and just realized another symptom. The shaking feels like it might be related to the brakes. When I press the brake, I feel a sort of speed related rubbing through the pedal. It's hard to describe, but it feels like instead of slowing down at an even rate, it slows in sections related to the revolution of the tire. Does that make sense? I'm thinking a possible rotor is warped. Does anyone know how to check for that in your driveway? OR Does this test take a proper shop?

My thoughts are this, the Rotor attaches to the tire which attaches all together to the knuckle. So if the rotor was warped, you would feel it hitting the brake pads over and over. Although I don't know how this relates to more shake during fast speeds. I'm trying to relate this to the difference between a warped rotor and a bent axle. Can you guys see a bent axle being more of a go to problem area than a warped rotor? Any tests for a bent axle? I can't seem to wrap my head around this right now.

LariatDude

My buddy had a warped rotor and could feel it in his brake pedal. My mom had her fronts warped and would shudder when ever braking hard to a stop. What makes you think your axle is bent though?

TheOldRaker

Mainly my lack of knowing why my truck's steering wheel shakes so much at high speeds. I fired the parts cannon at my suspension, and it still shakes. I'm just looking in any direction at this point. Heck, I'd replace the blinkers if I thought it would let me drive this truck without shakes.

LariatDude

When were the wheels last balanced?

TheOldRaker

I've had them balanced a couple times, but it's been a while. I should mention that never helped the shaking issue.

TheOldRaker

Well, I just ordered new rotors and pads. I'm sure some people still think it's the tires, but I'm just picking something to replace. I'm on a mission to have a ride that doesn't shake.

Also, I just can't see how a separated radial would make the steering wheel shake back and forth. If someone can explain how that works, by all means, I'll listen.

Jamieat

Well,

If the tire is separating, even the slightest, it could be dragging off inward or outward only at that exact spot on the tire. So, as it continues a revolution past that point, it then corrects it's track and repeats over and over.

My tires did this when I replaced the factory tires years ago. You could not drive 70 mph the steering wheel shook so bad.

You bring back bad memories man!!!
About the shaking. My experience was......
Shortly after I bought my truck new in 05, I started getting a "shake" or vibration between 50-55mph.

Took it in to dealer, said all was good.

I knew there was an issue though. So, I began paying close attention to the symptom. What I discovered was that at that certain speed, especially on straight roads, the "wind shear" would cause the bed of the truck to start vibrating. I could see it in my mirror.

For awhile I wasnt sure if the mirror was shaking or if I was seeing it correctly so, I had my buddy drive so I could ride with my head out the window and watch. Sure enough, it was the bed vibrating.

So, I took it to the local body shop I've always dealt with, they inspected, and said everything was intact and there were no mechanical or structural issues with the truck. Was just a bad design on the "pads" or whatever their called that prevents this.

I ended up taking it back to them again to verify and there was nothing they could fix.

When it finally went away, was after 3 years of owning the truck, I installed a leveling kit and bigger tires.

Didn't think of it till sometime later that it wasn't doing it anymore. I've always attributed it to the angle change was enough to change the wind shear on the truck. IDK, but it hasn't done it in 10 years.

Im sorry but I didnt see what year your truck was but, I know the 04-05's had more rake than the later models. And, I've seen this same thing on others in that year class as I've paid attention when driving next to them.

I remember, I could jump hard or drop something heavy in the bed and it would continue to vibrate for several seconds after. Maybe a way to check?

Far as the warped rotor, only way I know would be to use a run out gauge while spinning it around and also measure thickness. Although, the runout would be the thing I'd think you'd see most.

I just had the rotors on my 07F250 state vehicle replaced due to warped rotors. I took it to Kouffman Tire twice to have it checked, both times they said they were good "based on their measurements". Took it to another shop, guy showed me that it would not even go on the machine to try and turn them due to the runout being so bad.

Just FYI