I had a frozen passenger side caliper a week or so ago. I replaced it with a caliper from AutoZone this past weekend. I then proceeded to bleed the brakes using the 5 presses and stop method. I also changed out both front pads and rotors while I was doing this.

The problem seems to be that after initially bleed the brakes they are perfectly fine. Once I start the truck the brakes become very spongy. The truck seems to stop just fine however I do not like the feel of the brakes.....feels unsafe.

I tried the adjustment of the rod behind the MC but I get the same result of firm brakes until I start the Truck. Did I forget to do something or am I missing something completely with this truck?

 

could be the choice of rotors and pads you installed.

 

Never adjust the brake pedal rod! You still have air in the system (spongy pedal) and once you get this out, the pedal rod pre load is going to be wrong, and the brakes may then drag, causing them to heat your rotors, and set the brake lights to always on.

Get a MightyVac and bleed all four corners. Start with the passenger rear, then the drivers side rear, then the passenger side front, and then the drivers side front.

 

While your at it would get a new sponge or some way to get old brake fluid out of master cylinder and add new.. Then bleed all four corners ..The if the rotors were glazed over or anything it might take a few miles for them to work correctly.

 

Where can I get this mightvac bleeder system from? I guess I will start there. Didn't think air could get trapped in there to the point I would have to bleed all 4 corners.

 

I use a turkey baster (large looking tube with a rubber ball looking sucker at the other end) to draw out the old fluids in cases like this. Just don't take the one from the kitchen!

About 2 bucks at your local Target/Walmart at the kitchen supply department.

 

was it doing that before the caliper? And when you swapped out the caliper ALWAYS tap the caliper so it works the air out you never get it all just bleeding.

The correct procedure to swap is too
1: pinch the brake line by the Brake cylinder with a flat vise grip or the actual tool.
2: remove the caliper + install new one
3: remove vise grip
4: crack the bleeder and let it gravity bleed.
5: once fluid comes out start the bleeding procedure, while holding the pedal tap the caliper with a wrench or something to help work the air out.

it wouldn't be your master cylinder unless you ran it out of fluid

 

was not doing it before the caliper. I will try to bleed the system again but using a bleeder kit and see what happens.

 

Pump the crap out of them...

 

So this is now a moot point since the engine just blew. Another Casualty of the leaky injector.