Ac compressor line question
#1
Ac compressor line question
I noticed some oil drops on my driveway around the compressor area after I did my timing job a few weeks ago. I finally investigated and everything in that area is wet from looking at it underneath. I really messed with the low pressure line to get it out of my way for the passenger side valve cover. Its partially rubber and then becomes the hard line near the compressor. I know I have to take the tire and splash cover off to really see in there. My question is how is it attached and best case scenario is there an o ring that may have failed when I was moving it around and does the high line connect near or with it? I just don't know enough about the set up to be prepared to fix it. The compressor looks dry from the top and I haven't recharged the system yet so I can disconnect anything I have to. Any insight would be great. I really thought I was done with repairing things on this truck after the huge labor of the timing job
#2
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
What makes you think its ac oil
Your timing cover is right there . Many times guys don't put rtv on joints when putting timing cover on . Plus a dab on keyway for crank shaft seal .
There are 4 metal joints on engine flange where timing cover goes . Same on oil pan and valve covers , They act like a channel for oil . Then you must torque covers down .
Just thought I would throw that out there .
There are 4 metal joints on engine flange where timing cover goes . Same on oil pan and valve covers , They act like a channel for oil . Then you must torque covers down .
Just thought I would throw that out there .
#3
Your timing cover is right there . Many times guys don't put rtv on joints when putting timing cover on . Plus a dab on keyway for crank shaft seal .
There are 4 metal joints on engine flange where timing cover goes . Same on oil pan and valve covers , They act like a channel for oil . Then you must torque covers down .
Just thought I would throw that out there .
There are 4 metal joints on engine flange where timing cover goes . Same on oil pan and valve covers , They act like a channel for oil . Then you must torque covers down .
Just thought I would throw that out there .
#4
Your timing cover is right there . Many times guys don't put rtv on joints when putting timing cover on . Plus a dab on keyway for crank shaft seal .
There are 4 metal joints on engine flange where timing cover goes . Same on oil pan and valve covers , They act like a channel for oil . Then you must torque covers down .
Just thought I would throw that out there .
There are 4 metal joints on engine flange where timing cover goes . Same on oil pan and valve covers , They act like a channel for oil . Then you must torque covers down .
Just thought I would throw that out there .
#5
05 5.4l 3v s.crew lariat
I had to tell you we had several cases of the timing cover leak
Unfortunately the ac compressor right there . Some guys didn't use the rtv ,that's why I mentioned it . If you didn't disturb the compressor lines I'm not sure why the oil would be there from an ac leak up above .
I'm with you on the timing cover its a lot of work . I failed to use metal tensioners ,if I go back in I have them ready . Its not going to happen unless necessary .
Been a awhile since I was in there it could be six points ,I forgot the inside of the V . I did use new gaskets on timing cover since I bought the whole kit .
I had to drop my compressor down a little to get timing cover off, I think I couldn't unplug crank sensor but on reinstall I plugged it in first before mounting cover .
I didn't break seal on my ac system ,I just pulled lines out of the way .
Before I would pull cover I would try and tighten it a little . I made the card board mock up of the cover and put bolts in cardboard and used that to note sequence/ torque values . Some good guy on here gave us the idea.
I'm with you on the timing cover its a lot of work . I failed to use metal tensioners ,if I go back in I have them ready . Its not going to happen unless necessary .
Been a awhile since I was in there it could be six points ,I forgot the inside of the V . I did use new gaskets on timing cover since I bought the whole kit .
I had to drop my compressor down a little to get timing cover off, I think I couldn't unplug crank sensor but on reinstall I plugged it in first before mounting cover .
I didn't break seal on my ac system ,I just pulled lines out of the way .
Before I would pull cover I would try and tighten it a little . I made the card board mock up of the cover and put bolts in cardboard and used that to note sequence/ torque values . Some good guy on here gave us the idea.
#7
I took the wheel off and splash guard, could barely see the comp lines let alone get to them. They actually looked ok but back of pass valve cover in one area near a screw it was slightly wet. I don't think enough to cause a huge leak but non the less I was not happy. I was super detailed about torque and everything. So, I dried it off and cleaned it and siliconed the heck out of it. There's no way I'm taking that valve cover off unless I have to. I know its not the best solution but the same stuff is on the valve covers and timing cover so what the heck. Timing cover is as dry as a bone. I included the 2 areas near the oil pan as the 6 areas total and I know each valve cover had 2 areas to silicone just to clear up my comment. I worked on my front driver brake/rotor today also and had to cut half of the rusted back plate/guard because it was rubbing. I noticed both front wheels spun with truck off and jacked up which I think they are not supposed to do with my 4x4 so I may have an IWE issue. Tested what I could with vac pump and have to get further into it later. Drove it around and no puddles/dripping so far
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#8
Senior Member
I thought I once read that ford puts die in the ac systems, so you could try a black light to see if the oil illuminates.
#9
Its definitely the valve cover. Silicone twice didn't work. Took me 3 plus hours to get that passenger side off again and didn't move as much stuff so it was tight getting it off. Going to silicone the groove a little to hold it and get it back on. Man that far back one is a bear even with the wheel off. What was Ford thinking. Now I know why the newer trucks only have 8 valve cover bolts
#10