5.4 setting timing from scratch.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 2
Thanks again for the replies.
I ended up doing just what you suggested. No problems rotating crank & cams. New phasers went on and were showing "correct" position. Left cam had to be turned just slightly to line up marks on chain. Right side had to rotate a bit further to line up correctly. The right phaser/cam seems to be right on the edge of rolling over in order for the chains to line up correctly.
Once everything was put on, I rotated the crank by hand several revolutions just to make sure nothing was hitting a piston. I noticed one issue while doing this:
Left side timing chain never seems to go loose or slack. Right side chain will go get a little slack on the guide side when the cam rolls over,,,if that makes sense. The slack disappears with another 1/4 turn of crank or so,,,but its still there none the less.
Wasn't sure if that is typical or not.
I ended up doing just what you suggested. No problems rotating crank & cams. New phasers went on and were showing "correct" position. Left cam had to be turned just slightly to line up marks on chain. Right side had to rotate a bit further to line up correctly. The right phaser/cam seems to be right on the edge of rolling over in order for the chains to line up correctly.
Once everything was put on, I rotated the crank by hand several revolutions just to make sure nothing was hitting a piston. I noticed one issue while doing this:
Left side timing chain never seems to go loose or slack. Right side chain will go get a little slack on the guide side when the cam rolls over,,,if that makes sense. The slack disappears with another 1/4 turn of crank or so,,,but its still there none the less.
Wasn't sure if that is typical or not.
Sheep Dog
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,128
Likes: 330
It does appear as though your phasers are on the wrong sides.. (But its hard to really tell in the pic)... Right is left and left is right when your FACING THE ENGINE FROM THE FRONT OF THE VEHICLE.. The drivers side is always the LEFT side of the motor, and the passenger side is the RIGHT, When sitting in the drivers seat.. That how parts are labeled and yes, its kinda confusing sometimes...... So swap that phaser marked R to the Left side of the motor (battery side)..
Check this out: https://www.f150forum.com/showthread...e1394386869748
It should answer all your questions and concerns.
Check this out: https://www.f150forum.com/showthread...e1394386869748
It should answer all your questions and concerns.
Last edited by VTX1800N1; Mar 9, 2014 at 05:21 PM.
Sheep Dog
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 2,128
Likes: 330
I appreciate your info. In the diagram it shows the placement of the crank with the key at 12 o'clock which takes the #1 off tdc.
Additionally I will have to rotate the cams to put the marks in proper placement for the chains to line up where they should go.
So,, crank set at #1 tdc or set as diagram shows?
Either way I will have to rotate cam to place phaser mark in correct location, is that correct.
I hope this doesn't come across negatively, I just really don't want to put this thing all back together, and find that I made a mistake I could have avoided.
**update**
In my infinite wisdom,(very sarcastic) it has dawned on me that the #1 cylinder may be tdc of the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke. I was informed that when the phasers were removed the cam had also spun, (cam was not locked in place). I was told the cam was spun back in place or where it was originally seated, but I can't be sure.
I can find tdc of the compression stroke, but I am unclear as to how to handle the cam. It would appear judging by the marks on the phaser that I am off 1/2 of a full revolution on the cam, which kinda makes sense because the lobes of the cam above the #1 cylinder are not setting where they should be for tdc compression. They as well are off 180 degrees.
Additionally I will have to rotate the cams to put the marks in proper placement for the chains to line up where they should go.
So,, crank set at #1 tdc or set as diagram shows?
Either way I will have to rotate cam to place phaser mark in correct location, is that correct.
I hope this doesn't come across negatively, I just really don't want to put this thing all back together, and find that I made a mistake I could have avoided.
**update**
In my infinite wisdom,(very sarcastic) it has dawned on me that the #1 cylinder may be tdc of the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke. I was informed that when the phasers were removed the cam had also spun, (cam was not locked in place). I was told the cam was spun back in place or where it was originally seated, but I can't be sure.
I can find tdc of the compression stroke, but I am unclear as to how to handle the cam. It would appear judging by the marks on the phaser that I am off 1/2 of a full revolution on the cam, which kinda makes sense because the lobes of the cam above the #1 cylinder are not setting where they should be for tdc compression. They as well are off 180 degrees.
As a side note, always test an engine after timing it by rotating the crank for several revolutions in the normal run direction. This is a preliminary test to make sure that timing is correct and valves and pistons do not collide. It's not conclusive, however, because modern engines have variable cam timing. The cam timing on the Triton varies by as much as 60°.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 8
Likes: 2
As suggested, I placed the chains onto the phasers and crank sprocket. Tensioner and guides as well. Then rotated the crank one full revolution which in turn spun the cams 180 degrees.
This placed the phasers in the correct position. I removed the chains again and re-installed them with the corresponding marks. Worked out just fine.
Put it all back together last night, around midnight and fired it up. Ran perfect...SOOOOOOO much quieter. It was getting to the point where you would almost have to shut it off in a drive through so they could hear you.
I do however need to inspect (luckily) the driver side valve cover, not sure if I missed a bolt, or maybe disturbed the new gasket when I was installing it. But I have an oil leak that is dripping directly on my exhaust. My idle seems to be a little lower then normal as well. Going to check the valve cover then make sure all wiring harnesses and hoses are on and correct.
Thanks for all the help and responses. The "5.4 guide" on this forum was extremely useful.
This placed the phasers in the correct position. I removed the chains again and re-installed them with the corresponding marks. Worked out just fine.
Put it all back together last night, around midnight and fired it up. Ran perfect...SOOOOOOO much quieter. It was getting to the point where you would almost have to shut it off in a drive through so they could hear you.
I do however need to inspect (luckily) the driver side valve cover, not sure if I missed a bolt, or maybe disturbed the new gasket when I was installing it. But I have an oil leak that is dripping directly on my exhaust. My idle seems to be a little lower then normal as well. Going to check the valve cover then make sure all wiring harnesses and hoses are on and correct.
Thanks for all the help and responses. The "5.4 guide" on this forum was extremely useful.