ddc

I had my oil changed before Christmas at the dealer. So far its been running fine. Sits in the garage at night and outside during the day at work. Hasn't had a problem, no diesel sounding startups that is. I've learned, use Motorcraft semi-syn 5w-20 only for us in the cold north. Now the only issue is the squealing from under the hood, its not the serp pulleys or alternator. This was confirmed by removing the belt and starting it up. Its a vac leak, not the intake gaskets, comes and goes. Suspect a vac line for brakes, or emmissions. Its all the way in the back. Still runs good, same mileage as always..

catfish61

I have a 2006 5.4 . My engine is showing knock sensor failure . When traveling at a constant speed lets just say on cruise and I encounter even the slightest incline that requires a little more umph , truck will will jerk 2 or 3 times .

Question 1. Does this sound consistant with knock sensor failure ?

Question 2. Is it imperative to remove the airtake manifold as one site states ? It looks as if I might be able to get to it by removing the upper and lower gooseneck ( thermostat ) housings....

Sailor_USN

My truck suffered from the "ticking" noise syndrome. It was happening during cold start ups (morning and if I had parked the truck for over 4hrs) and lasted for a few seconds until the engine started idling. It was also noisy the more I stepped on the gas; driving on the freeway made the truck sound like a diesel haha after reading and checking online for other cases I took it to a shop here in San Diego. They ran a smoke diagnostic leak detector and they were able to see a leak near cylinder #4 (passenger side, furthest back). The mech told me the manifold might need refurfacing (is that a word?) to make it "flat" since it seemed like it was leaking a small amount of smoke. After they removed it they noticed the exhaust manifold was good, it was only the gasket that needed replaced. They ordered the two gaskets required to fix it but they told me the ones they purchased were a few milimeters thicker than the OEM one to prevent it from happening. On the invoice they listed the part # as 9L3Z9448A which comes up as being OEM but anyways... that fixed my problem right up; a slightly thicker gasket. Like anything, it worked for my problem and I hope it works for ya'll. I wasnt sure if the gasket had been addressed but I figured might as well share it :P

marcus32

[MENTION=121784]acate76[/MENTION] i have exactly the same thing, in fact it was spooky how similar our trucks sound at startup. i have a 2004 SCREW with the 5.4.

my truck has done 122k but at 108k i was getting lots of codes for timing issues plus misfires etc. whilethe motor was runnning i could here the rattling behind the timing cover so i changed the cam phaser, cam sensors, timing chains, guides, crank gear, tensioners, water pump and alternator. everything was running fine until about a month ago when i started to here the "cold start rattle". i instantly assumed i had another broken guide so i got to work and opened the timing cover where i found 3 broken guides (cheap aftermarket ones as ford didnt have any in stock) i changed them out and expected all to be well again but...nope, the "cold start rattle" is still there and it sounds like its coming from further back in the engine.

currently the truck isnt throwing any codes and if it were a bad phaser i would expect some timing codes again. surely it cant be true that noone knows what this rattle could be

marcus32

[MENTION=174435]TMT[/MENTION] oh, and i already have my CATs removed; no need to have them here in the Middle East

lowspeedchase

I'm having many of the same issues guys and need some help. I finally saved some money to get rid of my "ticking" on my 06 XLT ext. cab 4x4. Of course I wanted to by new wheels, etc. but decided I had to fix some noises first. I have 145,000 miles on it and changed plugs and coils last year(nightmare). I had 2 new cam phasers put in and the mechanic says he put a new timing chain "kit" in. I get the truck back and it's rattling at startup real back which it had never done before. Then it started running terribly and actually stalling at lights. He pulled it apart for free and said one of the cam phasers he put in was bad so he replaced it with a ford one. Truck runs fine now but is rattling at startup terribly. remember it never rattled at startup before changing cam phasers/timing chain. It's throwing code p-0340 now but running fine. I changed the oil again just to make sure that wasn't it and it rattles like crazy still and threw the code as soon as it started up. I took it back to the mechanic again where he assured me that he changed both chains, all the guides, and tensioners. he says that it has no oil pressure at startup and this is my reason for the rattle. make sense to anyone? i'm going crazy trying to figure out what to do with this thing. new engine is not an option although he did offer to look around for me!

thanks in advance for any help. sounds exactly like the youtube video posted.

vintageman

I wanted to post this as I have just completed the change out of my phasers, tensioners, guides, reluctor wheel, chains, all 24 lash adjusters and followers in my 2004 F150 4WD with 149,000 miles. Sounds and runs great right now. Here are the things that I learned during the process.


I disconnected the fan shroud and ran a short piece of chain to one of the 4 bolts on the water pump pulley and the other to another bolt on the block. This chain held the pump pulley in place so that I could take the fan blade off. Took the upper radiator hose off and then the fan and shroud assy out. Started on the left (drivers side) and disconnected the plugs to the MAF, Intake plugs on top, all the fuel injectors, and COPs. Disconnected the vacuum hose at the brake booster. Removed the power steering res and then the bracket (the 18mm at the bottom was a pita but wasn't too bad). Disconnected the VCT and then tied the harness out of the way. Removed the COPs at and the seal around the VCT(that was a PITA as well), removed the VCT with a T27 torx driver(had to modify the handle because it was to wide at the bottom and kept hitting the VCT), then loosened all the bolts holding the valve cover down. I was lucky in the fact that I could stand in front of the engine and rest my head on the front cowl near the windshield and get to the back bolt on the valve cover pretty easy. Then I took out the oil dipstick bolt. I then went to the right side and disconnected the same things. I also ended up removing the inner fender cover on my right side to get the last 2 bolts on the valve cover and the transmission dip stick bolt. I removed the PCM and battery box during this and could not get the AC to move over enough, so I had to disconnect the line, I needed to fill it anyway. Be careful if you do this with Freon in the system, wrap a towel or something around the fitting so that you do not get it in your eyes, (best to have a pro do this part prior to starting the tear down). Tied everything out of the way, then removed the VC. Went back to the front, set my harmonic balancer to the 12:00 position and took the belt tensioner off and the belt. Went through 2 different pullers for the power steering pump and could not get the pulley off, got the 10mm wrench out and took the bolts out (long process but they came out). Loosened the top 2 bolts first and then the bottom bolt. Had to take off the oil filter to get to the bottom bolt. Got the power steering pump moved out of the way and took the rest of the pulleys off. Pulled out the impact gun and took off the harmonic balancer bolt and used a puller to remove the balancer. Took out the front cover bolts, and the 4 bolts on the front of the oil pan and pulled the cover off.
Things I found were, the right side chain guide was broken into 5 pieces, both tensioner gaskets were blown, 13 out of 24 lash adjusters were bled down and would not pump up.
I marked the position of the cams with nail polish my wife gave me on the cam holders and in between the cam journals. I also verified the correct cam lobe directions prior to removing the chains. Once verified, I removed the phasers and cam holders, pulled the cam out one side at a time and changed the lash adjusters and followers(I let the lash adjusters soak in oil for a couple of days prior to installing, I also, held them in the oil and pumped them up with oil to get any air bubbles out). Installed the cams, held them in place with vice grips while I torqued them down.
Removed all the timing components in the same order as the first page of this thread. When I installed the chains, the 2 colored links at the phasers were both 1 link off, I removed the phaser, turned it so that the marks lined up and with the vice grips, turned the cams slightly until the phaser lined up with the cam. Verified all timing marks again, then checked the torque again on the bolts (used blue locktite on the bolts). Then I reinstalled all the covers and things I had disconnected. Filled up the antifreeze, put the oil filter back on.
When I started it, it idled and sounded great. Went for a test drive and got the P0012 error and an O2 sensor error. Found out that I had a VC gasket leak on the left side, parked it and let it cool down till the next day.
Pulled the left side VC off, and fixed the gasket. I had removed both VCT sensors and cleaned those and dipped them in clean oil prior to installing on the opposite sides hoping that if I got an error, that would help with troubleshooting. Put it all back together, changed the oil and installed a MC filter, started it and let it idle in my driveway for about an hour looking for oil leaks. No leaks and no codes. Waited for about an hour before test drive, pulling out of the driveway, got the P0012 error again, cleared it with a pocket scanner and drove it for about 20 miles, ran great. Waited fro a couple hours, took another 10-15 mile drive and then later a 35 mile drive last night. No codes popped up. Been driving all day with errands around town and no codes yet. Hopefully it is good and the noise stays gone. I hope this helps someone.
Tom

vintageman

Well, I meant to post that in the Final guide to phaser noise, but that's what I get for having so many tabs open. Good luck all.
Tom

Strephon

My 01 f150 was making that same noise it went away when i replaced the intake manifold. Run a compression test to it as well

19KMG

Wondering if anyone else has had to change their thermal fan clutch due to the bearings wearing out. It was really loose but not from the point it connected to the water pump. Really easy to change out. I changed it on a 2005 Ford F-150 King Ranch. Took me about an hour or so.