2004 F150 Lariat 4x4:

For those of you that have replaced their transmission, on a scale of 1-10, what would you say the difficulty level is? I already did the full timing job, so I can't imagine the transmission will be too much worse other than the bulky-heavy part and working underneath.

I have a quotes from a few local shops and I'm trying to determine which is the best route to go. I have the tools and knowledge, but physically I'm not so sure I can do it. Honestly - I probably shouldn't, but I wanted to throw this question out there.

I've done transmission jobs back in high school on my hot rods, but never on a truck like our F150's. I've watched a few YouTube vids but those were done in a pro shop. Looks like the most difficult part is the upper bolts but those are always a b*stard. There was also mention of removing the exhaust but the videos I watched didn't have to.

Other question: What is the average cost for labor on this job? I also wonder how the warranty works if I install it myself. I know some warranties get kinda picky on this.

Like many of you on here, I've always worked on all my cars and trucks so I guess I'm kinda nervous having someone else do it. I have no idea who to trust. I suppose everyone reaches a point in their life they have no choice but to pass the torch.

Thanks,

 

I just made this same statement in another thread.
"You need to get the truck way up in the air to get the transmission to clear the frame to get it out from underneath the truck, WAY UP. My guess is 24" clearance needed, its the height of the bellhousing plus the trans jack height."
Frame cross member in my truck did not want to come out after all the bolts were removed. Probably took thirty minutes of prying to get it out but this may be specific to my truck since I am pretty sure it had been wrecked prior to my purchase. I did not have much of a problem getting the frame cross member back in using floor jacks. Upper bolts are just a pain but rear of trans has to be lowered to make access easier. If you do this, or even if you have it done, replace any broken exhaust manifold bolts while you are down there. Make sure you check fluid level in transfer case after the trans is reinstalled as it tends to leak out during trans removal.

Make sure you replace like for like 4R75E as 4R75W will not work.

 

I was wondering about the height. I remember that issue on my old hot rods. All I had then were blocks and jacks.. and invincibility as a youth.. lol. I've done a few under the car and some pulling the entire engine/trans. That's the ultimate way to go if you can but not happening with our kind of trucks.

Best I can really do on my own is standard-issue car ramps which I'm not sure if those would be tall enough. Will have to do some measuring and head scratching.

Thanks for the reply! It all helps in the decision.

 

I used 8x8 pressure treated scraps from a commercial fence builder. I saw them building a fence and asked for the scraps and I got about 12 that were around 20" long. Very very useful.

 

I did mine 3 years ago. Clearance is the key and having a transmission jack was very helpful. The bolts on the top are tedious to get out but you can get them. Lots of extensions for the harder to reach bolts. Also, remember to keep the brackets that hold the torque converter in place until it’s time to remove them. That keeps the converter from slipping out. Also, it’s not a bad idea to replace your trans cooler while you are going. I’m trying to remember all the things I did that might help you. I’ll post them if more come to mind or just ask. It might jog my memory

Difficulty level; I’d give it 7/8. It’s not everyday easy unless that’s how you make your living and if you have already completed the timing job, you have the skill to do it

 

i also did this a few years ago (2004 stx 4x2). i am just an amateur hobbyist, but i was able to do it myself with no lift or power tools. i would say it was pretty difficult, but to me it's better than bringing it somewhere, plus you get the satisfaction of accomplishing it yourself.

here is the thread i made. i removed both the engine and the transmission. i put cylinder heads on the engine and brought the trans to a shop to have rebuilt.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/2004-st...efresh-539967/

as mentioned, getting the vehicle high enough is a challenge. i rented a suitable transmission jack for reinstall. i removed the muffler/tailpipe so that i could sneak it in at the high point of the frame just before the rear axle (gas tank is on the other side and it was easier to remove the muffler). other than that, if you are mechanically inclined it is very doable. even though the factory service manual says to leave the cats alone, i had to remove pretty much the entire exhaust doing it on my back.

best of luck with it! here are a couple of transmission-related pics.

 

Thank you for the great information! Very helpful. The jack you used is the one I was looking at getting from our local Harbor Freight. I only need to use it twice, so I'd think it would last that long and save my back. In the meantime I'm trying to find one to rent or borrow if I decide to do this job myself.

I really only have 2 concerns: Getting the trans out and back in (aligning the torque convertor is always fun too). And yes, height is the key. I have to measure my car ramps and see if they are high enough. I remember having to jack my old hot-rod way up too. It had a C4 that I eventually switched to a C6. I also did a C6 in my old 1976 F150, but I sorta cheated and pulled the engine and trans at the same time. That's ultimately the easiest way (imo), but no-can-do with our new trucks.

Other than the obvious electronic doo-dads and gizmos, does anyone know if there's a huge difference between these 4R75E and old-school C4/C6? The guts sorta look the same? Kinda wondering if I can buy a master kit and just rebuild it myself? Might not be cost effective, so just a guess.

If you're just "taking out bad wood and replacing with good wood"... I'd think rebuilding it yourself shouldn't be that big of an issue. Unless there's special tooling you need. I have no idea. Back in the day, the main tool I was taught to use was a plain 'ol waxed playing card! Yep. Worked great to work the piston/seals into the drums. My teacher (Uncle) had neat little tricks like that. He also had a master book and notes on just about every shift-kit tweak you could imagine. Ahh.. the good 'ol days.

Thanks again... I'm almost ready to do this myself. I figure I can save at least $1500 right off the get-go if I DIY. I was quoted approx. $5000 for a shop to do it.

 

Take a look at this video series. Its a step by step guide to 4R75W and 4R75E rebuild.
Note: Most rebuild kits only mention 4R70W or 4R75W but these kits also apply to 4R70E and 4R75E transmissions as the rebuild kits do not contain the components that are different between the W and E and are generally not replaced unless damaged.

 

^ i always liked that guy's videos.

he's like the "bob ross" of transmission rebuilding lol