techrep

iTrader: (1)

guess you didn' read all his post... he already replaced that.

Restof150s

HEY! Virginia Beach!^ cool to see someone so close!

anyway, I would double and triple check fuel pressure, I would also check base oil pressure with a mechanical gauge. At least you'll know the main vitals of the engine. Ive had a throttle body fail on mine and act just like yours. BUT mine threw codes.

My question is, dose it turn over really really fast? does it sound like it has compression?

I would also like to know if the theft light is flashing, I doubt it seeing as how the injectors are getting power and the coil packs are firing (going by your info on the first post)

Restof150s

Ohh do you have any aftermarket alarms or anything that could cut power to anything?

Ford Diagnostic procedure for this is listed like this:

add on anti theft (my reason for my question above)

Fuel delivery and ignition (coil packs, fuel injectors, fuel pump pressure, which you checked most of)

Air intake system (blockages, IAC (which you don't have, your throttle body serves as an IAC thanks to Fly By wire)

Exhaust system (clogged cats can cause a cut off and no start, if they are clogged enough)

Base engine (basically means timing, loss of compression)

If you follow this list you "should" find something wrong

There is also a listing for "intermittent causes" but yours as of now isn't intermittent so no need at worrying about checking that stuff just yet.

Mike_KC

I have replaced the fuel modulator above the spare tire, as well as the actual fuel pump and filter.

No aftermarket anything, except my tablet holder.....

Cylinder one has 142psi of compression, when it cranks it feels like it has compression, it does not free spin like if there are no plugs.

How can I test of the cats are plugged up?

I have spark at the coils and fuel pressure at the rails, (I popped off the disconnect and fuel pressure reads about 45psi, my fittings are not exactly corrent).

With fuel, spark, and compression, and no codes, I am not sure what where to go from here.

Ideas and suggestions still needed.

Thanks,
Mike

vintageman

I didn't see a response to the red blinking light question, is it blinking like normal? Crank with no start with all you have replaced sounds like VATS to me. Do you have another key that you can try, don't know if that would really help if the VATS went down on you but, who knows at this point. Good luck and keep us up to date on any findings.
Tom

Mike_KC

My bad, I forgot. The alarm light blinks about once per second, when I turn the key to run it goes solid for maybe a second and then it goes out. It stays out while I am cranking. Once I turn the key off it goes back to the once per second flash.

I have tried using all three keys I have with no difference.

vintageman

Do you have a programmer that can maybe set your timing up just a little, on my Edge, I can go in increments of 25 or 50 degrees, not sure if that will help but you did mention that it sounds like your old car that you would have to turn the distributer. If advancing the timing works, you know that your timing jumped some, just make sure that you use a higher octane of gas if you hear any pinging and get it fixed as soon as you can. I do not know if our trucks have a pick-up mocule or not, I had one go out on an older ford and that issue sounds just like yours, I replaced the fuel pump and everything and after sinking all that money found out it was a $20 part.

Mike_KC

I don't have a programmer.

But I do have $1200 worth of parts on the way to rebuild the entire timing set, phasers, vct's, and oil pump.

Has anyone seen a good how to for the oil pump replacement, I know the pump is on the crank, but just would like to find pics showing the pickup tube and anything else.

I will update as I go, planning on doing it this weekend 4/11 - 4/12.

Mike

sillydoc

Before you tear the engine down unbolt your exhaust on both sides at the manifolds or pull the front O2 sensors and try starting it. Have seen these trucks not run from plugged exhaust.

Mike_KC

I did unplug the sensors early on and it didn't help.

I have pulled the plugs and tested the compression, strong on bank 1 almost non existent on bank 2. Couldn't get actual readings because I did not have the correct tapered adapter to get into the plug threads, I just held the tapered rubber adapter over the hole.