2004 Screw will not start - Looking for advice and direction
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2004 Screw will not start - Looking for advice and direction
I have been a lurker for years just reading, but now I need some advice.
My 04 Screw 5.4L just rolled 200K miles a couple of weeks ago. I am the second owner (in 2007), I have always tried to take good care of my truck. Oil changes between 3-5K miles (Valvoline 5W20), filters, etc. Changed plugs shortly after getting the truck and then again about 150K miles. I do 75% of my own work and the other 25% I have a certified mechanic that does it at his house after hours.
Was driving on the interstate and truck just shut off, like you turned the key off. It will still crank, but never actually fires up and no codes. It sounds like my old car would when the distributor needed to be turned about an 1/8 of a turn.
Since this happened I have done the following:
Replaced: fuel filter, fuel pump driver module, fuel pump
Cleaned: MAF, air filter
I have also tested: 1.)the fuel injectors - they are getting strong signal, 2.) tested #1 and #2 COP for spark - verified, 3.) sprayed starter fluid in the engine and it did hit but would not stay running, 4.) fuel pressure in the rail is about 45psi.
Could this type of engine design just "jump" time or be be that far out of time or am I going down the wrong path trying to trouble shoot? Again, no noise, bang, or anything when it quit, and in had been running for 35 miles before I made a stop and then got back on the interstate.
Other than a couple of coils, the only thing I have ever replaced was the O2 sensors last year.
I was planning to replace the front end timing and phasers later this summer for good measure by following s_vares thread https://www.f150forum.com/f4/final-repair-guide-5-4-cam-phaser-tick-knock-sound-141266/
and have not decided whether to do the oil pump at the same time.
Any advice or direction is appreciated. I don't have thousands to take to dealer (not a dealer fan) and I am probably just not searching or thinking on the right path.
Thanks,
Mike
My 04 Screw 5.4L just rolled 200K miles a couple of weeks ago. I am the second owner (in 2007), I have always tried to take good care of my truck. Oil changes between 3-5K miles (Valvoline 5W20), filters, etc. Changed plugs shortly after getting the truck and then again about 150K miles. I do 75% of my own work and the other 25% I have a certified mechanic that does it at his house after hours.
Was driving on the interstate and truck just shut off, like you turned the key off. It will still crank, but never actually fires up and no codes. It sounds like my old car would when the distributor needed to be turned about an 1/8 of a turn.
Since this happened I have done the following:
Replaced: fuel filter, fuel pump driver module, fuel pump
Cleaned: MAF, air filter
I have also tested: 1.)the fuel injectors - they are getting strong signal, 2.) tested #1 and #2 COP for spark - verified, 3.) sprayed starter fluid in the engine and it did hit but would not stay running, 4.) fuel pressure in the rail is about 45psi.
Could this type of engine design just "jump" time or be be that far out of time or am I going down the wrong path trying to trouble shoot? Again, no noise, bang, or anything when it quit, and in had been running for 35 miles before I made a stop and then got back on the interstate.
Other than a couple of coils, the only thing I have ever replaced was the O2 sensors last year.
I was planning to replace the front end timing and phasers later this summer for good measure by following s_vares thread https://www.f150forum.com/f4/final-repair-guide-5-4-cam-phaser-tick-knock-sound-141266/
and have not decided whether to do the oil pump at the same time.
Any advice or direction is appreciated. I don't have thousands to take to dealer (not a dealer fan) and I am probably just not searching or thinking on the right path.
Thanks,
Mike
#2
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I'd start checking fuses and relays. I bet its just something as stupid as that.
Maybe have the battery tested as well?
My issues usually seem to be electrical related when it just dies like that. Weird that it isn't throwing codes though.
Maybe have the battery tested as well?
My issues usually seem to be electrical related when it just dies like that. Weird that it isn't throwing codes though.
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Okay, today after work I will check fuses and relays, fuel inertia shutoff. Remove and clean TB.
It has a new battery and the TPS shows that is working according to reading the computer in live mode.
I will report back once these are completed.
Mike
It has a new battery and the TPS shows that is working according to reading the computer in live mode.
I will report back once these are completed.
Mike
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Fuses all checked out. Fuel inertia not tripped. Noid light shows injectors working, spark at the coils.
I did not try to start the truck before doing all of this, once I finished it did the same as before when trying to start. It will fire and almost start the first time I crank it, then anytime after that it doesn't seem like it is firing unless I spray starter fluid in the TB.
Here is a pic before cleaning the TB:
TB Pic1
Still looking for a reason..... all ideas welcome.
I did not try to start the truck before doing all of this, once I finished it did the same as before when trying to start. It will fire and almost start the first time I crank it, then anytime after that it doesn't seem like it is firing unless I spray starter fluid in the TB.
Here is a pic before cleaning the TB:
TB Pic1
Still looking for a reason..... all ideas welcome.
#6
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I was just doing some searching... did you check to see if the fuel pump shut off had activated itself? it's on the footwell fuse panel.
You said you replaced the pump already, and it shows pressure, but can you hear it prime when you turn the key to the on position?
You said you replaced the pump already, and it shows pressure, but can you hear it prime when you turn the key to the on position?
Last edited by joeisalsocool; 04-01-2015 at 01:23 PM.
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alright hope youre thin or have access to a lift, but squeeze under the rear of the truck. just forward of the spare tire there is a cross member and mounted to it is the fuel pump driver module. the module is made of aluminum and is bolted directly to the steel crossmember.
due to dissimilar metals there is galvanic corrosion. the aluminum case oxidizes swells and flakes. this lifts and cracks the plastic cover allowing moisture dirt and salt into the circuitry.
there is also a ground wire bolted right next to it.
this is a common issue with trucks above the rust belt and any in high humidity/moisture areas. there is a tsb about the issue i think and later trucks and replacements came with rubber spacers
due to dissimilar metals there is galvanic corrosion. the aluminum case oxidizes swells and flakes. this lifts and cracks the plastic cover allowing moisture dirt and salt into the circuitry.
there is also a ground wire bolted right next to it.
this is a common issue with trucks above the rust belt and any in high humidity/moisture areas. there is a tsb about the issue i think and later trucks and replacements came with rubber spacers