You need to make sure the gauges you are using are working correctly. I have had some I rented from o Reilly's that were crappy and didn't work of the hoses were cranked on too tight the o rings in the gauges hoses blocked off the gauge passage.

but assuming they are working correctly you should see somewhere around 90-110 psi on both high and low sides with the engine turned off. In this state both sides should be equalized.

With the engine running and compressor engaged and turning you should see around 200 psi high side and 30-40 ballpark on the low side.
It is a closed system, the two "sides" are not separated so you don't need to worry about one side contaminating the other.
The compressor will turn off if the low side goes below around 20 psi, so if you're a bit low on refrigerant it usually cycles on an off every 5 seconds or so and you will hear the compressor clutch kicking on and and off this will be obvious. It will kick on once the low side pressure gets up to 45-50 psi then the compressor will run for a few seconds the low side pressure will quickly drop down and when it hits 20 psi the compressor shuts off. Then the low side pressure will climb back to 45 psi, compressor kicks on and the cycle repeats.
So.. you have to have enough in the system for the compressor to stay engaged. If you are at this point and your compressor stays engaged and you only have 130psi on the high side that's not enough. You should be closer to 200 at least. And it should hold steady. Same with the low side, it should hold steady at 30ish psi. All the above pressures vary depending on temperature and humidity outside, but should sit fairly steady while you're watching it run.

 

Here is a site that does a great job of explaining the readings on the gauges.


https://www.vehicleairconservices.co...gauge_readings

 

Okay, now I've backed off and reading again. I don't believe I've used these gauges correctly..

I'm now shutting down both valves on the manifold and the lines (near the connections). Once hooked up, I open both valves near the connections believing that opens the gauge for a reading. Both valves at the manifold are still closed.

I read 10+psi on the low side.. I use the gauge on the 134a injector I show 30psi. I'm still not doing something right...

 

Lots of good videos on YouTube. Head over there and they will show you exactly how to do it.

 

Been... Done... Anyone you prefer I watch?

 

I dont see anything about the system being leak tested, especially the evap coil?

 

Believe that to be part of the system the shop did when recharging. They had stated the cost if they found a leak and had to stop the recharge.

 

Ericthecarguy has some pretty informative videos on the subject.

 

Update: I did manage to get the shop to re-do the charge and this time write down some info. Well the writing part didn't happen, but this is where I'm at.

I did lose some 134a, probably over at my cousins as we played with it. They vacuum tested and no leaks shown. Back up to spec on 134a.

At idle in the yard runs so I can make ice. Cycles on/off and is great! Head out on the road, depending if byway or highway how quick it will go to heat (compressor probably not turning). That puts me at the one item suggested I have not done is check the gap on the clutch. Happens tomorrow after I buy some feeler gauges (mine are rusted and junk). I eyeball it and it looks wider than .023.. tomorrow I find out how good these old eyes are..

I assume, if the gap is just wide enough it can draw in at low rpm and not at high?

Do I need a puller for this?

 

Does it go to actual heat or does it go to ambient plus a little. Different problems.

Excessive clutch gap will cause the clutch to drop out as the clutch components heat soak. Works fine up until then.

No puller needed. Once the bolt is removed, it's just a matter of carefully prying the hub off.