What to look for in 2012 5.0?
#21
Senior Member
#22
FORD lifer
I guess I should have said probable instead of inevitable.
Judging by my experiences, and all the problems I’ve heard about, the OEM racks had a lot of flaws.
If there are hundreds of people here discussing replacements, I’m betting there are tens of thousands.
How often did we have to change power steering pumps? Rarely, and they were less than $100 bucks.
Since the dealers are $1500+, if you are buying a 11-13 F150 I’d check the function out thoroughly before I made the deal.
IMO these should have been recalled.
Judging by my experiences, and all the problems I’ve heard about, the OEM racks had a lot of flaws.
If there are hundreds of people here discussing replacements, I’m betting there are tens of thousands.
How often did we have to change power steering pumps? Rarely, and they were less than $100 bucks.
Since the dealers are $1500+, if you are buying a 11-13 F150 I’d check the function out thoroughly before I made the deal.
IMO these should have been recalled.
#23
Senior Member
Thanks man I’ll definitely look into that also.
Anyone else have have any good info for me? I’m semi-new to gas trucks again, let alone fords. I did ask a friend who runs his own mechanic shop and he hasn’t heard issues with 12’s. Not to say he’s 100% right, but he hasn’t encountered them.
#24
Thanks for all the replies guys. Even though I'm not the one who posted it, I'm glad others are finding use from the information here.
I pulled my fuse 27 and it was fine, however, I'm not taking chances when I had the parts already at home. Got it changed to fuse 70 last night and everything is good to go!
I've done some searching and have found controversy over what weight oil to use. I'm going to change mine, even though the oil life says 60% just so I have peace of mind knowing it's been done and not something the dealer just reset. Would you go with the 5-20 Ford has put in or 5-30? Both synthetic of course.
I pulled my fuse 27 and it was fine, however, I'm not taking chances when I had the parts already at home. Got it changed to fuse 70 last night and everything is good to go!
I've done some searching and have found controversy over what weight oil to use. I'm going to change mine, even though the oil life says 60% just so I have peace of mind knowing it's been done and not something the dealer just reset. Would you go with the 5-20 Ford has put in or 5-30? Both synthetic of course.
#25
Senior Member
Mine doesn't use oil. It's suddenly leaking oil, but I'll look into that this week.
#26
Thanks for all the replies guys. Even though I'm not the one who posted it, I'm glad others are finding use from the information here.
I pulled my fuse 27 and it was fine, however, I'm not taking chances when I had the parts already at home. Got it changed to fuse 70 last night and everything is good to go!
I've done some searching and have found controversy over what weight oil to use. I'm going to change mine, even though the oil life says 60% just so I have peace of mind knowing it's been done and not something the dealer just reset. Would you go with the 5-20 Ford has put in or 5-30? Both synthetic of course.
I pulled my fuse 27 and it was fine, however, I'm not taking chances when I had the parts already at home. Got it changed to fuse 70 last night and everything is good to go!
I've done some searching and have found controversy over what weight oil to use. I'm going to change mine, even though the oil life says 60% just so I have peace of mind knowing it's been done and not something the dealer just reset. Would you go with the 5-20 Ford has put in or 5-30? Both synthetic of course.
Part of the reason manufactures have been driven to lower viscosity oils is fuel economy. High viscosity oils = high shear = lower fuel economy.
These trucks run in -30F to 110F. At the low temps oils thicken and don't flow worth a crap potentially starving the motor of oil causing damage. So low temps need low viscosity oils.
When warmed up the higher viscosity oils generally offer more protection due to maintaining a larger oil wedge between the bearings and journals.
So for me, I don't care about the slightly decreased fuel mileage and as far as trying to pump 5-30 when it's cold, I live in Tampa.
#27
Senior Member
You realize that the "5" in those two oils is the cold viscosity, and therefore they are the same when starting a cold engine at -10deg.
#28
Oil weight is a term used to describe the viscosity of an oil, which means how well it flows at a specific temperature. The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) assigns a viscosity number, or weight, to oil based on its flow at 210 degrees F, which is roughly the standard operating temperature for most motors. The higher the number, the thicker or slower flowing it is, which changes the nature of how it coats internal engine components and protects against heat and friction. This means a 30 weight oil flows more quickly than 50 weight oil, but doesn’t offer quite the same level of protection at higher operating temperatures or in stressful conditions.
We use multigrade oils, and they are unique in that they have been engineered to offer not just one, but two weights.
The “w” stands for winter and indicates that the lubricant in question has a different viscosity, or different flow characteristics, based on temperature. For example, a 5w30 oil weight rating means that on cold start-up, even at subzero temperatures, the oil flows like a 5 weight oil. However, once warmed up to 210 degrees F, it functions as a 30 weight oil. This is accomplished through the inclusion of unique additives in the mixture.
#29
Senior Member
IMHO, that's too much. In 2013, I paid $24K (after trade in, $27.8K without) for my 2013 F150 5.0L XLT 4WD. Additionally, I believe some of the 5.0's in the 2011-2012 model years deal with the incorrectly shaped #6 cylinder (correct me if I'm wrong, folkz). Were it me, I would set a minimum 2013 year, whether it be Ecoboost or 5.0. (Not sure the V6 or 6.2L had any issues in any year.)
I've ranted about it many times on here as I'm sure some people remember, but it isn't the end of the world. I bought the truck with 47k on it and have put 30k extremely hard, tuned miles on it. Engine has a slight knock when warm and at an idle but with my exhaust I have to really listen for it. I've forgotten about it within the past year. I get great MPGs when I'm not beating on it and engine is extremely strong and smooth. Smokes my tires in second gear if I gun it, and that's not even running 93 premium with the race tune. So I wouldn't worry too much if you end up with one that has the oblong cylinder. Obviously avoid it, but don't worry too much about it. Regular maintenance and it should be good.
#30
Senior Member
Also check when and where the truck was built. If it was in Dearborn between Feb 11 2011 to Sept 8 2012, or Kansas City from April 5 2011 to June 13, 2012, there's a recall on the lead frame. Truck can suddenly downshift to first on the highway, potentially causing an accident. Happened to me once or twice and it's not fun.