2013 King Ranch F-150 Had trouble starting. Checked alternator and it is OK. Changed the original battery two days ago for a new 750 cold crank. Seemed to solve the problem. However, today, same situation. Started it five times with no problem. Then, on the sixth attempt, no start. Had it towed 43 miles. Suggestions? Fuel pump? Fuel Filter?

 

You need to find out if it has any fuel pressure.

 

Look under fuse 27, see if it's melted.

 

I have a 2014 Ford F-150,5.0 does not start,, am getting code P0627 Fuel Pump Circuit A Open,,, bought a Fuel Pump Fuse jumper for Fuse 27 from dealer (Ebay has them, as does Amazon), bought a new relay #8 in the same underhood fuse box.. Now tomorrow am going to get a Fuel Pump Driver Module to replace the one on the crossmember frame rail by the spare tire. Seems if its one thing, its probably the other... Will let you know on what it is.. b/c I dread paying the dealer to repair things.

 

Jumper? Got a link?

 

My son in law tracked my no start problem to the fuel pump module. Part will be in on Monday. Hopefully, I will be back on the road.

 

 

My problem after looking over countless causes, effects, etc.,... I'll begin from the beginning I tried to start it no start (2014 Ford F-150 STX Supercab 5.0), I replaced the number 27 fuse with the above its like $40 at Ford dealer, $25 on Ebay or Amazon nothing more than cheap stuff u can fab $7 yourself if an electronics shop that carries that is there, otherwise Ebay or Amazon for $20 or so,,, I also replaced relay #8 a cube looking relay in the same underhood box bc its about $7 or less,,, replacing fuse 27 on the factory fuse jumper locates it in slot 70 according to the directions supplied from Ford. (The sob of that cheap kit but from what I hear if you don't it will later bite you bad,, follow the directions watch youtube,,, youtube may not be thorough on step by step but it is on frustration,,, lol) The PCB; printed circuit board or pie of cant board to get apart is that,,, whatever thing you wanna call that we will,, seems easy on a relocation of Fuse 27 to socket 70 till you try taking the whole cra-p apart doing it,,, its doable but you might not be nice),,, the number 8 Relay was a simple change very easy. But the new new 27 relocated to 70 will use what number 8 has pretty much..... none of those fixes fixed my pickup,, no CHECK ENGINE light at all. I bought a scanner Scotty Wilmer recommends scanned look through Permanent Codes,, saw P0627. The last thing I didn't replace that was low cost was FPDM, fuel pump relay module part number I got from Advance Auto Parts is a Dorman 601-225 looks same as factory, since I owned it since new.... Not the metal base plate one,,, I guess in the fuel supply electronics is Fuse 27 or relay 8 doesn't go out, This will,,, actually other than relay 8, this is on you frame crossmember if you gymnastic hands and fingers with out dropping your spare tire you can do,,, its easier to drop down the spare tire push it over, go to it and in a few mins its out and a few mins more than removing it its in... The good thing there's a weak link in the fuel electrical circuit and its not impossible to fix just its a pain not knowing where to go. Fuse 27 is a weak link, Relay 8, so is this Fuel Pump Driver Module...

 

Keep in mind a lot of people behind Parts Counters at dealerships, have not much experience in auto parts, or repairing them,, that golden age I guess left awhile ago... So the EL3Z,, etc.,. part number works that part gives you the Fuel Pump Jumper Relay which is just a terminal male end into socket to relocate it to Terminal 70 (Terminal 27 gets cut and bypassed and heat shrink tubing, wired to terminal 70) web search to verify the Dorman menitoned above looks exact as factory and is easily available at auto parts stores I mentioned above. I hope my post helps,,, the #27 relocation to number 70 let me know,, lol... it's a not fun

 

Ok, just making sure we all understand. Nobody else calls it jumper, so wasn't sure.