gDMJoe

It's only WRONG! if you slather the studs with it. A light coat macht nichts.

*Based upon 50+ years of experience in the rust belt.
.

Cpt.America

1. Anti-Sieze isn't supposed to go on your wheel lug nuts, that's not what it is used for. It's used to separate two dissimilar metals that have a tendency to cold weld. This isn't something your stainless nuts and bolts on your hub needs. They just need to be clean.

2. Any rotation is better than none, but FYI, discount tire recommends pulling both front tires directly to the the rear on the same side, and bringing the rears to the front but on the opposite side

So for example,

12
34

becomes

43
12

gDMJoe

May be not "anti-sieze", however, for anti-seize ..... Excerpted from the Anti-Seize web site (highlighted pertinent other considerations)...Again ..... Based upon 50+ years of experience.

EDIT: FYI example ... The new axles that were provided in a recall kit (2003 Crown Victoria) were pre-lub'ed by FoMoCo with anti-seize on the all of the axle lugs.
.

Cpt.America

The problem you then encounter, is the potentially very different clamping forces between a dry nut/bolt vrs. one torqued with the lubrication properties of anti-cease. It could be VERY easy to accidentally double your clamping force, breaking a stud or damaging a wheel.

So when you torque your lugs down, what % are you reducing your torque to keep the proper amount of clamping force on the wheel?

gDMJoe

0(zero)%

As noted previously ..... "A light coat macht nichts."

45+ vehicles. 50+ years. ???? millions of miles. 0(zero) failures. 0(zero) issues. *Doesn't include the thousands of vehicles that were serviced and not owned by me.
.

morehousej

lol, your 50+ years of experiance means nothing in this case Sir.Just because you had no issues doesn't mean it wasn't wrong.
50 years ago when you learned, this was the norm because people were unedjucated in these things, since then, much study and testing have been done and determined that it's impossible to properly torque a lug that has lube. Sure you can lube it and spin the nut on, torque it with a torque wrench or a a torque stick and it will click.... but if tested, it will not actually be at actual torque you set it at, also, it stands a much greater chance of either backing off or the stud failing.

In my younger days, I worked in a major tire shop. we recieved a training course from Michelin/BFG/Uniroyal, a week later, a course from Bridgestone/Firestone, later on, one from General/Continental, and one from Kuhmo/Hankook. every single course included the basics of hot to install and balance, how to properly inspect a flat, and patch, never plug, Rotations, and mounting and Torquing properly. Every single class states the same, never lube a wheel stud.
Funny that 4 major Tire companies that compete against each other in business all give pretty much the same "basics" course. and all state the same info about no lube during Torque, but yet, one person here in the forum knows way more than what the engineers hired by these companies have determined and signed off on.

Cpt.America

The big problem are the younger less experienced guys that come here, read this guy's recommendation, go home, try it themselves, and end up cracking a wheel or snapping off a stud.

There are people that never use jackstands that have never had their jack fail either, but that isn't a good reason to come here and recommend it.

gDMJoe

May be (?) so, however, having received an OEM, factory part (in the form of an axle fix kit for 2003 Crown Victorias) with anti-seize pre-installed on all of the axle studs, I take some solace in what has been my practice.

Just because there's 50+ years of experience doesn't mean that after (say) 49 years there hasn't been further learning.

And as for "backing off or stud failing" ... Not saying it couldn't happen, however, has never been within my experiences.

And yet ... The vehicle manufacturer pre-applies lube on a part that's made to their specifications and is THE part that the "4 major tire companies" don't provide.

And for all the blathering ... I never stated it was a recommendation, so take it as a - Your experience may vary..

Cpt.America

That is OEM, which means they use studs and a wheel, that combined with a lubed stud, at a certain torque on the lugs, provides a determined amount of clamping force on the wheel. They set and/or recommend a certain torque to be used WITH a lubed stud.

Your truck is different. They say to torque to 150 pounds, on DRY studs. That means to get the same clamping force with lubed studs, you need to go to 100, or 120, or something... (im not sure what percentage drop you need to use).

My point is, you CAN use lubed threads, but your applied torque needs to be change to match the required clamping force. Not changing your torque is asking for serious problems.

And it's irresponsible to come onto a forum where people come looking for help, and recommend something so dangerous. A cracked wheel can be seriously dangerous. And something tells me no amount of explaining is going to get you to understand.

splashgtp

I torque all my nuts by degrees, I get the proper torque no matter if its dry or lubed.