Ok so dealership replaced "timing" components at about 165k miles. Truck at 264k miles now heard a disturbing rattle, dealership said phasers. Quote was ridiculous so I'm doing it.
Open the timing cover and the drivers side tension guide is missing only the round part around the locator pin is there.
The rest is either in pieces at the bottom of the cover, in the oil pan or in teeny tiny lil bits in the entire oil system.

So, already replacing every timing component, now add to that, dropping cleaning the oil pan, replacing the pickup, screen, oil pump, and turbo screens. My engine is currently sitting with no front end, and no oil pan. What else, if anything can anyone recommend to remediate the tiny floaty bits of plastics that are undoubtedly still in the passages.
The best I have come up with is wipe and clean everything I can touch with degreasers and cloths and then pour copious amounts of oil across the cams and let gravity flow it out the bottom since the pan is off.
Anyone have a product suggestion for something else? Something made for this fiasco of a fix right before it was headed to critical fail?

As a note the timing while loose doesn't seemed to have jumped, at least no more than 1-2 links so valve damage and hugely problematic things it seems I was lucky enough to avoid.

 

Sounds like you have the right idea, Also change the oil soon after its all back together, that would be a good filter to cut open and see what you get.

 

you could also rig up a garden sprayer, hooked up to where the oil pressure sending unit would be and pump oil through it that way. That's what I used to prime my 4.6 when it sat for a while after being built.

basically just need to get the sprayer, some clear hose, some clamps and a barbed to npt fitting (i assume it's an npt fitting). Some people take it a step further incorporating an air compressor so they dont have to pump it up. Just remember that with NPT its tapered so don't over tighten, made that mistake.

 

for everyone's entertainment images of the now missing part and what bits made it into the oil pan, the largest parts remained in the cover and the smallest bits flowed through everything.

 

nightmare fuel.

 

ok hopefully this can be useful to someone in a similar situation, if it works.
Pan off, intake, valve covers, hard plastic air channels all degreased and scrubbed.
Large flows of brakecleen over the open facing of the front block
Air pressure blow out of all standing oil in the heads and passages removal of the turbo oil screens and clean around and just inside
A quart of clean oil poured across each head and cam and allowed to free flow out the bottom with no pan
Replace the filter
Full normal timing cleanup for seals and gaskets
All new seals and gaskets, all new timing chain, phasers, secondary chains, vvt solenoids, tracks and tensioners, HV oil pump, new pickup and screen, new cam sprocket, new turbo screens, basically everything.
Letting it sit to gravity drain anything brought down by clean oil for 24 hours with the turbo screens off and reassembly to begin tomorrow.
Hopefully next update is that it runs and I'm planning on a 1000 mi oil change and cut and view the filter.
Also a useful note if for any reason you need to pull the pan, about 90% of the hassle is removed when the front cover is off for timing.
And the turbo screens are really only accessible with the AC compressor unbolted but supported out of the way and the alternator the same and the transmission cooler line directly beside the drivers side turbo oil line has to be disconnected so there is fluid loss there too. If anyone wants images please request in the next 48 hours and I'll get them uploaded

 

Thank you for following up for us, its good information!

 

Pictures help. Thanks

 

pictures coming, before that a few new notes.
The turbo oil screens are press in pipes with an o ring, they press in by hand through a 12mm hex head female opening. The latest design DOES NOT USE this! the current parts appear to accept the press in as well as a threaded mating and they are installed vial 11/16 and 1 inch deepwells. I will be confirming this in the next post that they clear the milling on the block of the gen 1 ecoboost or no. Removal on passenger side requires dismounting and moving forward the AC compressor the rest is a standard bolt and a little force, drivers side required disconnecting transmission cooling line and draining, and even after that there is prying at the correct angle. I found this to be from the front of the engine bay with the alternator pulled off and forward.
Pics of everything useful that I can grab coming too.
Just to be clear to remove originals in 2011 gen 1, uncouple AC compressor and alternator, remove retaining bolts on both sides disconnect and pull pack trans cooler line on drivers side, pull tubes back and out (some minor flex bending required) 12 mm hex required to loosen and remove, new part is 11/16 socket drivers and 1 inch socket passenger (could have a better metric equiv) no torque specs available as far as I have found.
This info isn't available in video or search as far as I have found, can I get some kind of admin sticky or something? These "unknown screens" are a big part of turbo failures in all ecoboost engines.

 

This is simple, and i felt dumb. But worth putting out there. When replacing phasers and you're overthinking L/R becaused its reversed and your standing in front of it. If you setup your secondary chains and everything is lined up but the holes dont match but the marks on the front do, flip both the phasers 180 degrees you're looking at it upside down. Spent 10 mins looking thinking WTF did I get two RH intake phasers? No its just a different perspective.