liinxcore

so if your tweeters have a builtin cross over, they will be perfect. otherwise I would recommend a bass blocker just to delete/minimize low frequencies to the tweeters. you are right on the money though. they should run off the same channel as your front mids.

Brett2013fx4

I just went to a audio shop by me earluer and theyd charge me about 900 bucks for a box a 10" shallow mount rf sub and a rf 4 channel amp plus wiring and labor. Id do 2 10s but I want to keep the factory 8 just in case I dont wanna bump too hard

streetassasin

What mids and tweets? I'd run them active, if you are concerned with time alignment go with a 4ch for the mids and a 2ch for the tweets and get a processor, 360.3, ms-8 or if you want something cheap a minidsp but if not just get a solid 4 channel like a ppi p900.4 or if its in your budget a crecendo c1100.4 and run the tweets on ch 1&2 and all 4 mids on 3&4. Both of those amps are active capable so you wont need to mess with any external crossovers or inline caps or anything.

clpeller

KBZ, you haz PM.

sullyman

Or, you could buy a good Kenwood deck, get clean sound, 45 watts rms per channel with the ability to run a crossover at different hz settings to split the bass to the woofer (s), and everything above that to the doors, with multiple settings so you tune the system just right. With Excelons in the doors, a 1500 watt Kenwood mono amp pushing two SI shallow mount 10 s under the rear seat, and your system is as bumping as a married man with kids and gray hair need.

That's what will be in my truck after the Christmas bonus comes in.

clpeller

Did you get my PM? I'm not showing anything in my sent folder :\ I'll resend it if you haven't got it...

KBZ_F150

1 Pioneer AVH-X8500BHS or AVH-X5500BHS(don't know the diff)
1 Crescendo BC5500D Amp
2 Crescendo FT1 Supertweeters Black Series
4 Crescendo PWX 6.5" Mid Ranges
2 DC XL 10" Subwoofers (maybe carbon fiber cone)
1 Custom Forward Firing Ported Box for 10" Subs
1 Four Channel Amp(+150W rms x 4ch @ 4ohms) for the PWX's (small for under driver/passenger seat)
1 Two Channel Amp(+80W rms x 2ch @ 4 ohms) for the FT1's (small for under driver/passenger seat)

I was thinking the Rockford T800-4AD for the mids and T400-2 for the tweets.

If got this RTS-1 Audiophile Silk Dome Tweeter Kit would that eliminate the need for the 2channel amp by wiring the tweets and front mids to the same channels? Are the FT1 tweets the same thing if I get the FT1 crossovers? Can I power 80rms tweets with 150 rms mids on front left and front right channels then 150 rms mids for the rears? and what power range would i use?

I just want to be able to fully/properly power the tweets/mids/subs I've picked.

Any opinions on alts/batts/caps? What do you think about Rockford RFC10HB Cap? Worth it? Not necessary if I have more than one battery? Where would I put a second battery..?

Any opinions on the stuff I picked or other suggested parts is appreciated.

I live in canada if that helps or changes anything lol.

Thanks for the help.

KBZ_F150

I got yours, you got mine? I don't show sent messages either. I think I sent you three in total cause I wasn't sure, they all say different stuff though haha.

streetassasin

Thats a hell of a list, I love crescendo, I have 4 bc3500's, 8 pwx6's and 1 c1100.4 in my truck. Since you want small amps I'd get a ppi p900.4 for the mids and a ppi bk340.2 for the tweets and use the on board crossovers on both. But if you can fit it get a c1100.4 for the mids/highs, I have just 1 1100 on 8 pwx6's and 2 pyramid tw67 tweets and they keep up with my 157+db substage. For the electrical: xs d6500 under the hood, 2 xs xp3000's on in the back and a 350ish amp alt, either a singer, mechman or dc. Caps are a waste of money unless you are talking about a bank of supercaps

sullyman

In my bass head days, I ran capacitors. One per amp channel being used. It kept the headlights from dimming on big hits.