5.0 v8 2014.
coolant started boiling and smoking, had oil in it. Oil had coolant in it.
Quotes for repairs were- head gaskets for $2k, rebuild for $6k and full replace for $10k-$16k.
going to give replacing it myself a shot. have worked on cars, but nothing major like this.

Got the truck less than a mknth ago from a dealership that won't help me (no warranty, lesson learned). Im a landscaper so i cant wait for the repairs and I certainly cannot afford them.

Open to any advice!!!!!!!!

 

Welcome to the forum.

 

Welcome to the forum. I’ve replaced engines on several vehicles but not in an F150. So I don’t have any insider advice to give you. But any time I plan to do something I haven’t done before I always search the interwebs for any videos that might be out there.

 

Did you finance it? Is it insured with full coverage insurance? Sometimes you can get the bank or insurance company to help.

 

I’m putting my 13 back in right now. I left AC system in the truck just scooted the whole system forward. Had to unbolt but not remove battery tray to get enough clearance for that. You just have to detach a few wires in the passenger side and the whole wiring harness comes out nicely with the motor. There are a few wires for the alternator and starter connected to studs on the oil pan, so don’t forget those. In general, pull rad first and work front to back and you’ll have plenty of room. Feel free to follow up either way any specific questions. You’ve got a couple days left before it’s all together if you want pictures of anything

 

Was thinking about subscribing to ALLDATA DIY because I cant find an exact rundown of my exact truck, and am not sure what small details to look out for

 

not sure what I would even ask for pictures of!! I appreciate yall sharing here. Not a big internet guy so i didnt know if id get any replies or what

 

This may be helpful, I believe it is Alldata (there is another link on the site to newer makes - May be worth to check both
https://charm.li/

 

I swapped my 2012 v6 3.5L ecoboost (had to do it twice because I had a fuel 'washout' the first time because of PCM not firing cyl 1 at start up - so make sure all sparks are firing before starting up the new engine - i.e., no codes before swap started). Just now re-installing the rad and bumper after getting the engine in this second time. I also did not disconnect AC, just unbolted the compressor and bungy-corded it to the right frame, left the radiator/condenser attached but removed its frames and the bumper and supports so I could get my engine lift all the way in. I was able to lift the engine up and over the radiator as the radiator kind of slumped down on driver side.

Two ways to get better clearance for removal without full cab body lift if you are doing it from the ground (at least for the 3.5L), after setting the front of the frame on jack stands and removing front wheels: 1) disconnect the big front cab-to-frame bolts (likely need new ones after removal!) and the four (two each side) cab-to-frame nuts at the doors (leave the one big nut bolt alone!), leaving the rear cab bolts in place, then lift the front of the cab about 8" with your engine lift and rest it on blocks between it and the frame (did this the first time), or, easier (did this the second time), 2) drop the cross frame holding up the rear of the transmission with a jack about 8" resting the cross frame on jack stands, after unbolting the exhaust at the cat converter (bungy cord up the exhaust pipe and buy new bolts) and the front driveline from the front diff. This drops the rear of the engine enough to get to the top four bellhousing bolts that are a biotch to get out on the 3.5 (extremely close to the firewall), and why you would want to do either of these methods (unless you have very very skinny but long rubber arms and small articulated ratchets). Second method makes it harder (not impossible) to get the left motor mount back in (I broke my plastic coolant crossover inlet tube on the top rear of the engine raising the 3.5L engine up too high - but not a problem on the 5.0). Maybe none of this is necessary for the 5.0L if those top bellhousing bolts are readily accessible after removing the intake manifold!! Pretty much had to for the 3.5L!

Highly highly recommend downloading the 2011-2014_f-150_service_repair_workshop_manual ... (begin at section 303-01C for the 5.0L - but lots of in-vehicle engine repairs and engine installation before you get to engine 'removal' section on page 2,490!) the step-by-step instructions with full color-coded photos/diagrams though are incredible! Like written for a 3rd grader to follow! (which I needed). You'll need the Ford OEM engine lifting bracket 303-F047 for the 5.0L.

Good luck! Let us know how it goes!

 

Work carefully and don't put body parts in pinch points or under suspended loads.

If you get tired, aggravated, frustrated, walk away until you can figure things out.

Don't be afraid to ask for help, either here or a friend, when you need to.