I had this problem and thought the motor failed, I went to pull the lock up and it was really hard to pull up, after that the power locks move the lock thing up and down again, also it moves much "freer" since I unstuck it.

Weird how it happened, maybe something is starting to wear out in there.

 

I've had intermittent problems with both rear doors. Within warranty, I had one door lock mech replaced. I've had the door completely apart, and spraying WD40 in there does nothing. Sorry. The place where the lube needs to be sprayed is between the mechanism and the door skin (impossible to reach). The easiest fix is to mash down really hard on the plunger. Somehow that makes the lock guts move enough. Using the fob, I also sometimes hit the lock and unlock as I force it down. Stupid problem for such an expensive truck.

 

I have off the door cover with the door closed which cannot open on my 2010 XLT (passenger rear door) I tried everything to open it and no progress. I have come to the conclusion to try and take out the lock (break it) and buy a new one. Hoping the door will open when I break/get the lock out. Any suggestion how to get the lock out with the door closed?

 

Will the plunger not go up and down for the lock? If that's the problem, sometimes I have to force mine up or down to get it to work again. If it's unlocked, with the plunger up, and the door handle feels like it's not connected and it won't open the door...follow the rod under the plunger. There is a plastic clip that has come undone that connects the unlock rod to the one that actually opens the door. Cheap *** little clip that flips open. I super glued mine after the second time. Hope that helps.

 

You can pull off the cover strip thats against the inside of the window and loosen the upper screws on the door skin ( I think, been a while since I did this). Look down the rod that is the door lock plunger. Maybe a foot or so down, you'll see a green clip that looks like one of those quick connects for tapping trailer wires. Like a clamshell that's 3/4 inch square. It will be flipped open so the door handle isn't moving the rod to actually open the door. Takes a skinny arm to do it. I glued mine shut.

 

The Plunger does go up and down, sometimes when I open it with the key remote it goes up and then drops back down. I will try what you said about to see if that plunger was undone. Thanks for the advice

 

Ronnie Bush, I tried what you said but the rod that goes up and down goes in the side of the lock. Only I knew how to get the lock out without damaging the door so i will buy a new one and replace the damaged one. I hope also, when or if I can get out the lock, the door will open.

 

Hi I have a 2014 FX4. Last week all door locks stopped working. I was driving and when I put the truck in Park the Auto Unlock wouldn’t work, door switches and key fob all not able to open the door. I could even lift the locks manually. Was ready to break a window! I climbed into the back seat and was able to get the rear door open.
I checked the fuse (20a) and it was blown. I replaced it and it blew again as soon as the lock was presses.
I opens of the wiring Saturday and this is what I found. A white brown wire from the left rear lock actuator is meted. This is from the puller right under the floor. Has anyone seen this before?


Bare wire in places. Carries on under the cab carpet towards the center console.

 

Mine just started this. I’m going to look at the wiring plug from the door into the body first and go from there. I have a 2011 first issue with door locks

 

Both of my rear doors do this every now and then, when it happens I reach in through open window and pull the rod up. It's stiff as hell but not that bad. This is good for a month or so then have to repeat. This has been going on for about two years or so.