Raptor console mod in a 2011 Super Crew
09-07-2013, 10:43 PM
#21
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I've swapped out the center jumpseat-consoles on all of the '01 and newer Rangers I've had, for the Explorer full-length consoles. Always loved the extra storage space, and hated the jumpseats.
Here's how one of them turned out, in the '01 4x4 Edge I had...
Also swapped out the Edge black-grey 60/40 seats for a set of Edge red-black bucket seats. In this pic, the seats look a little dirtier than they really were. I was in the middle of scrubbing them clean right after I swapped them in.
This was a really comfortable interior. Ford never had a full-length console in the Rangers, but they should have. This was a pretty simple, and very functional mod.
Here's how one of them turned out, in the '01 4x4 Edge I had...
Also swapped out the Edge black-grey 60/40 seats for a set of Edge red-black bucket seats. In this pic, the seats look a little dirtier than they really were. I was in the middle of scrubbing them clean right after I swapped them in.
This was a really comfortable interior. Ford never had a full-length console in the Rangers, but they should have. This was a pretty simple, and very functional mod.
Last edited by Wanna Ride; 09-07-2013 at 10:48 PM.
10-06-2013, 05:12 PM
#23
Senior Member
- Depower the SRS . For additional information, refer to Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) Depowering and Repowering in the General Procedures portion of this section.
- Remove the 3 passenger air bag module bolts.
- NOTICE: Do not handle the passenger air bag module by grabbing the edges of the passenger air bag cover. Damage to the passenger air bag module may occur.
Partially remove the passenger air bag module from the instrument panel.
10-08-2013, 10:18 PM
#24
Senior Member
curious if you ever got around to completing this mod? would love to see some pictures if so. I saw mamonti's thread and was REALLY discouraged haha- seems almost impossible to complete (at my skill level). whats the outcome?!
10-09-2013, 10:35 PM
#25
Senior Member
Thread Starter
No need to be discouraged, it can be a pretty easy and straightforward project. And it's an upgrade that's well worth the time and effort spent. It's not 100% complete yet. I don't have much time for luxury projects, but here's some progress I made this past weekend.
A big thanks to mamonti for the tips on the airbag removal!
First thing I did, was remove the dash trim pieces. One on each side of the stereo/climate controls. There's no screws on the one on the left side, it just pops off with the clips. These are better quality plastic than similar dash pieces of previous years. As long as you don't ****** on them too hard, they'll easily come off if you lightly apply constant pressure, and just pull slightly.
Original dash panels removed...
Backside view of the dash panels, displaying the snap clips...
A big thanks to mamonti for the tips on the airbag removal!
First thing I did, was remove the dash trim pieces. One on each side of the stereo/climate controls. There's no screws on the one on the left side, it just pops off with the clips. These are better quality plastic than similar dash pieces of previous years. As long as you don't ****** on them too hard, they'll easily come off if you lightly apply constant pressure, and just pull slightly.
Original dash panels removed...
Backside view of the dash panels, displaying the snap clips...
Last edited by Wanna Ride; 10-09-2013 at 11:51 PM.
10-09-2013, 10:53 PM
#26
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The left side dash panel has several clips (displayed in the yellow circles in the picture above), and one screw that's slightly difficult to access. Not impossible, but you have to remove the airbag panel to get to it. Now don't let that scare you, it's relatively easy when you know what to do, and how to do it.
First thing's first - disconnect the NEGATIVE side of the truck's battery. I believe the battery terminal clamp takes a 7 mm socket. Be sure to wait about ten minutes after you disconnect the battery, to start the next step. You don't have to worry about losing any radio or phone settings, but you will have to reset the clock. We'll get to that later.
Next step - empty the glovebox, and lower the glove box door. With a flashlight, and looking into the glovebox hole and up under the bottom-side of the dash, you'll be able to see these three screws in the picture below...
Remove these three screws, and set them aside for later.
NOTE OF CAUTION: before removing the airbag panel, be sure it does not come in contact with or rests on the black plastic trim on the dash. This plastic is easily scratched, so be sure to lay a towel or something similar over that black trim.
After you remove these three screws, you can gently tug on the airbag assembly, to slightly remove it from the dash.
No need to completely remove it, but just far enough away from the dash to reveal the copper colored screw, in the picture below...
Once you remove this screw, set it aside and you can now remove the right side, of the right dash panel. After you disconnect all the snap clips from the dash, you can pull the dash panel a couple inches away from the dash, to allow enough room to disconnect the pigtail to the 12vdc power port. After that, you can set the old dash panel aside.
First thing's first - disconnect the NEGATIVE side of the truck's battery. I believe the battery terminal clamp takes a 7 mm socket. Be sure to wait about ten minutes after you disconnect the battery, to start the next step. You don't have to worry about losing any radio or phone settings, but you will have to reset the clock. We'll get to that later.
Next step - empty the glovebox, and lower the glove box door. With a flashlight, and looking into the glovebox hole and up under the bottom-side of the dash, you'll be able to see these three screws in the picture below...
Remove these three screws, and set them aside for later.
NOTE OF CAUTION: before removing the airbag panel, be sure it does not come in contact with or rests on the black plastic trim on the dash. This plastic is easily scratched, so be sure to lay a towel or something similar over that black trim.
After you remove these three screws, you can gently tug on the airbag assembly, to slightly remove it from the dash.
No need to completely remove it, but just far enough away from the dash to reveal the copper colored screw, in the picture below...
Once you remove this screw, set it aside and you can now remove the right side, of the right dash panel. After you disconnect all the snap clips from the dash, you can pull the dash panel a couple inches away from the dash, to allow enough room to disconnect the pigtail to the 12vdc power port. After that, you can set the old dash panel aside.
Last edited by Wanna Ride; 10-12-2013 at 10:51 AM.
10-09-2013, 11:09 PM
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
After you've removed both dash panels, you're now ready to install the new panels that mate to the front edge of the flow-through console. You'll have to take some measurements for the left side, of the left panel. You will have to trim this panel, because it's wider than the original, and needs to clear the right side of the steering column. Not rocket-science here, it's easy to figure out what needs to be done. I used a dremel tool, with a small cut-off wheel, and in the period of five minutes, it was done...
Next step is to transfer the vents from the original panels, over to the new panels. This is pretty straightforward, and doesn't require any special tools, or specific details. But be careful, because these are durable, but they are plastic. Once you get that done, it's as simple as snapping the new dash panels into the dash, and the console. Then, reinstall that copper-colored screw back into the right-side panel and dash.
After that's done, then you're ready to reinstall the airbag panel, into the dash. This too, is pretty straightforward. Just be patient, and be sure everything is lined up, and this will easily go back into the dash. But if something is not aligned, DO NOT shove on the airbag panel. Take a look back up under the dash, and be sure the alignment forks are properly aligned into the bracket. This is really pretty easy, so you shouldn't have any problems here. Once the airbag panel is seated back into the dash, then you're ready to reinstall the three screws back into the bracket.
After that, then you can go back to the truck battery, and reinstall the negative battery cable onto the terminal.
Next step is to transfer the vents from the original panels, over to the new panels. This is pretty straightforward, and doesn't require any special tools, or specific details. But be careful, because these are durable, but they are plastic. Once you get that done, it's as simple as snapping the new dash panels into the dash, and the console. Then, reinstall that copper-colored screw back into the right-side panel and dash.
After that's done, then you're ready to reinstall the airbag panel, into the dash. This too, is pretty straightforward. Just be patient, and be sure everything is lined up, and this will easily go back into the dash. But if something is not aligned, DO NOT shove on the airbag panel. Take a look back up under the dash, and be sure the alignment forks are properly aligned into the bracket. This is really pretty easy, so you shouldn't have any problems here. Once the airbag panel is seated back into the dash, then you're ready to reinstall the three screws back into the bracket.
After that, then you can go back to the truck battery, and reinstall the negative battery cable onto the terminal.
10-09-2013, 11:27 PM
#28
Senior Member
Thread Starter
After reinstalling the airbag panel, and attaching all three screws that hold it in place, you can reconnect your NEGATIVE battery terminal. Once that's done, then you can also rest your dash clock.
At this time, your console and dash should look something like this...
While I had the dash apart, I took the time to make a bracket that fits inside the useless pocket on the right side dash panel, for my GPS. I used a couple 10-32 bolts/nuts to secure the bracket, then applied the round, sticky disc mount to the bracket. Later on, I'll get another factory 12vdc power port for the GPS. I'm going to pull this panel off again, and hardwire tap it into the existing 12vdc power port, and run the GPS power cable into the backside of the useless dash pocket, so the plug slips into the backside of the GPS. The power port and GPS plug/cable will stay inside the dash. This will make for a permanent power supply, with no revealed cable to tangle on the console.
I've still got to install the side panels, that are down on the floor, on the bottom edges of the console. These panels will meet the airbox assembly under the dash. I don't have these panels yet, but I'll be able to install them later, when they arrive.
The next step will be to fab a pocket for the hole, where the original console shifter used to be. I have a pretty good idea for this, but like everything else, just need some more free time. Note the small silver area of the new dash panel (with the horizontal louvers), between the trailer brake controller and the steering column. This was the area that had to be trimmed with the dremel.
At this time, your console and dash should look something like this...
While I had the dash apart, I took the time to make a bracket that fits inside the useless pocket on the right side dash panel, for my GPS. I used a couple 10-32 bolts/nuts to secure the bracket, then applied the round, sticky disc mount to the bracket. Later on, I'll get another factory 12vdc power port for the GPS. I'm going to pull this panel off again, and hardwire tap it into the existing 12vdc power port, and run the GPS power cable into the backside of the useless dash pocket, so the plug slips into the backside of the GPS. The power port and GPS plug/cable will stay inside the dash. This will make for a permanent power supply, with no revealed cable to tangle on the console.
I've still got to install the side panels, that are down on the floor, on the bottom edges of the console. These panels will meet the airbox assembly under the dash. I don't have these panels yet, but I'll be able to install them later, when they arrive.
The next step will be to fab a pocket for the hole, where the original console shifter used to be. I have a pretty good idea for this, but like everything else, just need some more free time. Note the small silver area of the new dash panel (with the horizontal louvers), between the trailer brake controller and the steering column. This was the area that had to be trimmed with the dremel.
Last edited by Wanna Ride; 10-12-2013 at 09:04 PM.
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liinxcore (10-10-2013)
10-10-2013, 12:17 AM
#29
Senior Member
Doing a Great job! This is going to be 100% more helpful than my thread as I had most of it done before I posted it and never took any pictures... Reading something is fine but having the step by step breakdown with pictures is fantastic. As we spoke, some of us have the natural talent to do these things and other don't but as you are showing,,, that does not mean that they can't do it with the right guidance.. If you need anything such as the air bag diagram from the service manual to post here let me know!
Last edited by mamonti; 10-10-2013 at 12:20 AM.