So my fans have been stuck on high, which I originally thought was due to a coolant leak I have since fixed, and my coolant got pretty low, but even weeks after refilling the coolant it is still stuck on high whenever I use the AC or heat.

Below pics are standing pressure and then with the AC clutch engaged

At first I was hoping it would be the pressure sensor, but it seems to read roughly what the gauges read, other prime suspect was the thermal expansion valve, which I've not ruled out yet. But it seems like it's just completely over pressure on both the high and low side, like it's overcharged, but I have never added any refrigerant, ambient temp out today was like 50 to 60F.

Any ideas what could cause this?

2011 F-150 5.0 lariat

static pressure

with clutch engaged

 

Yep seriously OVERCHARGED

 

The A/C has never been serviced though is the part that confuses me. How would it be overcharged without ever adding anything?

 

If not overcharged a serious high side restriction, like system completely contaminated, or cooling fans not working or it sucked in air through the compressor front seal because there was no airflow across evaporator or no airflow across condenser from mud or field grass, or caved in condenser fins.

 

Yeah, that's what I'm fearing. Something is clogged and then had a low side leak that sucked air in rather than leaking out.

Wondering if it's worth it to try running any dye through first. Not entirely sure how to best troubleshoot this. Probably take it and get it evacuated, flush it out, replace the TXV and any parts that don't flush well and then pull vacuum, add oil and recharge?

Cooling fans are definitely working and damn those suckers are loud! Condenser appears clean, but could probably use a hose down, certainly not temp issues within 5s of turning on AC though

Also should've mentioned in my original post that coolant and trans temps are completely normal rising up to 180-190F and holding steady once the thermostat opens

Hoping it's just a clogged TXV, would love it if I don't have to pull the dash, although I do need to replace the driver blend door actuator, I was hoping to break off the ear and finesse it in from under the dash...

 

If it is that contaminated you should replace the expansion valve, compressor, condenser, and any line that has a muffler and flush the rest of the system.

 

Replaced the TXV and seals, pulled a vacuum, which held for 1hr and then recharged it, fingers crossed it holds up. Also looking at the service logs, prior owner had a leaking schrader ~55k miles ago which explains the dye. If I have issues again I'll dig in deeper but for now its blowing cold air and operating smoothly.

 

I see, so it HAD been serviced before.

 

Yeah, I didn't see anything on the digital service log, but once I saw the dye I dug a little deeper into the paper logs the previous owner gave me when I bought it. Presumably that service was good though since over 5 years and 50K miles ago with no problems until recently