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I pulled the seat up and removed the door panel and started tracking all the wires from the seat module to the mirror and switch in the driver's door. You won't believe this. I have a full complement of wires in the seat harness (driver's seat module) and in the door harness. The harness between the two does not have them for power fold. What the heck is that all about??? But it's better than nothing. I can splice into the seat harness, use a Deutsch connector, and run the wires to the door jam connector. From there, I'm good with the addition of the pins and should be able to have everything operate with the factory switches...providing my seat module will allow the power fold. I'm going to go look at that with Forscan today.
1tufgt...I may hit you up on the disassembly of those door jam connectors. They look a bit tricky.
I pulled the seat up and removed the door panel and started tracking all the wires from the seat module to the mirror and switch in the driver's door. You won't believe this. I have a full complement of wires in the seat harness (driver's seat module) and in the door harness. The harness between the two does not have them for power fold. What the heck is that all about??? But it's better than nothing. I can splice into the seat harness, use a Deutsch connector, and run the wires to the door jam connector. From there, I'm good with the addition of the pins and should be able to have everything operate with the factory switches...providing my seat module will allow the power fold. I'm going to go look at that with Forscan today.
1tufgt...I may hit you up on the disassembly of those door jam connectors. They look a bit tricky.
The hardest part is just getting the connector disconnected due to limited space between the door and the body. Once you get them apart it’s easy to take the connector apart.
I hear that! I think it was harder to get it back together. You have to partially close the door and somehow manipulate the darn thing back in there with no room for your hands.
I hear that! I think it was harder to get it back together. You have to partially close the door and somehow manipulate the darn thing back in there with no room for your hands.
Correct. Had to partially lift the latch to get it in.
The parts for this project had been on my shelf for over a year now, and was originally intended for my 2011 Platinum with manual tow mirrors, but redirected to my new-to-me 2013 Platinum. As the OP originally stated, there are different ways to implement this retrofit, and the following DIY is how I did it. Since I wanted smoked side marker lenses, my search for an aftermarket option quickly led me to the iJDMToy Switchback LED Side Mirror Marker Lamps. As these LED's were extremely bright, I decided not to include the parking light circuit to avoid irritating oncoming traffic at night as these lights are mostly forward-facing. Since this meant that with the factory wiring configuration, they would function solely as turn signal (amber) and puddle lights (white), I wanted to install true downward-facing puddle lamps, which led me to the Puddle Lamp install-Powerscope Tow Mirrors thread by Scarlet.
Although this thread was a great source of information, much of the important details and different installs were spread across its 37 pages. And the last couple pages introduced a method of using OEM-pins in the door jamb harness connectors but did not provide any info of which pin positions to use. Thus, I had to scour the Ford Service Manual wiring diagrams and pin-outs to discover the factory pin-positions specifically designated for the PowerScopes. This was the wiring diagram I designed for my retrofit, which mapped out how I would proceed:
This schematic is only applicable to a 2013-14 with factory power-fold.
Tools Used
Spoiler
Masking Tape Dispenser
Magnetic Pick-up Tool
Magnetic Parts Tray
Heat Gun
Die Grinder
Grinding Stone (to trim inteior of mirror housing to fit VLED lamps)
Dremel Rotary Tool
Dremel Cutoff Wheel (for cutting large openings in door panel)
RotoZip Drywall Zip Bit (for cutting slots and trimming door panel)
Multimeter
Flash Light
Headlamp
Scissors
Needle Nose Pliers
Wire Cutters
Wire Strippers
Terminal Crimpers
Wire Crimpers
Utility Knife
Trim Removal Tool
Flat and Round Files
Jeweler's Screwdirver-Fine/2.4mm (for connector pin removal)
Flat Blade Screwdriver-1/8" (to assist disconnecting electrical connectors)
Flat Blade Screwdriver-Regular
Combination Wrench-10mm (battery cables)
Cordless Driver
Hex Drive 1/4" Adapter-2" Extension
Hex Drive 1/4" Adapter-6" Extension
Hex Drive 3/8" Adapter-2" Extension
Ratchet 1/4" Drive
1/4" Drive Extension-1.5" Wobble
1/4" Drive Extension-3"
Sockets 1/4" Drive-5.5mm, 6mm, 7mm, 8mm, 10mm
Deep Well Socket 3/8" Drive-11mm
Not shown:
Cordless Drill
Hole Saw-37mm (for VLED Puddle Lamps)
L-Shaped Pick Tool
Black Marker Pen
Parts List
Spoiler
1x DL3Z-17683-AA, Mirror, Left, w/Trailer Tow, W/Heat, W/Side Marker Lamp, Black
1x DL3Z-17682-AA, Mirror, Right, w/Trailer Tow, W/Heat, W/Side Marker Lamp, Black
1x 8C3Z-17D743-AA, Mirror Cover, Left, Chrome
1x 8C3Z-17D742-AA, Mirror Cover, Right, Chrome
1x iJDMToy Switchback LED Side Mirror Marker Lamps, Smoked Lens, Pair
1x VLEDS Ford Lincoln Puddle Light, 5500K Pure White, Pair
1x DL3Z-14527-AC, Bezel, Door Trim, Charcoal Black
1x 7C3Z-17B676-AA, Mirror Switch, Telescoping
1x 7L1Z-17B676-AA, Mirror Switch, Power Window, w/Platinum
1x CU2Z-14S411-VA, Wire Assembly
4x Splice Terminals, Quick Disconnect
8x Heat Shrink Waterproof Crimp Butt Connectors
20ft 18AWG Green with Red Stripe (telescoping wire)
20ft 18AWG Whtie with Red Strip (telescoping wire)
3ft 18AWG Green with Violet Stripe (power)
3ft 18AWG Black (ground)
1ft 22AWG Red (VLED Puddle Lamps)
1ft 22AWG Black (VLED Puddle Lamps
4x GET 0.64mm Female In-line Terminal 1719958-1 (door harness connector, female)
8x GET 0.64mm Male In-line Terminal 1438299-4 (door harness connector, male; mirror connectors)
PowerScope Prep Procedures (About Half a Day)
Spoiler
A. I masked off the bottom of each mirror housing, placed the faces of the VLED bodies against the bottom and positioned them so that they were on the flattest part, just before the housing starts to curve upwards away from the VLED bodies. I then carefully traced the VLEDs while holding them in position.
B. After determining the centers of the outlines, I used a 37mm hole saw to drill out the openings.
C. The interior side of the wide-angle mirror cavities interfered with the VLED's from sitting flush against the housing, so I used a grinding stone to "melt" the plastic flat about an eighth of an inch. There's plenty of material left without worrying about burning a hole to the front-side so long as you grind the minimal material needed to allow the VLED's it mount flush to the housing.
D. I removed the factory side marker lights, extended the VLED short pigtails about 6 inches each with 22 AWG (same gauge as the VLED wires), routed them through the new holes to the marker light openings, then used T-Splice quick disconnects to the marker light wires. I tested all spliced connections with a muiltimeter, and made any corrections as needed.
E. Removed the masking, cleaned up bodies where the VLEDs would mount with the included alcohol pads, attached the wire leads, then carefully aligned and affixed the VLED lamps, which uses pre-attached adhesive tape.
Everything came out nice and flush, just the way I wanted:
F. The iJDMToy Side Marker locking tabs required filing down just over an 1/8 inch on each side of the tang before they would lock in place. The plastic is very soft so only a few strokes were needed with a course file. (This is the most common source of complaints and negative reviews on Amazon, but only a few recognized the issue and performed the necessary filing; the rest usually lost one or both lights while driving.) I plugged the Marker connectors into the female spade connectors, carefully tucked the connectors into the interior body of the mirror housings, then slid the Markers into place until the tangs locked securely. The male spade connectors on the Marker lights can be finicky and may need to be carefully reseated once the mirrors are mounted on the truck to work properly.
Last edited by Augster; 01-13-2020 at 09:50 PM.
Reason: Can't seem to remove duplicate videos
The retrofit of the vehicle was the most time consuming task, spanning across two weekends, though typically only a half day was spent each weekend day due to other engagements. Most of the time was spent carefully reviewing the next step, figuring out how to disassemble both sides of the cowl, and documenting all my steps.
The vehicle procedures are broken into to two posts due to size: first one covers passenger side all the way to the driver's door jamb (cab side), while the second covers the driver's door exclusively.
Vehicle Prep Procedures (At Least a Full Day)
Spoiler
A. Battery was first disconnected before both door panels were removed following procedure demonstrated in Stage 3 Motorsports 2009-2014 F150 Door Panel Removal Instructions (I utilized an L-shaped pick tool, instead of a trim removal tool, which made removing the cover plates behind the door handles much easier):
B. Glove box, air bag, and center stack completely removed, following 4D Infotainments procedure demonstrated their SYNC 2 to SYNC 3 Upgrade | 2013 - 2014 Ford F-150 (I performed a Sync 2 to Sync 3 Retrofit at the same time, but the basic disassembly procedures are the same no matter what Sync system you have):
C. Speakers were removed and original mirrors replaced with new PowerScopes.
D. Passenger door jamb harness was disconnected and disassembled.
Rotated the gray locking lever until index slots aligned with indexing tabs on pivots in order to remove from black housing. Tab retainer at the bottom of the black housing was unlatched, then the whole black outer shell was slid off rubber boot.
E. Harness pulled into door and through the speaker opening, then rubber boot pulled back.
F. Female terminals were crimped onto the pair of wires for telescoping function, black terminal retainer sleeve pulled out on the door jamb female terminal housing, then inserted the wires into their respective positions: Green with Red Stripe to pin position 6, and White with Red Stripe to pin position 7 (both positions should be unused). Black retainer sleeve snapped back on, then rubber boot onto housing.
G. Wire pair traced up door harness, behind water shield, and to mirror connector, taping the pair to the harness every several inches. Wires cut to length, crimped on a pair of male terminals, removed the red terminal retainer from mirror connector, and inserted the pins into their respective positions (which should be unused): Green w/Red to pin position 2, and White w/Red to pin position 9. Continuity was confirmed with a multimeter, then reinserted red terminal retainer, pulled harness back into door and through door jamb, and reassembled the housing by using hand soap to assist in sliding the black connctor over the rubber boot.
H. Now the REAL fun begins: Removed fuse panel access door, pulled up front-portion of passeger side scuff plate, then removed passenger side cowl trim panel.
I. Unplugged all connectors to BCM, removed two bolts from the BCM's right-hand legs, and pivoted the BCM towards the driver's side then pulled out (the single left-hand leg has a tab that hooks into a vertical slot on the side of the cab).
J. (4WD Only) Removed right-hand bolt on the TCCM (Transfer Case Control Module), loosened (but did not remove) left-hand bolt, then pulled TCCM out of the way to gain access to
the large, dark grey rubber access cover.
K. Removed door harness ground bolt and any wiring harness plastic mounting tabs that were in the way, then pulled out rubber access cover.
L. Pushed up on door jamb round connector's lower locking tab with a screwdriver, rotated housing approximately 5-degrees clockwise to line-up bottom retaining tab to lower notch on door jamb face, then pushed connector into cab and out into interior.
M. Pulled out white terminal retainer completely.
N. Crimped male terminals onto wire pair, and inserted Green w/Red into pin position 6 and White w/Red into pin position 7 (both should be unused).
O. Coupled door jamb connectors together (there's enough slack in harness) and checked for continuity between mirror connector and at wires out back of round door jamb housing. Once connectivity confirmed, reinstalled the round door jamb housing by indexing retaining lug through notch and rotating counter-clockwise until locking tab engaged.
P. Now comes the trick part: To properly insert the square door jamb connector into round door jamb connector, you may need to partially close passenger door while lining up the square door jamb connector by hand within the resulting narrow gap. I was able to wrangle the square door jamb connector into proper alignment without closing door, after much consternation and a few choice words. The connectors must be in a completely straight alignment to before the gray locking lever can be closed to guide square door jamb connector the rest of the way into the round door jamb connector.
Q. Wire pair were taped together every 6 inches for about 10 feet.
R. Wire pair routing started up towards passenger airbag.
Behind center stack.
Down under steering wheel. I taped the wire pair to parallel harnesses along route every 6 to 12 inches where possible.
S. On driver's side, steps similar: disconnected door jamb connector, pulled up front of scuff plate, removed cowl trim panel.
T. Removed driver's side lower dash trim panel, metal reinforcement plate, then parking brake assembly's lower bolt.
U. Removed parking brake assembly's upper bolt, then disconnected the electrical connector from parking brake position sensor.
V. Detached plastic wiring harness mounting tab, removed parking brake assembly's left-hand bolt, unbolted the parking brake release lever, pulled release lever assembly into dash, then swung parking brake frame assembly out of the way.
W. Removed grounding bolt, then pulled out rubber access cover.
X. As with passenger's side, removed round door jamb connector from jamb, pulled into interior, and removed white terminal retainer.
Y The wire pair was cut to length, male terminals crimped on, then Green w/Red into pin position 8, and White w/Red into pin position 11 (both should be unused). With insufficient harness length to do a test coupling, continuity was checked between passenger's side mirror connector to driver's side male terminals. With confirmed, connector was reassembled and reinstalled into door jamb.
A. Red terminal retainer was removed from driver's mirror connector, and with the aid of a fine (2.4mm) jeweler's screw driver to keep the locking latch disengaged, removed wires from pin position 2 and 9 (auto-dimming function), folded them back onto harness and completely covered them separately in tape to prevent shorting.
B. Assembled a pair of telescoping wires for driver's mirror, male terminals crimped on, inserted Green w/Red into pin position 2, White w/Red into pin position 9, then reinstalled red terminal retainer.
C. Installed both switches to new bezel panel, connected new wiring pigtaill to telescoping switch, then new mirror adjusting switch to its existing wiring connector. This allowed me to gauge the necessary wiring lengths and cut them to proper size. Started new telescoping wire pair from driver's mirror, traced them down harness to new pigtail wires. White w/Red wire was cut to length to the end of pigtails and butt-connected to pin 7 of pigtail. Each subsequent butt connector was staggered, and thus next wire, Green w/Red, was offset about 2 inches closer to telescoping switch, and butt-connected to pin 2 of new pigtail.
D. Square door jamb connector was disassembled, pulled into door and out speaker opening, rubber boot pulled back, and black terminal retainer pulled out.
E. Male terminals were crimped onto new pair of telescoping wires, Green w/Red inserted into pin position 8, White w/Red into pin position 11, then jamb connector rerouted back through door jamb and reassembled.
F. The wire pair were traced along door harness, behind water shield, up to new pigtail, taped to harness every couple of inches or so, where possible. Green w/Red was butt-connected to pin 3 and White w/Red was butt-connected to pin 7.
G. Power wire, Green w/Violet, was tapped into wire from pin 1 of driver's door lock switch, while ground wire, Black, was tapped into wire from pin 2 of lock switch. This pair was traced along armrest harness, behind water shield, then to new pigtail. Green w/Violet was butt-connected to pin 4 while Black was butt-connected to pin 5.
H. Continuity was checked for all pins on telescoping switch connector to all outbound connectors.
I. The final battle: The square door jamb connector was inserted and locked into round door jamb connector. In my case, while struggling to align the connectors, the left-hand leg of the gray lock lever snapped off. This was the only casualty of my retrofit.
Although I was still able to lock the harness together with just one leg, I will eventually replace it with a new one. There appears to be even less room to get the connectors aligned properly. As I don't want to break the new lever, it appears the only way to prevent that is to connect them with the front fender removed.
J. With both door jamb harnesses now connected, continuity was checked between telescoping switch and across dash to passenger's side mirror connector, and any faults corrected (one of the pins in the driver's round door jamb connector was pulled out of the terminal during reinstallation of the rubber access cover when it inadvertently got caught up on something).
I. Mirror connectors were plugged into new mirrors, all switch panels reconnected, battery reconnected, and a full function check performed. This is when I discovered the original mirror adjustment switch was incompatible with the new PowerScope mirrors.
With the original switch, the driver's mirror would not power-fold; only the passeger's mirror would power-fold. I originally believed the brand new driver's PowerScope was defective and began the search for a new PowerScope. But before I pulled the trigger on another PowerScope, I wanted to verify that it was defective by reinstalling the original driver's power-folding standard mirror. This was when I discovered that original driver's mirrors still power-folded, but always in the opposite direction of the passenger PowerScope; even if I manually folded the driver's mirror to the opposite position, it would revert back to woking in the opposite direction of the passenger's side. Then I realized that I had a new mirror adjusting/power-fold switch on-hand because I originally intended these PowerScopes to be installed on my 2011 that came with manual tow mirrors so its mirror switch did not have power-fold function and had purchased a brand new power-folding version. I installed that switch along with the driver's PowerScope and everything worked perfectly. When I checked the part numbers, the incompatible FoMoCo stamped part had 9L1T-14B003-AA3JA6 on a label, while the brand new one had 7L1Z-17B676-AA. The former doesn't show up at all on Tasca's nor any other website (other than Alibaba), while the former is listed as the applicable part for my 2013.
The lesson learned from this is: if you are performing a PowerScope retrofit on a vehicle that has factory-built power-folding mirrors, I would recommend immediately replacing the mirror switch with the new 7L1Z-17B676-AA mirror switch as part of the retrofit.
J. With full functionality confirmed, heat shrink butt connectors were sealed and pigtail harness fully wrapped in tape, then wrapped up with mirror adjustment harness up to door sail.
K. Both driver's side and passenger's side cowls were reassembled: access covers reinstalled, grounding spades bolted, parking brake assemblies reinstalled, TCCM reinstalled, BCM reinstalled, electrical connectors reattached, wire plastic mounts reattached, trim panels reattached, cowl panels reattached, access panels reattached.
Door Panel Modification
A. Masking tape was applied to top surface of door panel, new bezel trim panel placed on top and positioned with mirror adjustment switch holes completely aligned and window side edge parallel to door panel edge. The telescoping switch square opening was carefully outlined with a black marker while bezel held in place.
B. Straight-edge was used to clean up outline, then a Dremel tool with thin cut-off wheel used to rough cut opening just inside the marked lines.
C. Flat file was used to square opening to fit bezel. Once bezel could fit smoothly and squrely into opening, a black marker was used to apply a thick layer of ink onto metal locking tabs then bezel was carefully aligned and pressed into masking tape to leave a faint mark of where locking tabs would go. A rough outline of the size of the slots were marked,
D. A drywall side-cutting bit was used in a Dremel to cut the locking slots. Bezel was trial fit during cuts with only small cuts made between fittings to prevent overcutting that would result in loose attachment.
Once bezel fit snugly and was still securely fastened, attentioned shifted to mirror switch opening.
Because mirror adjustment switch has a very shallow dog-leg shape under the panel, it would not fit the thickness of both the new bezel trim and the original door panel stacked together.
E. Door panel has to be opened up to fit the dog-leg length, which was outlined on the masking tape, then cut out using the drywall bit.
F. Finally, notches were cut to fit spring tabs without being touched, which would prevent spring tabs from fully engaging under new bezel to lock in place. Flat and round files were used to clean all cuts.
G. Once fit and finish is completed to satisfication, reinstall both speakers.
H. Removed lock **** inserts to ease lining up lock ***** into door panel openings, reinstalled door panels, then reinserted lock inserts.
@Augster great full write up. I didn’t use the OEM pin positions like you did. I just picked open slots and mounted them in their.
And the molex is a pain in the *** to get back in. It go frustrating for me since you have to close the door ever so much to get it back in and locked.
I also like you found a new part number for the power mirror switch. I’ve just recently started having folding issues after 6 months and wonder if that could be attributed to it but will have to check the part number this weekend.
Do you have close up pics of those side markers. I was leaning towards wanting them too but couldn’t tell if they were a gloss black or matte black since I saw images of both.
Do you have close up pics of those side markers. I was leaning towards wanting them too but couldn’t tell if they were a gloss black or matte black since I saw images of both.
Keep in mind these are "smoked" lenses so it's really more like a dark grey translucent color. And it's a mix of both matte and gloss: The matte portion is a "frame" around the outer portion, while it's gloss over the actual LED's themselves. I don't have any full day closeups; I now only have a night photo that I just went out and took, but I do have one partial day photo of them:
07-06-2019, 11:00 AM
