p0014 code
Figured I would come here to ask this since I haven't seen much about it...
I have a 2012 f150 5.0 with 243k miles on the engine I will get the p0014 code right around the time I am due for a oil change so really no harm no foul will change the oil and code goes away. the whole time I have the code the vehicle runs as it should. Only thing I can think happens is I get a little worse mpg but I sure 50mph winds and the cold weather isn't helping.
I thought I saw somewhere on a forum some other guys were having this issue and they were getting it intermit. Not sure if this is something I should dig into or just let it go. I did have new vvt and a timing chain cover replaced about 80,000 miles ago that is a whole different story.
I have a 2012 f150 5.0 with 243k miles on the engine I will get the p0014 code right around the time I am due for a oil change so really no harm no foul will change the oil and code goes away. the whole time I have the code the vehicle runs as it should. Only thing I can think happens is I get a little worse mpg but I sure 50mph winds and the cold weather isn't helping.
I thought I saw somewhere on a forum some other guys were having this issue and they were getting it intermit. Not sure if this is something I should dig into or just let it go. I did have new vvt and a timing chain cover replaced about 80,000 miles ago that is a whole different story.
How many miles do you go between oil changes? Sounds like your truck is asking you to cut it by 25% or so.
When I had a p0012 code, so same issue but intake camshaft, same side, it was a failed vct solenoid, but it was electrical as I had a P0010 as well. When I changed the vct solenoids, I did notice the actuator pin was sticking on the old solenoids and this on a truck that gets 3,000 mile oil changes and was at around 80,000 miles at the time. If this is your only code, I'd guess something mechanical in between the solenoid and phaser isn't happy with old oil and would just shorten your oil change intervals. Without a secondary code or advance diagnostic monitoring, you can't be sure it's just the solenoid.
When I had a p0012 code, so same issue but intake camshaft, same side, it was a failed vct solenoid, but it was electrical as I had a P0010 as well. When I changed the vct solenoids, I did notice the actuator pin was sticking on the old solenoids and this on a truck that gets 3,000 mile oil changes and was at around 80,000 miles at the time. If this is your only code, I'd guess something mechanical in between the solenoid and phaser isn't happy with old oil and would just shorten your oil change intervals. Without a secondary code or advance diagnostic monitoring, you can't be sure it's just the solenoid.
right I'm seeing a lot of guys posting they have multiple codes coming up with the p0014 code. Ive checked the plug and the connector and see noting out of the ordinary but yeah I am around 28% oil life. Cleared the code last night and left this morning for work and it has not came back on yet. Truck runs and sounds fine I had an issue with the pressure switch in the summer time and it ran and sounded pretty bad... I need to do the valve covers this spring so if it can hold out until then I will just replace them then.
I normally go every three to four months could be anywhere from 3500 to 4000 miles just depending on how busy I am with work.
I normally go every three to four months could be anywhere from 3500 to 4000 miles just depending on how busy I am with work.
Last edited by Daniel Ratti; Dec 2, 2022 at 11:44 AM.
I would say use a 5w30 at any mileage just because this engine should be using it - HOWEVER, due to your mileage, regardless, you should be switching to a 5w30 anyway. Also consider a better oil, i'm assuming that oil is the blend, or semi synthetic, as the full synthetic version is incredibly expensive, boutique-level expensive.
Your change intervals seem fine, but depending on the overall health of your engine and the driving conditions (and type of driving) that blend is probably not up to it anymore, keeping the soot and other crap out of the oil really helps stop gumming up things like VCTs amongst other things, remember, filters don't remove soot.
Personally, i would try any of the following oils and keep the same OCI.
1) Quaker State full synthetic 5w30
2) Valvoline synthetic extended protection 5w30
3) Pennzoil Platinum 5w30
4) Amsoil signature series 5w30.
The latter would be in second position if it wasn't so expensive.
Your change intervals seem fine, but depending on the overall health of your engine and the driving conditions (and type of driving) that blend is probably not up to it anymore, keeping the soot and other crap out of the oil really helps stop gumming up things like VCTs amongst other things, remember, filters don't remove soot.
Personally, i would try any of the following oils and keep the same OCI.
1) Quaker State full synthetic 5w30
2) Valvoline synthetic extended protection 5w30
3) Pennzoil Platinum 5w30
4) Amsoil signature series 5w30.
The latter would be in second position if it wasn't so expensive.
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I would say use a 5w30 at any mileage just because this engine should be using it - HOWEVER, due to your mileage, regardless, you should be switching to a 5w30 anyway. Also consider a better oil, i'm assuming that oil is the blend, or semi synthetic, as the full synthetic version is incredibly expensive, boutique-level expensive.
Your change intervals seem fine, but depending on the overall health of your engine and the driving conditions (and type of driving) that blend is probably not up to it anymore, keeping the soot and other crap out of the oil really helps stop gumming up things like VCTs amongst other things, remember, filters don't remove soot.
Personally, i would try any of the following oils and keep the same OCI.
1) Quaker State full synthetic 5w30
2) Valvoline synthetic extended protection 5w30
3) Pennzoil Platinum 5w30
4) Amsoil signature series 5w30.
The latter would be in second position if it wasn't so expensive.
Your change intervals seem fine, but depending on the overall health of your engine and the driving conditions (and type of driving) that blend is probably not up to it anymore, keeping the soot and other crap out of the oil really helps stop gumming up things like VCTs amongst other things, remember, filters don't remove soot.
Personally, i would try any of the following oils and keep the same OCI.
1) Quaker State full synthetic 5w30
2) Valvoline synthetic extended protection 5w30
3) Pennzoil Platinum 5w30
4) Amsoil signature series 5w30.
The latter would be in second position if it wasn't so expensive.
I thought changing oil weight was a no no from what I’ve always been told. Interesting to hear that but also makes sense i suppose.
This is just how the testing and certification procedure works for CAFE standards. It's not nefarious per sé, but it does limit what can be said (per the above) because it's part of the contract - CAFE give credits/monies related to the MPG rating, if the manufacturer tells CAFE to test their vehicle with a certain oil, then it's locked down to that. 5w20 *does* give an MPG increase, it's a fraction of a MPG but that doesn't matter as CAFE is fleet, it's the average across all units sold, so they add up.
Anyway, a better oil and at 5w30 will serve your engine well.
Absolutely not - it was *always* a thing, even in the owners manual, right up until CAFE standards; they literally mandate one, and only one visocisty is filled from factory, serviced, stated in the manual, on the engine.
This is just how the testing and certification procedure works for CAFE standards. It's not nefarious per sé, but it does limit what can be said (per the above) because it's part of the contract - CAFE give credits/monies related to the MPG rating, if the manufacturer tells CAFE to test their vehicle with a certain oil, then it's locked down to that. 5w20 *does* give an MPG increase, it's a fraction of a MPG but that doesn't matter as CAFE is fleet, it's the average across all units sold, so they add up.
Anyway, a better oil and at 5w30 will serve your engine well.
This is just how the testing and certification procedure works for CAFE standards. It's not nefarious per sé, but it does limit what can be said (per the above) because it's part of the contract - CAFE give credits/monies related to the MPG rating, if the manufacturer tells CAFE to test their vehicle with a certain oil, then it's locked down to that. 5w20 *does* give an MPG increase, it's a fraction of a MPG but that doesn't matter as CAFE is fleet, it's the average across all units sold, so they add up.
Anyway, a better oil and at 5w30 will serve your engine well.





