Ordered bilstein 5100s and rear blocks, any advice on install?
10-14-2017, 01:24 PM
#11
Just installed them the other day with my dad. Pretty straight forward, no lines to disconnect. I don't see why you'd have to unhook the battery, I didn't. I used 3 spring compressors from auto zone (rented). 3 was enough, but just be very careful. If they break or slip off, there is a LOT of potential energy stored when these are compressed and bad things can happen if it doesn't go right. Other than that it was fairly easy, keep in mind the bolts for the shock tower only go back into the truck one way. You'll see the two that are closer to each other, they go towards the rear I believe. Didn't realize this at first and was struggling to get them back on lol. Not sure of the vacuum lines, I didn't run into any. I'm on 2.25" too. No vibrations whatsoever. Make sure you torque everything, if you can't find the specs I'll get them to you
10-14-2017, 06:02 PM
#12
Torque specifications
endlinks 52 ft. lbs.
top center strut nut 41 ft. lbs
three strut tower nuts 46 ft. lbs
strut lower A-arm nuts 52 ft. lbs
endlinks 52 ft. lbs.
top center strut nut 41 ft. lbs
three strut tower nuts 46 ft. lbs
strut lower A-arm nuts 52 ft. lbs
10-15-2017, 07:40 AM
#13
Having done F150Lifts.com (HaloLifts) coilover suspension I can give you a few pointers.
For one, it is not necessary to remove the LCA bolts to drop it out of the way in order to gain enough room to install the coilover assembly. It was far easier to remove the center nut of the IWE and pull out the spindle to allow the LCA to drop down to gain the clearance needed to install. You must also remove the UCA ball joint, Steering ball joint and Stabilizer Bar link stud at the top.
And two, once everything is in, loosen the UCA bolts on the frame and set your truck back on the ground to its new raised position and then tighten the bolts of the UCA back up to factory specs (110ft/lbs). By doing this, you are taking the tension out of the upper bushings that hold the UCA in place from its original factory height and allowing it to move and settle to its new raised position height. You will be amazed at the difference in ride quality by doing this simple UCA adjustment.
For one, it is not necessary to remove the LCA bolts to drop it out of the way in order to gain enough room to install the coilover assembly. It was far easier to remove the center nut of the IWE and pull out the spindle to allow the LCA to drop down to gain the clearance needed to install. You must also remove the UCA ball joint, Steering ball joint and Stabilizer Bar link stud at the top.
And two, once everything is in, loosen the UCA bolts on the frame and set your truck back on the ground to its new raised position and then tighten the bolts of the UCA back up to factory specs (110ft/lbs). By doing this, you are taking the tension out of the upper bushings that hold the UCA in place from its original factory height and allowing it to move and settle to its new raised position height. You will be amazed at the difference in ride quality by doing this simple UCA adjustment.
The following 2 users liked this post by Keith460:
MrLunchbox (10-18-2017),
Vette10R (10-15-2017)
10-15-2017, 08:58 PM
#15
Edit: it looks like only for 0-1" on the rear.
Last edited by mass-hole; 10-15-2017 at 09:00 PM.
10-17-2017, 03:50 PM
#16
Senior Member
I think it is easier to remove the LCA bolts and drop the arm and not touch the IWE. Why? Easier to mess up the IWE.
SO by me just remove the LCA bolts
SO by me just remove the LCA bolts
10-18-2017, 11:59 AM
#19
Senior Member
Integrated wheel end.
Basically the part that activates and disengages 4WD.
What happens is people tend not to be careful with a plastic white ring that has gears. When you tighten the spindle it is not centered and the ring snaps. So, you end up driving in like 50/50 4WD and 2WD.
Which is why I find it easier to just place a jack under the arm and drop the LCA
Basically the part that activates and disengages 4WD.
What happens is people tend not to be careful with a plastic white ring that has gears. When you tighten the spindle it is not centered and the ring snaps. So, you end up driving in like 50/50 4WD and 2WD.
Which is why I find it easier to just place a jack under the arm and drop the LCA
10-18-2017, 12:34 PM
#20
Following, I am purchasing the same setup (Bilsteins front and back, highest setting, and 3" Ready Lift block) for my 13' in the next month. Would love to see finished photos.