Ordered bilstein 5100s and rear blocks, any advice on install?
10-13-2017, 08:54 AM
#1
Ordered bilstein 5100s and rear blocks, any advice on install?
I'll be installing these next week with my brother in law. He has a lift which will make it nice but I'm curious if there is anything I should watch out for when installing the fronts?
I've read here about vibrations and other odd things after install and I don't want anything like that happening. I'll be setting the fronts at the highest setting and putting a 3" rear block in.
Any advice would be great, thanks!
I've read here about vibrations and other odd things after install and I don't want anything like that happening. I'll be setting the fronts at the highest setting and putting a 3" rear block in.
Any advice would be great, thanks!
10-13-2017, 09:39 AM
#2
Having 1/2" socket wrench, breaker bar, pneumatic impact or wrench are all nice to have when trying to trying to compress the springs.
Clean all the mating surface from debris and grit. This can't be emphasized enough.
Make sure to mark the orientation/clocking of everything prior to removal, with marker, grease pencil and reinstall using the references. This avoids many issues that can creep in with noises and or differences in height from side to side.
Follow-OEM recommended torque specs for fasteners.
On completion of the install, recheck/tighten your sway bar endlinks once the suspension is back on the ground.
Clean all the mating surface from debris and grit. This can't be emphasized enough.
Make sure to mark the orientation/clocking of everything prior to removal, with marker, grease pencil and reinstall using the references. This avoids many issues that can creep in with noises and or differences in height from side to side.
Follow-OEM recommended torque specs for fasteners.
On completion of the install, recheck/tighten your sway bar endlinks once the suspension is back on the ground.
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MrLunchbox (10-18-2017)
10-13-2017, 12:43 PM
#4
echoed what Joe mentioned and never had an issue with any lines. disconnect the battery while working. i could have had the job done in about an hour or so but our spring compressor was not working with us so i had to get another one. that took the longest and an hour job turned into 3hrs. give it a couple of weeks and get an alignment.
10-13-2017, 04:17 PM
#6
You can simply remove the vacuum lines from the IWE. Additionally you can remove the vacuum line retainer that attaches to the spindle to make absolutely certain your not putting any undue stress on the vacuum lines.
There are considerations for going to the highest setting. This limits the down travel of the upper A-arm. Also increases the operating angles of the CV axles, outer and inner tie rods, and the upper A-Arm ball joint. The more the angles are increased so is the potential for issue or longevity of the parts. Just something to consider.
There are considerations for going to the highest setting. This limits the down travel of the upper A-arm. Also increases the operating angles of the CV axles, outer and inner tie rods, and the upper A-Arm ball joint. The more the angles are increased so is the potential for issue or longevity of the parts. Just something to consider.
Last edited by joedotmac; 10-13-2017 at 04:25 PM.
10-13-2017, 05:26 PM
#7
I thought you couldnt lift the rear with Bilsteins?
The install on the rear is very easy. The front can suck. Mainly because for me to even get the stock coilovers out I have to undo the LCA bolts(on the frame side) to get them to drop far enough to slide the lower shock bolts out. This is on a 2014 which has a different LCA(lower coilover bolts are parallel with the shock, pointing straight down though the LCA) than the 2009-13's so you need the arm to drop an extra couple of inches to clear the bolts on the end of the shock. The LCA's definately had to be unbolted for the bilsteins even at the 2nd from bottom position(.8" lift)
I didnt have an issue with the vacuum lines because I supported the spindle and hubs with a floor jack and dropped the frame side of the LCA's.
The install on the rear is very easy. The front can suck. Mainly because for me to even get the stock coilovers out I have to undo the LCA bolts(on the frame side) to get them to drop far enough to slide the lower shock bolts out. This is on a 2014 which has a different LCA(lower coilover bolts are parallel with the shock, pointing straight down though the LCA) than the 2009-13's so you need the arm to drop an extra couple of inches to clear the bolts on the end of the shock. The LCA's definately had to be unbolted for the bilsteins even at the 2nd from bottom position(.8" lift)
I didnt have an issue with the vacuum lines because I supported the spindle and hubs with a floor jack and dropped the frame side of the LCA's.
Last edited by mass-hole; 10-13-2017 at 05:32 PM.
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10-13-2017, 05:36 PM
#8
Senior Member
Just installed them the other day with my dad. Pretty straight forward, no lines to disconnect. I don't see why you'd have to unhook the battery, I didn't. I used 3 spring compressors from auto zone (rented). 3 was enough, but just be very careful. If they break or slip off, there is a LOT of potential energy stored when these are compressed and bad things can happen if it doesn't go right. Other than that it was fairly easy, keep in mind the bolts for the shock tower only go back into the truck one way. You'll see the two that are closer to each other, they go towards the rear I believe. Didn't realize this at first and was struggling to get them back on lol. Not sure of the vacuum lines, I didn't run into any. I'm on 2.25" too. No vibrations whatsoever. Make sure you torque everything, if you can't find the specs I'll get them to you
10-13-2017, 05:39 PM
#9
Senior Member
I thought you couldnt lift the rear with Bilsteins?
The install on the rear is very easy. The front can suck. Mainly because for me to even get the stock coilovers out I have to undo the LCA bolts(on the frame side) to get them to drop far enough to slide the lower shock bolts out. This is on a 2014 which has a different LCA(lower coilover bolts are parallel with the shock, pointing straight down though the LCA) than the 2009-13's so you need the arm to drop an extra couple of inches to clear the bolts on the end of the shock. The LCA's definately had to be unbolted for the bilsteins even at the 2nd from bottom position(.8" lift)
I didnt have an issue with the vacuum lines because I supported the spindle and hubs with a floor jack and dropped the frame side of the LCA's.
The install on the rear is very easy. The front can suck. Mainly because for me to even get the stock coilovers out I have to undo the LCA bolts(on the frame side) to get them to drop far enough to slide the lower shock bolts out. This is on a 2014 which has a different LCA(lower coilover bolts are parallel with the shock, pointing straight down though the LCA) than the 2009-13's so you need the arm to drop an extra couple of inches to clear the bolts on the end of the shock. The LCA's definately had to be unbolted for the bilsteins even at the 2nd from bottom position(.8" lift)
I didnt have an issue with the vacuum lines because I supported the spindle and hubs with a floor jack and dropped the frame side of the LCA's.
Not to hijack this thread, but what are the odds you belong to the Jeeps of Mass group on Facebook? I used to be on that site a lot when I had my wrangler, there aren't many people with lifted liberties lol
10-14-2017, 01:09 PM
#10
Senior Member
Just installed them the other day with my dad. Pretty straight forward, no lines to disconnect. I don't see why you'd have to unhook the battery, I didn't. I used 3 spring compressors from auto zone (rented). 3 was enough, but just be very careful. If they break or slip off, there is a LOT of potential energy stored when these are compressed and bad things can happen if it doesn't go right. Other than that it was fairly easy, keep in mind the bolts for the shock tower only go back into the truck one way. You'll see the two that are closer to each other, they go towards the rear I believe. Didn't realize this at first and was struggling to get them back on lol. Not sure of the vacuum lines, I didn't run into any. I'm on 2.25" too. No vibrations whatsoever. Make sure you torque everything, if you can't find the specs I'll get them to you
