No alignment after 2" Auto Spring level kit and add-a-leaf in the rear (mine is 2010 XLT SCREW 44k mi. with like new front end components)
If you opt for the lower control arm bolt removal procedure (as per Auto Spring instructions ) not sure if bolt can be put back in exact position and will need a camber adjustment at the alignment shop. To avoid this issue I opted to go with tie rod end end disconnect method (leaving camber adjustment untouched).
Auto spring instructions stated wheels will be towed in after install so before (and after install) I took measurements on the front alignment using string method thinking i could at least see what way wheels were off i.e. 1/16" , 1/4" or more & adjust tie rod ends to a somewhat close measurement to the stock original measurement so i don't chew tire on way to alignment center. But after install the readings were dead spot on to stock measurements - no tow in! So took long test drive with no pulling. Unless alignment machines detect smaller than 1/64th of inch on tow IN & OUT will 1/64th or less be enough to matter ....... alignment shops are glad to take the $$ to give piece of mind.
For now I will just be checking my front tires for wear going forward .
ps - Only down side to the tie rod disconnect method it gives less clearance for strut replacement in that bottom control arm pocket ( took some persuasion but got it in with help of a modified crowbar on driver side only -pass side slid in easier with sledge hammer & big screw driver).

 

Throwing the camber off is why I keep saying to leave the UCA/LCA bolts alone. I'm not sure why these videos and printed instructions keep saying to loosen one or the other up.
Another thing I keep seeing, is when reinstalling the IWE, no one except Maculocco shows how to realign the teeth, or use a torque wrench when tightening the spindle nut. Two pretty important things to do right.

 

Those instructions are Probably suggesting because removing that lower control arm bolt will give more clearance to install the strut ( in my situation I probably wouldn’t need the hammer and crowbar if I lowered the c arm)
Those who are putting 2.5” + spacers will probably not be able to fit the longer strut in without dropping that lower Control arm.

 

Hmmm, I just did 2.25" on mine 2 months ago. Once I took the spindle nut off, there was more than enough room on either side. Installed top loosely, and used a small pry bar to get the bottom in. Next to no difficulty at all. I even installed Halo lift coilovers at max height on my '12, and left the control arms alone.

 

Good to know info for those removing the spindle nut will give the clearance needed.👍🏻
for those uncomfortable removing that nut on 2.25+ will probably have to drop c arm.

 

John, when you say "realign the teeth" on the IWE, do you mean to clock it? Like you would do with a CV joint? If that's not the case, then what am I missing. If the IWE slides back into the hub and mates up properly, isn't that all the matters?

 

This is how I do it. I'll stick the spindle back in the hub, then turn the rotor and keep inserting the spindle until the teeth mesh, you'll know it when they do.
Ford Tech Makalucco shows the same thing on one of his videos, I'll try to find it.

 

OK, here it is, right about the 14 minute mark.

 

Yep it’s all good.

 

Ok, that's what I thought and that's how I did mine when I installed my 2" Rough Country kit a couple weeks ago.