Level kit and blocks in rear
I used a single piece replacement block (4x4s have a rear block standard that accounts for the height difference between 2wd and 4x4). I used a 3" block to replace the stock ~2" for ~1" of lift. The F150 blocks are "pinned" so that the alignment is fixed in the rear, make sure you get F150 specific blocks that retain this.
The 1" was almost enough to max out my OEM shock travel at full droop, but I've never had any issues while driving or off-road. Unlike an add a leaf, the blocks don't effect the ride quality of the stock leafs.
The 1" was almost enough to max out my OEM shock travel at full droop, but I've never had any issues while driving or off-road. Unlike an add a leaf, the blocks don't effect the ride quality of the stock leafs.
I've been wanting to do this. I have average mechanical skills. Got lots of tools. What kit exactly is everyone using for a level to the front and blocks in the back.
How hard is it to do this and are there any instructions online?
2010 XLT SCEW here
How hard is it to do this and are there any instructions online?
2010 XLT SCEW here
04-08 suspensions are very similiar to the 09-10, and you can follow the instructions pretty much word for word. Autospring and Hell Bent Steel are the two most recommended vendors on here, both sell through ebay. Front leveling kits range from 1-3" in 1/2" increments, most guys get powdercoated steel which should run you around 60-70 bucks. I also got my rear blocks from Autospring on ebay with new ubolts for around 120 IIRC.
There are a few walkthroughs on the different forums, Hell Bent Steel has their instructions online.
You'll need some large sockets, a 1/2" torque wrench, and a breaker bar or impact wrench. A pitman arm puller (~$10) makes it easy to separate the UCA ball joint from the knuckle.
You can figure about an hour a corner if you're not rushing.
There are a few walkthroughs on the different forums, Hell Bent Steel has their instructions online.
You'll need some large sockets, a 1/2" torque wrench, and a breaker bar or impact wrench. A pitman arm puller (~$10) makes it easy to separate the UCA ball joint from the knuckle.
You can figure about an hour a corner if you're not rushing.
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Most people that I've read on here go with either a 2" or a 2.5" AutoSpring front leveling kit and then a 3" rear block. There are numerous threads about leveling kits and plenty of pictures of various peoples' setups for you to decide what you'd like the best. I'm probably going to go this same route when my stock tires die.
That is the setup I have and absolutely love it. Average mechanical skills is enough to install these, pretty simple install. Just get an extra set of hands and it will make it even easier.




