I apologize if this has already been addressed, but I've searched here to no avail.

Anyone know the ignition key specifications? I've got '11 f150.
I've seen reference to 40 and 80 bit keys, "s"marked keys and "sa" marked keys and have read quite a few Amazon reviews where the purchased keys did not match the specifications for the vehicles. Any other spec's in addition to those I just mentioned? Any tips where to look for this info?

Just need to know what exactly I need to be looking for.

Also- I recently disabled the seatbelt dinger (no tools or forscan needed).
TIP: Be sure to pull your parking brake pedal all the way back to the "off" position (ie, if you just pull the release, the actual pedal may still be engaged in the ecu's eyes).
Gosh, thought I was going to have to listen to the incessant parking brake dinger for all eternity! LOL

 

This is the actual key. Anything else is questionable.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-201...-/400622189183

 

You need the 80 bit version with SA stamped on the key shank.

 

yep, this. When I got my used 2012 a few years ago, I got 2 non-fobbed, ford logo keys from eBay. Something like $25 for the pair.

then I got 2 cheap fobs for $8 or so.

 

Thank you!

Much appreciated!

 

Just an update.

I had already purchased this key before posting. I anticipated having to return it, but it worked without a single hitch (again, 2011 f150 xlt)- 24.95 + tax (free prime shipping)

Bought this obd2 adapter- 28.46 + tax
​​​
And, of course, Forscan was free.
So for just over 55 bucks and 12 minutes of my time (forscan security waiting period) I have a working second master key

I took the key to Lowe's to be cut. When I asked if he would cut my key, he said "generally, I don't, but I will."
Didn't charge me, he said they don't charge for cutting keys.🤘🏻

 

I've had three outcomes at Lowes.
1. They didn't charge me at all.
2. They wanted me to buy/pay for a basic key to cut mine, I thought that was fair, paid for a basic key, $2-3.
3. They wouldn't cut it at all, didn't want the "liability" if they mis-cut or screwed up my key.

 

Salty, I'm guessing you're not looking anymore, but maybe this info will help someone in the future? Strattec is the OEM supplier, I just installed the remote start in my '13 xlt and during my search for parts and 4 button remote/keys, I ended buying the remote start kit (part# BC3Z-19G364-A ) from a Ford dealership because there are many sellers taking the chip out of OEM keys (I'm guessing they are pre-owned chips) and putting them in non-Strattec clone bodies. May be a reason to fork over the exorbitant fee for an OEM key from a reputable source? Ebay kit I got for $250 shipped, that's $30 for the antenna, and about $110/key. (That said, Spiky's source looks like it might be a good way to save $$ on a key...)

Another issue I ran into this week is that nobody in my area is willing to cut the keys that I brought in. Ace Hardware, Lowe's, and Home Depot all have policies now that say they wont cut a transponder key that is not bought from them (at a significant markup). I ended up making a template of my original key and using a combination of dremel and hand files to cut my own OEM key. It works great, so yay! (The key pattern is pretty simple, the real security is the PATS system, not the key cylinder)
Also learned that the OEM remote/key buttons cannot be programmed using the "8x ignition turn and press a button" method they have to be programmed in Forscan or at the dealership all at once with the transponder, whereas the non-Strattec keys can be programmed like a standalone keyless entry FOB. I've read somewhere that you must have a minimum of 2 OEM (i.e. Strattec) keys programmed in order to be able to run and drive the truck, so I wanted to make sure that I have at least two so I can wipe out the phantom key that was missing when I bought the truck.