Does anyone know how to rewire the headlight switch so the fog lights come on with the brights? I have no use for fog lights and want to put driving lights in there and operate them with the fog light switch and have them go out when I dim for oncoming traffic.

 

I don't have a wiring diagram handy, but if you pull the switch & the harness off you can test it with an ohm meter, which is usually a test mode on any voltage meter, by putting the switch in the fog lamp mode & checking the pins. your ground should be wherever the green wire is on the harness, that should be your ground pin on the switch (for the black lead on the tester) & there may be 2+ hot pins as the parking lights come on to with the fogs. so you'll have to check it both ways - once without the fogs but parking lights on & then pull the switch to find the one for the fogs.

 

What year is your truck? In the newer styles, I do not think it is possible. Most of the electronics are controlled by the GEM, and therefore the wiring at most of the switches are nothing more than "signal wires".

This is one reason that nobody has been able to develop a "bambi vision" mod for the newer trucks.

 

It's a 2011. I was surprised to see that some on here have put the Ridgid lights in there and run the original wiring. Seems that that would only work if you are installing other fog lamps.

 

I dont recomend this but you could just switch the high and low beam wires [ cut and splice] at the head light plug right behind each head light this would make the fog light circuit hot when you turned on the high beams and off when you switched to low beam. The down side is the little blue light on the dash would light on the low beam and go off on the high beam.

 

Yeah, I thought of that but my service guy doesn't think the microprocessor in the switch would be fooled by that. I also find it surprising that when you take the switch out and unplug it, the headlights come on. It also says on the wiring harness to not cut or splice into these wires.
I did find this but it's over my head:
http://www.raptorforumz.com/archive/...hp/t-1747.html

 

The only solution that I can think of is cutting the power wire to the fog lamps at the light, and then "makin" a whole new circuit by using two relays one a normally closed relay that would use the low beam wire as it's switch. the output of that relay would go to the foglamps. The second relay would gets its switch power from parking lights, and its main source of power from the battery fused at about 30 amps. The purpose of the second relay is to keep the lights from being on alll the time. By doing that, anytime the parking lamps on, the relay to the fog lamps will have power. BUT when you have the low beams on, that relay would loose power, causing the foglights to go off. Alot of wiring, but that would work..

 

Has this been done yet?

On the two 2003 F-150s I had my buddy at Ford hook me up so my fogs would come on with my corners and stay on with my high beams. What he did was cut the fog light relay wire off the switch and tapped it onto the parking light wire. This used the corner light circuit to trigger the relay for the fogs and they worked with the corners and high beams.

Can this be done with the 09+, most importantly the 2013? If not, I will just wire the the fogs to there own harness and active the relay with power from the corner lights.

Wayne

 

I installed a lightbar this week and configured it so the light bar is activated via relay when the highbeams are on. I also spliced into the fogs so they will come on also. So without a lightbar you would just hook the relay to the highs and if you replaced them with another light just cut the power to the fogs and connect with the highbeam relay. Only 1 relay needed that way.

Another option to consider is rigid now has d2's and select light bars with a high/low feature. Low is 20% output of high.

 

Could you supply a rough wiring diagram on how you did this? Maybe just a copy of the diagram you got from the lightbar maker?