Glove compartment
05-22-2016, 03:39 PM
#32
Senior Member
Storing a gun, unlocked, in any vehicle is irresponsible.
05-22-2016, 04:20 PM
#33
Senior Member
It's not as easy as you'd think to find one, at least for a 2009 to 2014. I looked for about 3 months and actually someone from the forum here reached out knowing I was looking for one. Well worth the wait!
05-24-2016, 01:45 AM
#34
Senior Member
My fully-loaded 2012 F-150 Lariat SuperCrew did not come with a glove compartment light. Easy fix - -7L7Z-14413-A, glove compartment light switch, (found on the Lincoln Navigator or the Ford Expedition with the same glove compartment. [Ford knows the superpower ability to see in the dark that we F-150 drivers possess!] Just change out the latch striker for the one with the light switch. And the replacement bulb is the 194 Miniature bulb. Power it up with an ADD-A-CIRCUIT Fuse Block Extension ATM MINI FUSE TAP. It will fit the low profile fuse box in the right side kick panel of the passenger compartment (just below and to the right of the glove compartment). If you want to get fancy, visit your local junkyard and salvage that piece of the wiring harness, off of a dead Navigator or Expedition. 2007 to 2013 is what you are looking for to do the trick.
Would love to know more about how you did this.
05-24-2016, 10:30 AM
#35
2014 FX4 owner here. Like many, am very concerned about security, and stuff that I leave in my truck. So I got the Ford Console Safe for my front console (see pics/cut a hole in the OE change tray so I could still use that), and ALSO got a 2-way Viper Alarm System, even including a sensor on the back glass window of my ARE cap (there is a push switch where if the back window is opened, the alarm goes off). The alarm system was pretty pricey ($500+), but it's worth it to me. It's supposed to be good for up to a mile....haven't tested that, so I don't know how far away it will really work....but if that alarm goes off, my LCD display on my key fob will let me know.
As a funny side note, on my OEM console lid, when you lift it up, there is a place designated to put your cell phone....why you would ever put it under the lid is perplexing in itself, because if the phone rings, you'd have to lift up the console lid to get to it; Lol.....but the size of the little space is miniscule (1"x3"). I dunno...maybe you're supposed to just clip the phone in there somehow.
Finally, yes, the actual glove box is very small and doesn't hold too much.
As a funny side note, on my OEM console lid, when you lift it up, there is a place designated to put your cell phone....why you would ever put it under the lid is perplexing in itself, because if the phone rings, you'd have to lift up the console lid to get to it; Lol.....but the size of the little space is miniscule (1"x3"). I dunno...maybe you're supposed to just clip the phone in there somehow.
Finally, yes, the actual glove box is very small and doesn't hold too much.
05-30-2016, 05:08 AM
#36
40-year Ford Customer
- one for the original circuit, and
- one for your new circuit)
then plug the prongs back into the fuse box, where you pulled the fuse out. The original circuit is restored, and you now have added a new circuit for your project. Your HOT Red lead has a crimp connection to connect to the HOT side of your new circuit.
In my Glove Compartment Light example (Above) the 7L7Z-14413-A latch switch wire harness piece I salvaged from the junk yard has two wires (Yellow and Black - - Yellow is HOT and Black is GROUND.
Connect / Crimp the Yellow wire to the Add-A-Circuit HOT Red lead crimp wire to complete the circuit.
Connect the Black wire to a suitable Chassis Ground Point.
When the glove compartment door is open, the light will shine. When you close the door latch, the light is switched off. Take care to double-check that the door latch is engaging the switch bar and turns the light out. If you don't, you could end up with a drain on your battery and a dead battery. I had to do some creative customizing to the switch bar to be sure the latch post was contacting the bar and turning the light out when the door closed. The door latch post was sliding under the bar, So I glued a piece of popscicle stick to the bar making it wide enough to catch on the latch post and engage the switch to turn off the light when the door closes. Touch it up with some black paint if you desire.
Center Floor Console - Add A Light Project # 2
I also found an E3TZ-14413-A switch [1984 to 1988 Ford Bronco II - - New Old Stock ] Glove Compartment Switch and Wire Assembly. (This switch comes with the wires hard-wired (also Yellow and Black). I drilled a 5/8" circle in the lip edge of the center floor console to mount the switch where it contacts the lid to work the switch. [The replacement bulb is 1893 - - My local NAPA Auto Parts store had plenty in stock. I grabbed a half a dozen to be sure I won't have trouble finding these later. Also drilled a whole in the right bottom corner of the console to pass through the wires, and ran them out of sight under the bottom edge of the center console, next to the passenger seat, along the floor edge of the center console, up and behind the glove box, and over to the fuse box. Used a 2nd Add a Circuit to energize the light and also used the same grounding point as the glove box light. I now have plenty of light in my Glove Box and in my Center Floor Console.
No more fumbling around in the dark!!!
NOTES: For my two ADD-A-CIRCUIT Fuse Block Extension ATM MINI FUSE TAPS, (My Source was on ebay I got 5 for $9.95 and free shipping 6 days turnaround (This was over a weekend).
I used Fuse # 11 - 10 Amp (Red) Instrument Cluster
to add the 7L7Z-14413-A Glove Box Compartment Lamp/Switch circuit; and
I used Fuse # 4 Interior Lighting - 10 Amp (Red)
for the E3TZ-14413-A Switch and Wire Assembly Center Floor Console light circuit.
7L7Z-14413-A on ebay for around $32.00
Replacemet Bulb for 7L7Z-14413-A is Bulb # 194.
SYLVANIA 10 pack on ebay for $11.51 and free shipping - 5 days turnaround
E3TZ-14413-A on ebay for around $20.00 and free shipping 3 days turnaround. Replacemet Bulb for E3TZ-14413-A is Bulb # 1893.
I found some at NAPA Auto parts local store for $1.64 each bulb.
Also at NAPA Auto parts local store; I picked up some 16 gauge Yellow wire for my Hot side connections and 16 gauge Black wire for my Ground connections - - $7.49 each roll.
Small Stuff - - The HOT Yellow wire is actually Yellow with a Green Stripe
and the GROUND Black wire is Black with a Grey stripe on the 7L7Z-14413-A salvaged harness and Black with white letters on the E3TZ-14413-A wire. Hope this is helpful.
05-30-2016, 05:16 AM
#37
Senior Member
Thanks for the added detail and all the part numbers! I'm going to look into this. I added an extra fuse box behind the glove box for my cameras, will be the shortest wire I've ever ran. (: