Originally Posted by Chad1972

Fixed mine permanently!! And for$0.00. You need to remove the fuel door assembly, the door comes off of the flat part by lifting up the little tab located inside the door and sliding the outside cover off. Remove the (3) 8mm head bolts that attach the neck to the filler door assembly. From behind the assembly tou have to reach up from the inner fender and push the plastic latches that hold the assembly in place. I could only reach two so I pried the assembly out with a screwdriver wrapped in a rag. What I found out after this is, there is a plastic pin that holds the door in place with a spring attached to it. The pin somehow worked it's way up and let the door flop around. What you have to do is remove some of the plastic from around where the pins goes through the bottom of the assembly. About 1/8" will do. You just need a bit more of the pin sticking out than before. Put a washer on the end of the pin and drill a small hole through the plastic pin just above the washer. I took a paperclip and straightened it and put it through the hole above the washer and bent it into an "S" shape to keep it from coming out. This holds the washer down and keeps the pin in place. If someone can tell me hopw to post pics I will.

Originally Posted by FAPinHouston

Thanks - about to go fix this myself now. Was quoted $290 for replace the bowl and spring at the stealership that I was having my AC fixed at today. (didn't manage to get it fixed yet, and then they pranged my front fender against another truck) Told me 4 days to get in line to have the resistor changed - Large, National Ford Dealer on West side of Houston - I 10. I am so done with relying on them to fix stuff.....

Originally Posted by Chad1972

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