meaz93

Homey not into round mound!

iRub1Out

I'm picturing like 2 huge ladies in the bed of a newer F150 - its squatting, the HLs are squirrel hunting, and the license plate says "TUB TUB" - someone needs to 'shop that up lol

...with a "f150forum.com" sticker on the back glass.

jeffp

had the truck into the dealer. They senior tech who seemed to know his stuff heard the pop from park to reverse and the multiple pops when maneuvering. they did tsb 14-009 which oasis (not sure what that is) said takes the place of 13-7-7. Adjusted pinion preload, shim, seal, bolts, slinger and oil.


based on what others are saying I anticipate its return and I saw some oil on the differential so I hope that is just some overflow rather than a leak.

brettd4x4

yea mine started making the noise again, the bandaid lasted 7500 miles.

philmiami

All the **** they did,replace drive shaft and STILL hard, very hard shifts 1-2 under load (on the gas) and start-stop (traffic)
Going to go route of Florida Lemon Law because this was a Certified Pre-Owned when I bought it in 12-2011 and have had this problem since then and been in dealerships for same problem, over and over again
just too pissed about it
too much of a problem
it is the YOKE unloading/sticking and it is ALSO inside the transmission
even with new drive shaft

xcntrk

Anybody have more information on this TSB, I can't find it anywhere. Closest one is Ford TSB-14-0009 which is for some Lincoln dash light issue.

gbual

I finally got time to go in and get the TSB done for my f150. Took about 2 hours for the work to be done. After driving it for a hour, the click is gone. I do expect it to come back as per the experiences of other users. For now though it is a much better drive. The truck is way more responsive when I press the gas and rides a lot smoother.

firejimcf

FORD: 2011-2014 F-150

This article supersedes TSB 13-7-7 to update the vehicle model application, model years, Part List and Service Procedure.

ISSUE:

Some 2011-2014 F-150 vehicles built on 1/1/2011 and through 4/1/2014 may exhibit an intermittent click or snap-type noise from the rear axle on initial light acceleration from a stop while in drive or reverse. The noise may also occur on light acceleration after changing direction from drive to reverse, or reverse to drive.
ACTION:

Follow the Service Procedure steps to correct the condition.
SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Does the vehicle exhibit a single click or snap-type noise from the rear axle on light acceleration after the initial engagement into Drive or Reverse, or after stopping to reverse vehicle direction?
   1. Yes - proceed to Step 2.
   1. No - this article does not apply. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 205-00 for normal diagnostics.

1. Is the noise heard at the rear driveshaft universal joint area?
   1. Yes - apply a few drops of Motorcraft® Penetrating and Lock Lubricant to each of the driveshaft universal joint retaining clips, wipe off the excess and retest. If the noise is resolved the repair is complete. Release vehicle to the customer. If the noise is still present proceed to Step 3.
   1. No - proceed to Step 3.

1. With the vehicle in neutral, position it on a hoist. Refer to WSM, Section 100-02.

1. Index-mark the driveshaft flange and pinion flange for correct alignment during installation.
2. Remove and discard the four (4) driveshaft flange bolts.
3. Disconnect the driveshaft centering socket yoke from the pinion flange.
4. Support and position the driveshaft aside.
5. Remove the rear disc brake calipers and support them out of the way to allow the axles to rotate freely. Refer to WSM, Section 206-04.
   1. It is not necessary to remove the brake lines from the brake calipers for this procedure.
6. Rotate the rear axle pinion and record the turning torque with the differential and axle shafts installed.
7. Remove the rear pinion flange, pinion seal, and oil slinger. Refer to WSM, Section 205-02B, In-Vehicle Repair, Drive Pinion Flange and Drive Pinion Seal.
   1. It is critical to follow the WSM procedure to press the pinion flange off and on to prevent damage to the pinion flange.

1. Replace the oil slinger with a new oil slinger.

1. Lubricate both faces of the shim with Motorcraft® Premium Long-Life Grease.

1. Install shim, pinion seal, and pinion flange. Refer to WSM, Section 205-02B.

1. Adjust rear pinion preload to ± 0.14 kg/cm (2 lb-in) from the initial pinion turning torque recorded in Step 9.
   1. Used bearings require a lower preload than new bearings.

1. Install the rear disc brake calipers. Refer to WSM, Section 206-04.

1. Position the driveshaft to the pinion flange and align the index marks. (Figure 1)

1.  
   1. Install four (4) new driveshaft flange bolts and tighten to 103 Nm (76 lb-ft).
      1. If new bolts are not available, coat the threads of the original driveshaft flange bolts with Motorcraft® Threadlock and Sealer.
      1. The driveshaft centering socket yoke fits tightly on the pinion flange. To make sure the driveshaft centering socket yoke seats squarely on the pinion flange, tighten the driveshaft flange bolts evenly in a cross pattern.

CdnBakon

XCNTRk, this just dawned on me. Read your last post here:

https://www.f150forum.com/f38/rear-end-clink-clank-tink-squeak-when-shifting-fix-262984/

The tsb calls for the removal of the wheel and calipers, so the axle can be turned freely. Why would they do that and not just turn the wheels? They must turn it via the rotor or studs. Either way.... That's how it could affect the e-brake parts. Fact is, the rotor is loose when the caliper is off. This may be how it temporarily loosens pins. Eventually when they re-settle, they make the noise again. My clicking has never come back. I dunno.

Masi1926

My click is back, after roughly 400 miles.. Only, it just clicks once, when going from reverse into drive.
As long as it doesn't get worse, I'm okay with it. Everything else drivetrain wise is flawless.