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Driver’s window problems.

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Old Aug 11, 2022 | 10:14 PM
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Default Driver’s window problems.

I’m chasing a gremlin in my 2014 tremmor that has my driver’s window . I replaced the switch, the regulator motor, and the wire harness/jumper assembly. No change. I noticed a bit of corrosion where the jumper plugs into the door pillar. I looked for a rotten ground wire but it’s extremely tight in there and honestly wasn’t sure what to look for.
The relay and all three fuses work, but when I jump the relay in the fuse box, and press the window switch there’s a clicking sound under the dash underneath the stereo. Is there another relay in there? It doesn’t make that noise when the relay is in place. Passenger window works fine.
I’ve seen plenty of people with this problem in earlier models and they bypass the otd and fixed the problem. The other weird thing is that the rear view camera cuts out intermittently (usually right when the cat walks behind the vehicle)
it seems like Anyone with a newer truck who has had this problem and presented it on this forum, was confronted with sarcasm and told to go to the dealer. Does Anyone out there have any ideas besides bending over and kissing my wallet goodbye.?
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Old Aug 11, 2022 | 11:15 PM
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You never really say what is wrong with the window. Totally dead, intermittent issue, etc..
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 12:34 AM
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You have damaged wires. In the rear for the camera, and in the door jamb for the door issues. You have to remove or peel back the various types of covering on the wires, find the damaged wire, fix them.

We talk about this all the time and I don't recall people saying go to the dealer. We tend to say the opposite. But, if this tone is how you're gonna do it. most of us will stop responding. Just so you know. Because we already get that **** at home and come here for something else.
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 01:32 AM
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Default Accidental attitude apology.

Originally Posted by Spiky
You have damaged wires. In the rear for the camera, and in the door jamb for the door issues. You have to remove or peel back the various types of covering on the wires, find the damaged wire, fix them.

We talk about this all the time and I don't recall people saying go to the dealer. We tend to say the opposite. But, if this tone is how you're gonna do it. most of us will stop responding. Just so you know. Because we already get that **** at home and come here for something else.
whoa I didn’t realize that I brought my frustrations to the forum, and certainly didn’t mean to attack anyone who owns a ford. I was just getting that $h1! At home too! Now I get it. Let me start over.
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 01:54 AM
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Default Totally dead window

Last winter my drivers window stopped working after a big storm where snow got packed into the door jamb during a slide for life where too much snow on the windshield required that I hang out the cab with the door open to steer my truck to safety. Since then the drivers window does nothing. New harness, new motor, new switch, still nothing. I thought maybe the window and the rear camera shared a ground, but I’m probably wrong. I do hear a clicking noise in the dash below the stereo when I bypass the relay in the fuse panel. But when the relay is in place, the switch does nothing.
Is there another relay in the dash by the stereo?
Do the window and camera share a ground?
Is there a common spot where the camera wires break? I’m not the greatest trouble shooter, but I’m determined to fix this. And I could use some help.
Here’s a picture of one response that prompted my aggressive first post. I don’t know why I took that personal, I just wanted real help.

Actually some people are kinda snooty.
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 02:15 AM
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Might need to start narrowing down stuff, like put power directly to the motor, start connecting multi meters/test probes to the wiring at various stages and see where you lose power or something.

Lots of the plugs Ford use seem to get corroded, but unless it's really bad, you can't see any issue with them. My truck is not from an area that rusts, but there have been a few plugs that i've needed to disconnect, smear dielectric grease in there and reconnect before something would start working properly.

As it happens, the plug near the rear camera itself is not good and can get water in there, so is a good candidate for pulling, cleaning and greasing.


(Ignore that it's for an explorer, it's not like Ford do it differently because it's a truck)

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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 05:04 AM
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This is the plug from cab to door for my right door, the 2 pins that are corroded are the power wire and the ground for the window. No power or ground for a motor it will not work. Those wires can be replaced without doing the whole harness.

The 2 at the bottom left need to be replaced.
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by miracleman
Last winter my drivers window stopped working after a big storm where snow got packed into the door jamb during a slide for life where too much snow on the windshield required that I hang out the cab with the door open to steer my truck to safety. Since then the drivers window does nothing. New harness, new motor, new switch, still nothing.
You previously stated there was some corrosion in the door jam connector. I would pull the connector off the motor and check these wires:
RED - 12V all times from fuse 1
GRN/VIO - 12V when key is on
BLK/VIO - Ground

If you're not 100% how to check them please ask. Also, did you replace just to motor or the entire regulator?
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Old Aug 12, 2022 | 12:44 PM
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Default New motor

Originally Posted by Mamushka
You previously stated there was some corrosion in the door jam connector. I would pull the connector off the motor and check these wires:
RED - 12V all times from fuse 1
GRN/VIO - 12V when key is on
BLK/VIO - Ground

If you're not 100% how to check them please ask. Also, did you replace just to motor or the entire regulator?
I only replaced the motor and not the regulator. Just for fun, I tested the old motor and it still works. I did see some corroded wires where the door harness plugs into the cab, and had a hell of a time trying to get them out of there. I ended up taking the e-brake assembly off thinking I could get better access to the backside of that plug, but it was like 7 degrees outside and I honestly don’t remember how it went. What is the easiest way to replace those corroded wires?
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