Yes, I measured at the connector...very imprecisely. I was doing it pretty much in the dark and holding a flashlight just to verify there was voltage. Entirely possible I didn't have the points connected solidly. I will retest. Unfortunately, with my model year I have to pull the valve cover to get at the solenoid. Which isn't terrible but not as handy. I will definitely pull the cover and get the solenoid tested properly. I'm going to have a Motorcraft solenoid on hand so I can swap if need be at that time. I've been going over and over in my head on the issue. I've read that failed phasers or timing issue can throw the code...but I've also read exactly what you've stated that it's an electrical fault not a mechanical fault (meaning it's not triggered by the failed phaser). And there is no rough idle, it starts normal. It does "tick" but I literally can see two missing manifold bolts so...could be that. I don't really know but with. it running essentially normal aside from sluggish acceleration from stop and bad mileage, I'm hoping the diagnostics showing bad cats are the issue. I got the new manifolds delivered today so next week I'll have the joy of that experience. Exhaust system should be in next week and I'll install. In the meantime, I'll be pulling that solenoid and doing all the elect. tests you've recommended. I'll let you know what I find. Thanks for the help!!!

 

Actually...re-reading your response...I think you mean check the solenoid while installed for resistance. I can do that without removing. Duh.

 

Yes, leave the valve cover on.

Is P0010 your only code now? I believe you're more likely to throw P0011 or 12 (bank 1) or P0021 or 22 (bank 2) with a phaser failure. If you're new vct solenoid tests ok I'd focus on the connector. At least rock auto has a "Standard Motors" equivalent for half the price the MOTORCRAFT WPT1325 connector. Wasn't an option for me when I just replaced both connectors and vct solenoids on bank 1.

I think I would try to sort this before the new cats go on. You might be dumping fuel into your exhaust presently.

 

Got on it today in better light...
Checked voltage to both banks -- assuming one side is good since there is no code. Both sides read 8.68 volts. Ignition on, engine not started.

Measured ohms and got 3,43 (k -- my multimeter sets ohms to auto and displays the measurement used after the reading). So 3.43 k is...3430 ohms I believe?

No other codes displayed. A little more detail on the codes. At startup, I get the CEL. I read the codes and three display...all P0010. One is permanent, one is stored, one is pending. Of course, I can use the reader to erase the pending and then only the permanent and stored remain. The pending code does not return and set a new check engine light when driving. I'm no expert on codes but I have, in the past, cleared a code and it would return during the same drive. This isn't doing that and makes me wonder. I've researched best I can the stored/permanent codes and appears that when those codes exist, they will not clear until the issue is resolved. To determine that, the system runs a pending code check to ensure the issue was fixed.

Could it be something as stupid as the pending code I'm getting is triggered by the stored/permanent codes in the system and, for whatever reason, I'm not doing a correct drive cycle to clear them? I've driven the vehicle up to 35-40 miles one-way (so about 70-80 round-trip) on several occassions. I don't think I've been on the highway with it but county roads at 65 mph or so plus some in-town driving. Seems like that would satisfy a drive cycle.

Another thought: Last fall, I needed an alternator. I got one from O'Reilly. Installed and the truck did not like it. Battery codes, etc. Took it back out and returned. It tested completely fine on their bench test. Swapped for another one just in case. Same deal. Codes and strange issues. Returned it again for a refund and got a different brand from another parts store. Installed, zero issues. All of the checks were fine on the previous two...it was showing voltage while running to appropriate specs. It bench-tested fine. But the truck hated it.

I'm wondering...if I might have the same scenario with this solenoid. It's testing okay. But the truck doesn't like it. I think my next step here is a different solenoid brand (Motorcraft most likely if I can find one local). Pull the valve cover and install it.

I'm not really sure what else to do at this point. If that check engine light wasn't on, I'd have no indication there is a VCT issue. Truck idles smooth. Starts fine. Accelarate from stop sluggish but, again, the O2 readings on both 2 sensors are jumping all over indicating failed cats. Once up to speed, it acts like it always has. Gas mileage is down but when cruising at 60, the instant readout shows 19-20 mpg. I know those aren't always reliable but it's all I've got to go on. When accelerating, it drops like a stone in mpg.

 

I think your ohmns reading is actually 3.43, but not positive, if it is, that's probably too low. I don't know enough about codes either to tell you whether your issue is really resolved with your description above. I hope someone else will. You can check the ohms on your old ones if you still have them for reference. I'd say at least at this point your connectors are good.

I added a video to the end "my" VCT thread as there isn't a video exactly like it out there.

2011 5.0 VCT solenoid replacement, Coyote valve cover off pics. - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans

 

Solved...got a replacement solenoid from Napa and made sure it was a different manufacturer than the Oreilly solenoid. Installed and fixed. Code gone. Permanent and stored codes gone.
so my lesson here is no oreilly parts that have any circuits or electrical components. They just don’t seem to be compatible with the 5.4.

Thank you for the help!

 

I would consider that being a 18 year old truck I would expect to put $5K into the truck after purchasing it, however having 200,000 miles on the odometer I would maybe reconsider and cut your losses, take the $3500 consider the $2200 loss a lesson you’ve learned.