Hello all --

FIrst, wanted to say thank you to all the forum members here. I'm newly registered (and my first post) but I have benefitted greatly from your knowledge and assistance. Here's what I've got going...2010 crew, 5.4. It rolled over 300K about a month ago and my goal is to get this thing to 500K. Original motor and trans. I've done quite a bit of "normal" jobs on it...suspension parts, AC compressor, etc.

About a month ago, I was getting intermittent O2 sensor codes. A bit after, started getting P0010. I'm pretty good with regular maintenance including oil changes. I've typically only used Motorcraft's oil but have occassionally used another synthetic blend if there happen to be a special or something going.

Thanks to a lot of help and research from this forum, I felt comfortable tackling the P0010 code and replacing the VCT solenoids as it appeared they were likely the issue. I figured with 300k on the motor, there could be some sludge, etc. and blocked or just failed solenoids. There was certainly some varnish on the interior of the motor but it didn't appear too be too beyond what might be expected. I didn't see any evidence of actual sludge. I did and engine flush prior to pulling the solenoids and the oil really wasn't very impressive in terms of "stuff" coming out. It looked like a normal oil change albeit darker oil.

The solenoids I pulled didn't appear to be in terrible shape. The screens seemed okay. I wish I had hooked them up to power to see if they were functioning but didn't. Anyway, I replaced with solenoids from O'Reilly's and Auto Zone (they didn't have two of the same in stock). I also changed the camshaft position sensor on Bank 1 as that's the bank the code indicated.

Other info: Over the past month I've noticed a marked reduction in MPG. Acceleration is also sluggish. Again, thanks to knowledge from this forum, I use my code reader to monitor the O2 sensors as I was still getting an intermittent 02 code. The 1 sensors on both banks were not showing as expected and since the codes were for those front sensors, they were replaced. I again monitored and the problem was resolved. However, the 2 sensors on both banks are not behaving correctly. They do not produce the "steady" line as they should in live data. They bounce all over and would indicate bad cats. Not a surprise I guess at 300k as they are the original cats. I had also noticed more smell from the exhaust, etc. So...in my mind...it adds up. Bad fuel economy, sluggish acceleration, bad live data from the rear O2 sensors. Bad cats.

But...I'm still getting that P0010 code even after replacing both VCT solenoids. It's showing Bank 1...which is passenger side if I understand correctly. I've used my multimeter to check if there is voltage to the solenoid and it shows about 6-8. Did the same for the camshaft position sensor and it's showing voltage. So I'm assuming that to mean it's not an elec. issue.

I'm prepared to replace the cats and since it has the standard broken bolt on the manifold, I'll do the whole system. It's beyond time for it.

But that P0010 code has me concerned. I don't want to drop the money on a full exhaust only to learn the P0010 code wasn't just a solenoid but something with the phasers or timing itself. My plan is to pull the valve cover on that bank and test the solenoid for function by connecting it to external power. I'll also do a fresh oil change just to eliminate that as a potential issue.

Is there anyting else I should be/could be checking on this? I certainly can take to a dealer and have them diagnose. But, to be honest, I don't know that I have a dealer local that I would fully trust to tell me if it's a bad solenoid (even though it's new, I understand sometimes they can be bad). I should have went with a Motorcraft solenoid in the first place...anyway, a dealer could tell me it needs phasers and timing belt, etc. and I'd have no way of knowing otherwise.

I'm not aware of any live data I could monitor to determine if the solenoid is failing. The truck starts just fine. Runs and drives fine. Idle is smooth. I can't hear any unusual noise. It does have that diesel/tick sound..but it's also got at least one broken manifold bolt and possibly more that I can't see underneath. It's sounded this way since I got it at 110,000 miles. It's quite sluggish to accelerate from a stop and that has gotten worse over the past week or so. But at highway speed, no issue really. I can be going 60, step on it and it'll downshift and go. Not like new of course...but it's a long way from new and, again, it appears from the data that the cats (both of them) are shot.

Thanks all...any insight is greatly appreciated.

 

So, good luck getting that to 500k, you'll be doing very well to do so.

I would check your valve springs when you're having a look, and also look for all the related videos for this engine on the Fordtechmakuloco channel - he does a lot of very in-depth analysis vids to determine which of the many parts that fail on these engines that you need to replace.

 

Thanks -- yep I've pretty much had his videos going while doing the work I've done. He's a great resource. I'm not entirely sure what I'd be looking for regarding the valve springs but will research it. I'm very seriously considering going ahead and doing the timing kit. I'm certain with the mileage that it's likely got one or more of the common issues with the 5.4 and I "think" with the 4-part video he's done, I can likely handle the job. For me it's really a matter of math...it'll be around $2,500 for the full exhaust and the timing kit. If that can get me another 100,000 miles or more then that's much better than looking for something in the $25,000-$30,000 range which is where we're at here for anything under 120,000 miles.

 

I'm remembering more now, i think it's a rocker to check, not the spring per sé, it's in on of his more recent videos on the issues.

 

Ah yes that makes sense...I watched the videos a couple of times now and I "think" I can tackle it. I'll likely have several new rockers on hand and just assume some will be worn. I was a bit confused in the video though..he clearly illustrates which rockers to remove but then at the end of the video 4, says to re-install all 24...so I'm not sure if he misspoke of if you actually do remove them all? Researching that to find out.

Thanks for the response. I appreciate any advice or input.

 

Have a look for 5.4 related videos from the past 10 months, not just the "here's how to do the repair job" videos, there are diagnosis vids you'll want to watch for more up to date info as well as doing the checks you'll want to do.

 

Good luck, you're going to need it. I have a buddy who tried that. He bought a 1997 new and drove it 23 years and just over 400,000 miles. He ended up paying to have his transmission rebuilt and had to install a remanufactured engine to get to 400,000. The new engine just never had the power he needed and he finally gave up and sold it to buy a new one. He got next to nothing out of it. Had he sold it 10 years earlier instead of spending $8000-$10,000 in repairs he could have gotten $12,00-$14,000 or so out of it. Keeping it was a $20,000 to $25,000 mistake.

 

Ha -- yeah that's not at all what I'm talking about. No luck needed really at ali. It's just common sense and understanding how to make a sound decision. Adding a motor or transmission really doesn't fit either one. I won't be replacing any motor or transmission. Got it to 300k with very minimal effort and figure common sense and understanding what to do when and what not to do gets it to 500k. It seems like a lot of folks who "know" vehicles have the most troubles and makes me wonder if isn't because they tend to mess with things when they shouldn't. Again, it's pretty basic math. I can spend $2,000 and do what needs to be done. Bought the truck for $14,000. Will end up getting more than 360,000 miles out of it (had about 140 or so when I bought it) and I'll be roughly $45,000 ahead easily.
And, of course, the first mistake was made at the time of purchase. Buying any vehicle new is an immediate financial loss.

 

Why do people always focus on the resale minute and ignore the usage years? Would the alternate vehicle that he would have used for that decade been free? Because that's the assumption you've made in your calculation.

 

I just went through this on my 5.0, but the same principles apply. P0010 only sets with an electrical issue at a VCT solenoid on bank 1. P0020 means same on bank 2.

Take your multimeter and set it to 200m on the ohms setting and touch the two prongs on the VCT solenoid to check resistance. Should be 5-15 ohms I believe. A "1" or nothing on the read out means dead solenoid. You can use the red buzzer setting too on the multimeter. Buzz good no buzz bad.

You said 6-8 volts at the connector? And that's key on engine off? My intake solenoid was dead, but I still had 9.5 volts showing at the connector, it was my resistance test that proved it was dead. If you have 6 volts with the key on, I'd say that's low and could be your code issue. Again, P0010 means electrical issue at the solenoid, only way to set that code. So it's solenoid, connector, wiring or PCM. Failure probably in that order.
​​​​