do I swap them no matter what if mine dont have the ears........Looking at a pic of the ones I bought and I dont think they have the ears like the pics.

Again not gonna know and I need to just relax till I can get home and check for sure... but I have had pads before without the ears....both look same.

again I just gotta relax another couple hrs and check this evening.

If i dont see an issue with pads I will replace the brake hose....another way to test that is to open the bleeder valve and see if letting off the pressure helps release the caliper...

 

I have had pads without ears, but they were still shaped different for inside/outside. The outside pads must be smaller to fit. The topside of the plate should have an angled instead of a squared edge. Now that I think about it, I have some sitting here, I'll try to get a pic.

 

So hard to take pictures of black things. The inside pad will have squared edges all the way around, and generally the rabbit ears. This is the outer pad, with the top beveled.

 

Do you still have the box? Not long ago another member posted about something similar. His new pads had a note in the box stating that the design of the pads had changed and there was no inner or outer pads. They were all the same.

so I’m curious if that’s what you got and what all the brands have gone to...

 

This set has the tabs on the inner pads, so no change.

 

If Caliper has been dragging previously. The heat will ruin brake hoses internally and not allow proper flow.

 

So took apart.... clamped tight! Loosened bleeder valve didnt squirt out like under pressure but when I did get the caliper off I had a hard time pushing the pistons back in...so Im thinking I need to replace the rubber hose. Wil do this weekend. Pistons shouldn't be that hard to push in..especially a nice new caliper. I think I have the hose issue that you guys speak of........

Thank you so much.....

 

Did you get a resolution for this? I have the exact same problem. Front driver side brakes dragging. Pads are installed correctly, new caliper and mount, still dragging. Very hard to press the pistons in for disassembly, but with the bleeder cracked, they press back in easily.

 

Yes a new rubber brake line seem to do the trick,....and just to check when had it off I tried to blow back up the line from the caliper connector toward top of line and it wwas indeed "plugged and air would not flow like the check valves affect they talk about.

still rubbed a little for a day or two but now good.

 

Man, I had the worst issue with my brakes. So like 2 years ago I moved here and you can't work on your car in this neighborhood. My truck had about 80k miles and the brakes were feeling worn and starting to make noise. I took it to a local shop that my dad was friends with the owner. Told them to do a full brake job and bleed the brakes for me. They charged me like $350. Cool. But after the brakes still weren't perfect and still making some noise. Well, less than a year passed and my brakes felt horrible. Pedal would go all the way to the floor sometimes. I was working a lot so kind of just worked with it for a while. But the brakes got loud as hell. Took it back told them to please inspect my calipers and see what I needed to make this right. They charged me $250 and said they changed the front brakes again. Well, it was still horrible after that. Pedal going to the floor, brake noise, everything. So I ordered the PowerStop kit and changed my front brakes myself. Still was pretty bad but a little better. So finally I ordered the PowerStop kit for the rear and did it myself too. What I found made me so damn mad. Can't trust shops. Especially in this city.


After doing the front brakes myself with the PowerStop kit.

This was how the rear brakes looked after 2 brakes jobs at that shop. I could tell no one had loosened these bolts or looked at it in years. And yes, both rotors in the rear were in pieces. Had that quick release version.

After doing my rear brakes and finally being able to brake right.