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i would try take the actuator out and adjust settings and make sure the actuator is indeed turning. Then take your old actuator apart and use the the piece that meshes inside and make sure the door actually turns easily by hand.
I did that, everything thing seems to be fine, door opens by hand, so I know the door is not the problem
I have been told your not suppose to plug the actuators in and change settings unless they are installed, something about the actuator not having resistance so could go to far and brake itself.
You could do this with the old one at no risk if since you are already planning on replacing it.
You also should not try to turn the actuator shaft by hand, you will almost defiantly break it then.
I did do this after I installed the actuator and had no change. Just after that I removed it to see if it was turning. I think I’m just going to order an OEM actuator and try it again
I didnt mean turn the actuator shaft by hand, i meant use the shaft of the old one to turn the door inside the dash. Ive powered on an actuator outside the dash and it was fine, infact ive read people doing this to help mesh the gears so it slides in.
I didnt mean turn the actuator shaft by hand, i meant use the shaft of the old one to turn the door inside the dash. Ive powered on an actuator outside the dash and it was fine, infact ive read people doing this to help mesh the gears so it slides in.
I understood what you meant and I did, the door opens an closes. When I had the actuator out of the dash with power, and I press the climate control button to change from main vents to floor or defrost, the actuator doesn’t move at all, but I know I do have power coming out of the harness, I tested it and I had 4.5V
Do you want wiring diagrams and a break down on what each wire does and what voltage it should have or do you want to start with trying a OEM actuator?
Do you want wiring diagrams and a break down on what each wire does and what voltage it should have or do you want to start with trying a OEM actuator?
Ok here is the wiring diagram and the connector for the actuator, I highlighted the actuator connector number in both pictures.
Pins 1 & 6 are power to the motor to change position.
Pin 5 is not used.
Pins 2, 3, 4 are for the potentiometer to tell the HVAC what position the actuator is in.
Pin 3 should is VREF and should have 4.5V on it.
This is where it gets complicated to diag, pin 2 is a return wire and pin 4 is the signal wire.
As the motor moves the door it swings a bar across the internal potentiometer resister that connects to pin 4, depending on the location of this swing arm along this resister the voltage will being sent to the HVAC on that wire will change, the remaining voltage is sent back on pin 2 to the HVAC.
Basically you have 4.5 volts coming in from pin 3, lets say that due to the position of the swing arm 3 volts go back on pin 4, the remaining 1.5 volts goes back on pin 2.
Testing you can do is make sure there is 4.5V on pin 3 with the key on, I can not tell what voltage is sent down 1 & 6 for moving the motor, I assume its 4.5V since it comes from the HVAC but ford doesnt say and I dont know, its a motor so the voltage will simply reverse when moved the other way. You could unplug the HVAC and check the resistance of these wires to see if there is a open or is there is a short.
I have only seen one vehicle where the actuator was not the issue.
Ok here is the wiring diagram and the connector for the actuator, I highlighted the actuator connector number in both pictures.
Pins 1 & 6 are power to the motor to change position.
Pin 5 is not used.
Pins 2, 3, 4 are for the potentiometer to tell the HVAC what position the actuator is in.
Pin 3 should is VREF and should have 4.5V on it.
This is where it gets complicated to diag, pin 2 is a return wire and pin 4 is the signal wire.
As the motor moves the door it swings a bar across the internal potentiometer resister that connects to pin 4, depending on the location of this swing arm along this resister the voltage will being sent to the HVAC on that wire will change, the remaining voltage is sent back on pin 2 to the HVAC.
Basically you have 4.5 volts coming in from pin 3, lets say that due to the position of the swing arm 3 volts go back on pin 4, the remaining 1.5 volts goes back on pin 2.
Testing you can do is make sure there is 4.5V on pin 3 with the key on, I can not tell what voltage is sent down 1 & 6 for moving the motor, I assume its 4.5V since it comes from the HVAC but ford doesnt say and I dont know, its a motor so the voltage will simply reverse when moved the other way. You could unplug the HVAC and check the resistance of these wires to see if there is a open or is there is a short.
I have only seen one vehicle where the actuator was not the issue.
thx bud, when I tested 1&6 didn’t have no voltage.
Sorry I thought I included that you have to back probe for voltage at pins 1 & 6 with the actuator plugged in. My understanding is that the module doesnt move the motor if it cant tell what position the motor is in from the build in potentiometer.
And of course voltage would only be present when the module is trying to change the door position.
