Defrost doesn’t work
I did test the harness, getting 4.5 volts out of 2 wires, which I guess it’s power and communication to the climate control unit, there’s 3 more wires which I guess one is ground and the other 2 no clues what it is, but I get no reading from them. How do I test the actuator?
I know you have to remove the dash for the evap change out, but I thought you could change both blend doors and blower motor, where equipped, without removing dash. Did you reset the system after the install? Also read this page: https://did-it-myself.com/replacing-...door-actuator/
When the original actuator was installed did you hear any clicking when trying to change the air flow position?
Usually the internal actuator gears teeth get worn down and dont mesh together and they make a clicking noise when the worn down teeth skip.
To me it sounds like you installed the dorman actuator correctly, you could remove the actuator and carefully move the air flow position door through its full range by hand to make sure there is no binding of said door.
Usually the internal actuator gears teeth get worn down and dont mesh together and they make a clicking noise when the worn down teeth skip.
To me it sounds like you installed the dorman actuator correctly, you could remove the actuator and carefully move the air flow position door through its full range by hand to make sure there is no binding of said door.
my brother knows nothing of turning a wrench. He drove it for months with stuck. Chest floor and cool air.. no heat ever. He drove it to shop and shelled out $1000 and HE told me that it was blower and actuator. I never saw invoice. 2010 (xlt 4.6l 3v 6spd 4x4) is his truck. Boat load of rough miles.
i would try take the actuator out and adjust settings and make sure the actuator is indeed turning. Then take your old actuator apart and use the the piece that meshes inside and make sure the door actually turns easily by hand.
I have been told your not suppose to plug the actuators in and change settings unless they are installed, something about the actuator not having resistance so could go to far and brake itself.
You could do this with the old one at no risk if since you are already planning on replacing it.
You also should not try to turn the actuator shaft by hand, you will almost defiantly break it then.
You could do this with the old one at no risk if since you are already planning on replacing it.
You also should not try to turn the actuator shaft by hand, you will almost defiantly break it then.
When the original actuator was installed did you hear any clicking when trying to change the air flow position?
Usually the internal actuator gears teeth get worn down and dont mesh together and they make a clicking noise when the worn down teeth skip.
To me it sounds like you installed the dorman actuator correctly, you could remove the actuator and carefully move the air flow position door through its full range by hand to make sure there is no binding of said door.
Usually the internal actuator gears teeth get worn down and dont mesh together and they make a clicking noise when the worn down teeth skip.
To me it sounds like you installed the dorman actuator correctly, you could remove the actuator and carefully move the air flow position door through its full range by hand to make sure there is no binding of said door.
no there is no clicking, I took the old actuator apart to see if there’s something wrong, all the teeth on the gears look good. With the actuator out I can change the setting by hand, by pulling on the rod that goes to the door. It moves freely with no resistance.










