I've had this third-party PATS key now for almost two years, along with two OEM Ford keys and they've all operated with zero problems until a couple weeks ago the third-party PATS key started getting the message, "Could Not Program Integrated Key' whenever I insert and switch the ignition to on.

I've done nothing programmatically to the vehicle recently, there has been no resetting of anything that I'm aware of, nor was the battery ever disconnected.

What gives?

 

Is the third key a clone, or a real third key?

Either way, does it start the vehicle? The keys have a chip in them, and can fail just like any component.

I'd go ahead, while you still have 2 working factory keys, and but a couple more, have them cut, and program them yourself.

 

Not sure what the difference is between a "clone" and a "real" third key, but the problematic key still starts the truck, both remotely and directly. It is not an OEM Ford key but something I bought off eBay and had a key smith program my truck to accept and use it because I only was given one original Ford key when I bought the truck and could not perform this procedure myself without at least two programmed keys. I then bought an OEM Ford key and programmed the truck to accept and use that key.

So to summarize, one original Ford OEM key that came with truck, one aftermarket-manufactured key that I had professionally programmed (and the one that is causing the error on the display), and a second brand new Ford OEM key that I programmed myself.

To be honest, I haven't tried the Ford OEM keys yet as they they located somewhere else presently, but that's my next step.

 

Ok, doesn't sound like you have a clone, which simulates one of your other working keys.

A search on that message seems to be tied to a "fifth key", maybe someone else will chime in.

 

UPDATE:

I just tried the original key that came with the truck and there are no error messages when used; it works perfectly.

I may just bite the bullet and buy another OEM key and program it just in case; I will be avoiding aftermarket keys for this truck from now on...

 

Sorry to revive this, but it's happening to me. I am using a cheap key that has worked for a long time and now it's starting to give the message. Also the cluster lights come on and sometimes stay on overnight.

 

The lights points to a switch problem. Either ignition or shifter, usually.

 

Yes, I have replaced both. And I am replacing the shifter again for a second time in two years. The message doesn't actually seem to have anything to do with that. It appears that if the battery is replaced in the truck and the electronics die off from juice, the key that starts the truck next must be a ford key, not an aftermarket one. The aftermarket ones do fine, and have all functionality, but the truck needs to be started once with the keys it was born with. I dug out the master keys, (Which are in horrible shape and all taped and glued together and after I did that, the message went away for ALL keys.

Weird. I am considering removing the Transponder from the ford key and moving it to one of the aftermarket keys. It's the only part of the key that the truck cares about. (The electronic board in the Ford original key has been broken a long time) Anyone ever swap transponders?

 

Uh...Howdy! If anyone picks this up like I did two years from now or whenever, if they have the same problem here is what I did to get around the stupid "could not integrate with me cheapy key" error. I ran the codes cleared what codes there were in the BCM and PATS. The BCM cleared everything except a B1218:00:AA. The truck did the same thing and when I tried ti read the key it set a 57317 which would not clear. So I did the good ol pull the cables off and give it a few minutes and stuck them back on. This time I did not hit my lock unlock button. It started and no warning light. So, my truck has a keypad on the door and if you just use it to unlock and lock or use the door switch to lock when you get out it's no problem.

 

Well, since this thread was revived, I only experienced the error message but no persistent cluster light(s).

When the errors occurred and wouldn't go away, I switched to one of my OEM keys since then. Recently I tried the cheapy aftermarket again and it no longer generated an error. Regardless, one of its rubber buttons broke (just the rubber pad; not the electronics) so I still ended up not using it anymore. Just one more reason why my next replacement key will be a Ford original one as the cheap aftermarkets just aren't worth it to me.