jhanna

In my case the key and fob were programmed differently. The 2 new keys where programmed using pc app by a friend, since I only had 1 original key.

The fobs were done using this,

1.Close all doors, then open drivers door and press the Unlock button on driver’s door while it is open, insert key into ignition.

2.Turn ignition from OFF to RUN 8 times within 8 seconds, with the 8th time ending in RUN. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming mode. (if the door locks do not cycle, then it was done incorrectly. You must start over by removing key and beginning from step 1)

(Off is the position where you can remove your key, RUN is the position just shy of starting your car.)

3.Within 10 seconds press any button on the first keyless remote to be programmed. Door locks will cycle to confirm programming. If you only have one remote then skip to step 5.
4.Within 10 seconds, press any button on the second keyless remote. Door locks will cycle again to confirm programming. Repeat step 4. for all other remotes.
5.Turn ignition to OFF. Locks will again cycle to indicate end of programming mode.

Speez

10-4, and this was done with only one original key/fob to program a second fob for keyless? What year truck?

UPDATE:

Tried it 10-15 times with the open door, hit unlock, cycle key off-run 8 times. Never got the locks to cycle to indicate being in programming mode. This is on a 2015 XLT SCrew. No dice unfortunately.

Rydeyz

I too only had one original key. I tried the above method, but instead of a lock/unlock confirmation, my horn would honk once. It did not work for me. However, Using the PATS module initialization with FORScan allowed me to erase my stored keys and re-program my old key as well as the two keys that came with my 100 series RS system. I'm fully up and running now.

jhanna

The procedure referenced above is for the fob. There is two things to consider, the key itself ( better defined as the rfid chip inside) and the fob part with push buttons on it.

Rydeyz

You are correct in that there are two parts being addressed. All I'm saying is that the procedure would not work for me. It did not enable the fob (which as I understand is what it was intended for) nor the chip. I'm not trying to argue here, just to point out for other readers that if the method you posted didn't work for them, then here is what worked for me. It took me about a day of reading through multiple threads in multiple forums and trying the diff methods as I went along before I finally figured out the rather cryptic instructions for using FORScan to delete and re-program my PATS keys.


There are a few variations of the procedure you posted. It's odd to me that there are so many diff methods to add a key to your vehicle for the F150... For me to program my third key (once I had the two programmed using FORScan), I had to use the cycling method (driver door open>depress unlock button on door>insert master>cycle on/off 8x-door locks cycle->insert 2nd master>cycle on/off til door locks cycle>insert new key>cycle on/off til door locks cycle>remove key>test>smile). And that programmed both parts, fob and chip.

Speez

Rydeyz - so using the FORScan instructions you were able to enable the KEYS, the FOBs (clicker), or both?

I think the confusion stems from people using the term key and fob interchangeably. One is the metal stick, one is the clicker.

I personally have one original switchblade key-fob, which is tied to the truck. I have a brand new switchblade key-fob which I need (have the key cut for) and then program both the key itself and the fob/clicker. Were you able to accomplish both without a locksmith or the dealer, or just one or the other? Glad to hear you were able to get at least a piece of it to work.

Thanks,

jhanna

The key for my '12 is not a switchblade style, but a "cut on both edges" key with integrated push buttons on the black plastic head.

After trying Lowes, Home Depot, Ace Hardware, neither of which wanted to cut the key for "liability issues", a locksmith shop did cut the key for $4/each, as I had 2 blanks.

A Ford mechanic neighbor friend using a pc home he brought from work, Forscan ??, programed the truck the recognized the 2 newly cut keys. The push button fob portion of the keys I did myself using the procedure above.

Ive had Lowes cut rfid keys before for either free or for the cost of a key, buy one of theirs but cut mine, but they didn't want to do it this time.

jdunk54nl

Forscan enabled key and fob for me when I went through the procedure. I had a locksmith cut the key for $2. Bought the key from fairway ford on ebay. Spent about 10 minutes with forscan programming. Once done everything worked.

Speez

By procedure above, you mean cycling the ignition on/off to engage "learn" for the FOB? or the forscan method?

10-4, so the PATS/Forscan procedure described elsewhere on this site and others enabled both the key for physically turning in the ignition and starting the truck, as well as the FOB itself? Did you have to clear all keys in the system and start from scratch (I guess, did you only have one original or still have both original keys and fobs)?

I have no problem doing the forscan programming, I just don't want (as discussed in those threads) to delete the only original I have and then be stranded when I can't get it programmed again - that would suck.

jdunk54nl

I only had one original, deleted all keys, and then programmed my original key and the new purchased key. It was scary but everything went smoothly.

If you are scared, drive to the for dealership and do it in their parking lot