Best Halogen Bulb Available?
Member
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 82
Likes: 19
From: Cocoa, FL
Color Temp 101
apeman88 is correct.
I am a professional lighting designer, have been practicing for 23 years.....CCT or Correlated Color Temperature is expressed in degrees Kelvin or the "K". The scale goes from warm to cool, and is inverse of what you would typically think as a warmer source color is lower numerically and cooler is higher.
Neutral white is anywhere between 4000 and 4300 degrees Kelvin.....as you go below that or "warmer" in appearance, the hue becomes more yellowish in nature. Example is your typical house lamp 60W bulb, incandescent is usually around 2400 to 2700 degrees Kelvin. As you rise above neutral white, once into the 5000 to 6000 degree Kelvin range or "cool" colors, the hue becomes more and more bluish and as you get to the 7000 to 8000 degree Kelvin it will become almost purplish. Remember, as you get lower in the spectrum you are moving towards infrared and higher you are moving towards ultraviolet….that’s why those color temps appear the way they do.
Also correct is the statement that SilverStars and other higher output versions of the stock wattage lamp will fail sooner because of increased heat within the same designed glass envelop as the stock….this simply means the filament is going to erode quicker and therefore fail sooner….it is the price you pay for increased output in the same lamp type.
I can personally attest to SilverStar fog lamps failing sooner than even listed in my Mustang over the years, so I stopped using them and went to an LED source which has yet to fail.
It really comes down to personal taste….but just keep in mind if you go to a “supercharged” lamp that is listing higher than stock lumen output, it is not going to last as long….whether that is worth the sometimes double the cost over stock is up to you.
I am a professional lighting designer, have been practicing for 23 years.....CCT or Correlated Color Temperature is expressed in degrees Kelvin or the "K". The scale goes from warm to cool, and is inverse of what you would typically think as a warmer source color is lower numerically and cooler is higher.
Neutral white is anywhere between 4000 and 4300 degrees Kelvin.....as you go below that or "warmer" in appearance, the hue becomes more yellowish in nature. Example is your typical house lamp 60W bulb, incandescent is usually around 2400 to 2700 degrees Kelvin. As you rise above neutral white, once into the 5000 to 6000 degree Kelvin range or "cool" colors, the hue becomes more and more bluish and as you get to the 7000 to 8000 degree Kelvin it will become almost purplish. Remember, as you get lower in the spectrum you are moving towards infrared and higher you are moving towards ultraviolet….that’s why those color temps appear the way they do.
Also correct is the statement that SilverStars and other higher output versions of the stock wattage lamp will fail sooner because of increased heat within the same designed glass envelop as the stock….this simply means the filament is going to erode quicker and therefore fail sooner….it is the price you pay for increased output in the same lamp type.
I can personally attest to SilverStar fog lamps failing sooner than even listed in my Mustang over the years, so I stopped using them and went to an LED source which has yet to fail.
It really comes down to personal taste….but just keep in mind if you go to a “supercharged” lamp that is listing higher than stock lumen output, it is not going to last as long….whether that is worth the sometimes double the cost over stock is up to you.
Member
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 86
Likes: 6
apeman88 is correct.
I am a professional lighting designer, have been practicing for 23 years.....CCT or Correlated Color Temperature is expressed in degrees Kelvin or the "K". The scale goes from warm to cool, and is inverse of what you would typically think as a warmer source color is lower numerically and cooler is higher.
Neutral white is anywhere between 4000 and 4300 degrees Kelvin.....as you go below that or "warmer" in appearance, the hue becomes more yellowish in nature. Example is your typical house lamp 60W bulb, incandescent is usually around 2400 to 2700 degrees Kelvin. As you rise above neutral white, once into the 5000 to 6000 degree Kelvin range or "cool" colors, the hue becomes more and more bluish and as you get to the 7000 to 8000 degree Kelvin it will become almost purplish. Remember, as you get lower in the spectrum you are moving towards infrared and higher you are moving towards ultraviolet….that’s why those color temps appear the way they do.
Also correct is the statement that SilverStars and other higher output versions of the stock wattage lamp will fail sooner because of increased heat within the same designed glass envelop as the stock….this simply means the filament is going to erode quicker and therefore fail sooner….it is the price you pay for increased output in the same lamp type.
I can personally attest to SilverStar fog lamps failing sooner than even listed in my Mustang over the years, so I stopped using them and went to an LED source which has yet to fail.
It really comes down to personal taste….but just keep in mind if you go to a “supercharged” lamp that is listing higher than stock lumen output, it is not going to last as long….whether that is worth the sometimes double the cost over stock is up to you.
I am a professional lighting designer, have been practicing for 23 years.....CCT or Correlated Color Temperature is expressed in degrees Kelvin or the "K". The scale goes from warm to cool, and is inverse of what you would typically think as a warmer source color is lower numerically and cooler is higher.
Neutral white is anywhere between 4000 and 4300 degrees Kelvin.....as you go below that or "warmer" in appearance, the hue becomes more yellowish in nature. Example is your typical house lamp 60W bulb, incandescent is usually around 2400 to 2700 degrees Kelvin. As you rise above neutral white, once into the 5000 to 6000 degree Kelvin range or "cool" colors, the hue becomes more and more bluish and as you get to the 7000 to 8000 degree Kelvin it will become almost purplish. Remember, as you get lower in the spectrum you are moving towards infrared and higher you are moving towards ultraviolet….that’s why those color temps appear the way they do.
Also correct is the statement that SilverStars and other higher output versions of the stock wattage lamp will fail sooner because of increased heat within the same designed glass envelop as the stock….this simply means the filament is going to erode quicker and therefore fail sooner….it is the price you pay for increased output in the same lamp type.
I can personally attest to SilverStar fog lamps failing sooner than even listed in my Mustang over the years, so I stopped using them and went to an LED source which has yet to fail.
It really comes down to personal taste….but just keep in mind if you go to a “supercharged” lamp that is listing higher than stock lumen output, it is not going to last as long….whether that is worth the sometimes double the cost over stock is up to you.
Hi Speedtwin
Very Important I have a 2013 FX4 Screw Eco
I was at a Autozone today and there system doesn't have any info on the 2013 F150's
Not sure if they are the same as a 2012 truck so I would appreciate if anyone could let me know before I buy them.
I'm in the same boat as to decide which would be a better solution on the Silverstars.
It's either the Ultras or the zXe and I would like to buy for both headlights and fog lights.
I just need the most brightness and usable light compared to the ****ty and unusable OEM that I have on my 2013 FX4 Screw Eco right now.
I would love to know if there's an equivalent in LED for these halogens and if its a pain in the *** to change over to LED.
All in all, I would like to have as much brightness as possible with either one of these two Silverstar options
since I have a Autozone very close and for convenience sake I can have them on my truck tomorrow.
Unless you recommend something else?
thanks a lot for the fast reply
cheers,
Charles
Last edited by Mastersonics; Sep 3, 2013 at 08:13 PM.
