Automatic lock/unlock Opening Tailgate and LED Bed Lights
04-22-2014, 03:22 PM
#101
Thanks for the help saylor1322. Nothing like a crash course in automotive wiring to cause me a few headaches, I am just trying to confirm a few things, do you mind taking a look at this schematic I drew up and let me know if I have all the wires running correct? I am not sure off hand if the solenoid I order is self grounding so can I run 16g wire and tie it into the same 14g ground wire that I ran into the TR-7? What amp relay did you use, I've seen some using 30/40A and some using 15A? Hopefully this drawing will help others visualize what is going on with the wiring.
04-22-2014, 03:51 PM
#102
The following users liked this post:
albi1cnobi1 (04-24-2017)
04-22-2014, 09:21 PM
#103
Thanks for the help saylor1322. Nothing like a crash course in automotive wiring to cause me a few headaches, I am just trying to confirm a few things, do you mind taking a look at this schematic I drew up and let me know if I have all the wires running correct? I am not sure off hand if the solenoid I order is self grounding so can I run 16g wire and tie it into the same 14g ground wire that I ran into the TR-7? What amp relay did you use, I've seen some using 30/40A and some using 15A?
Hopefully this drawing will help others visualize what is going on with the wiring.
Hopefully this drawing will help others visualize what is going on with the wiring.
The following users liked this post:
thomas.p.abney (01-05-2017)
04-22-2014, 09:38 PM
#104
I also am planing on doing this mod.
04-22-2014, 10:37 PM
#105
05-31-2014, 04:43 PM
#109
Junior Member
I did this to my 2013 and I love it. Just my 2 cents worth,...
1)I grounded the actuator back to the frame with a 3' piece of 12ga. wire as the tailgate is isolated by the bushings in the hinges.
2) I also used the 60lbs. solenoid because after getting the bed sprayed it was more difficult to unlatch (manually) as the thickness of the lining put the latch in a bind.
3) The alignment of the solenoid to the latch had to be perfectly straight. Any torque on the plunger and it wouldn't pull in.
4) I have a cover and need to keep it clean and waxed / siliconed where it meets the gate or sometimes it will unlatch but not open due to friction.
5) If I park facing down hill, the gate will, again, unlatch but not fall open. I just live with this one,...Now I always park uphill,... vs downhill like I did back in the 70's when I couldn't afford an rebuilt starter for my 1972 F-250.
1)I grounded the actuator back to the frame with a 3' piece of 12ga. wire as the tailgate is isolated by the bushings in the hinges.
2) I also used the 60lbs. solenoid because after getting the bed sprayed it was more difficult to unlatch (manually) as the thickness of the lining put the latch in a bind.
3) The alignment of the solenoid to the latch had to be perfectly straight. Any torque on the plunger and it wouldn't pull in.
4) I have a cover and need to keep it clean and waxed / siliconed where it meets the gate or sometimes it will unlatch but not open due to friction.
5) If I park facing down hill, the gate will, again, unlatch but not fall open. I just live with this one,...Now I always park uphill,... vs downhill like I did back in the 70's when I couldn't afford an rebuilt starter for my 1972 F-250.
05-31-2014, 05:07 PM
#110
Senior Member
Another tip, when wiring make sure you install a connect to the wire once it's out the tailgate. You do this so if you ever need to remove the tailgate you can disconnect it.
Wayne
Wayne