I didn't want to hijack another thread with a slightly off topic question, so figured I'd start a new one.

I have seen some get by with running 35's with a 2" level kit, some with the 4" Rancho, and many with a 6" kit of some sort. With these three choices for running 35s, is the decision purely around aesthetics, or is there a functional consideration as well?

Also curious what relationship the wheel offset has to the lift size (if any). If someone is going for an aftermarket wheel, is not going to put any sort of fender flare on, and only wants maybe an inch or two of tire sticking out (not a wide tire stance look), does this set up work with any of the lift sizes, or is clearance more of a consideration? BTW, this would be on a 2011 4x4 SCREW, likely 35x12.5x20s.

Finally, this seems like an obvious question, but is the wheel offset the piece that determines how much rubbing those tires will do on tight turns? I'm coming from an Excursion where I had front leaf springs, and I did get some rubbing on tight turns with 35s. The suspension of the F150 is obviously different, and there aren't leaf springs to rub on. If there is the potential for some rubbing on the F-150, where does it happen, and is it best avoided via the right size lift, the right offset, or both?

Thank you

 

with a 2" level and 35's you may encounter some rubbing. the rancho kit and other 6" kits are full blown lift kits, where you get new sub-frame and new steering knuckles etc.

Also with the rancho and 6" if running a correctly backspaced wheel for the kit will limit wheel rubbing. The reason for the backspacing requirements on the lift kits is because the new steering knuckle needs more clearance, because they are taller.

You might be able to get away with OEM 20" wheels, if you dont want your tires to stick out, you would have to check with rancho. usually when you put wheels on with more backspace (making them stick out further) the more rubbing you will have.

offset and backspacing go hand in hand. 4.5" backspacing is -12mm offset. I cant remember exactly how it works, but its where the center line of the rim is compared to the mounting surface for the lugs.

Good luck, post pics!

 

Well, the leveling kit is basically s spacer for your front strut, but creates some not-so-desirable angles in your control arms and such. A 4" and a 6" lift are essentially the same, other than ground clearance. when it comes to functionality with tires, and wheels and such, they are also the same. 4" lift you may be able to fit in some parking garages, but most 6" lifts won't. Offset of a wheel is just another way of measuring backspacing of the wheel (how far it sticks out) example: 4.5" of backspacing is equal to -12mm offset. 5" of backspacing is equal to 0mm offset etc etc.

 

Thank you both for the education. Just trying to figure out the best overall long term set up. I will certainly post pics when the project is complete.

 

backspacing and offset are directly related. Both are good numbers to know (either can be calculated from another) but the rim width also has to be known or they mean nothing and proper fitment cannot me measured. Both are determined from the center of the wheel, just depends where you are measuring from.

Here is a clip of an explanation from tire rack:

"The offset of a wheel is the distance from its hub mounting surface to the centerline of the wheel. The offset can be one of three types (measured in millimeters).*

Zero Offset

The hub mounting surface is even with the centerline of the wheel.

Positive

The hub mounting surface is toward the front or wheel side of the wheel. Positive offset wheels are generally found on front wheel drive cars and newer rear drive cars.

Negative

The hub mounting surface is toward the back or brake side of the wheels centerline. "Deep dish" wheels are typically a negative offset.

If the offset of the wheel is not correct for the car, the handling can be adversely affected. When the width of the wheel changes, the offset also changes numerically. If the offset were to stay the same while you added width, the additional width would be split evenly between the inside and outside. For most cars, this won't work correctly. We have test fitted thousands of different vehicles for proper fitment. Our extensive database allows our sales staff to offer you the perfect fit for your vehicle.

*Backspacing, similar to offset, is the distance from the hub mounting surface to the inside lip of the wheel (measured in inches)."

Note that back spacing is to the inside lip of a wheel. That is assumed to 0.5". That is how you can have a 6" rim, with 3.5" of backspacing and 0mm offset.....4" of backspacing would give you 12mm offset.

 

A good link for backspace and offset: https://www.rsracing.com/tech-wheel.html

 

Your on the right track. For each lift you are considering you should review the recommended ranges for wheel size, tire size, and backspacing. You can call the manufacturer if you can't find the info. online. If your running stock wheels you can only go so big (in tire) before they rub against the upper control arm (due to more backspacing on a stock wheel compared to aftermarket). If your running aftermarket wheels you can only go so big (in tire) before rubbing near the edge of the fenders when turning (due to less backspacing on an aftermarket wheel compared to stock). This is why the lift should probably come first and everything else after. Good luck and keep researching before deciding.

 

If you 4x4 I would not recommend going more than 33.5" with a 2-2.5" leveling kit. Remember articulation will get you if you do not leave enough space open. And again back spacing is a factor too, just look at the sticky on this section for wheel fitment.

 

OK So I just went with a 6" Procomp Stage 2 on my 2010 FX4, Im also running the 35" tires. The wheels I got are 20"x10" with a -12mm offset. The tires are 12.5" wide and do not rub at all during tight turns UNLESS one of the front shocks is compressed by going over a bump or something then they will rub barely at the rear of the wheel well, right where the stock fender flares are. I've heard the 4" Rancho is really close to actually being a 6" lift so you should be good there as well. If you went with just a leveling kit I think you would need to do some cutting in the front and rear at the lower part of the wheel well if you wanted to use 35" most people with the leveling kit are going with 33" tires. hope this helps. If you have any more questions let me know...

 

A 10" wheel with -12 offset will stick out a lot and also be more likely to rub at the rear fender well. @Gino, I'm guessing you have aftermarket flares or the tires stick out a ways. I ran that on my 2005 and it was pretty good with flares but looked rediculous how far they stuck out before the flares which I didn't want to add but was basically forced to with that wheel spec.