2012 fx2 w/ luxury package so it was has the electronic dual zone climate control.

AC lately just doesnt seem as cold as it used to be, granted I never actually checked vent temps previously to compare against so maybe im imagining it.

Using my harbor freight IR gun with AC on Max setting Im getting low 50s out of the vents whether its 80 or 60 out

Blend Doors:

I've been hearing at least one blend door clicking in the dash, to me it kind of sounds like 2 but don't know for sure, usually hear them with the truck on and AC running when I do hear them. Today I did cycle through defrost, center vents and floor and that all seems fine. I can change the main temp **** and both sides get hotter and cooler, if I hit the pass side temp button and adjust both temp ***** both sides change hot and cold independently. I did notice in Forscan when I had both sides set to 90 degrees it showed the driver side **** reading 98%, wouldnt got to 100 like the pass side. Both do go to 0 when set to 60.

In forscan I had an error B11E5 - Left HVAC Damper Position Sensor - additional fault Symptom (:15): circuit short to battery or open.
Which one is the left one - the one behind the radio or the one by the gas pedal? Is that blend door just for hot/cold on the driver side?

I dont have a fault code but when logging the Hvac module for "Recirc_Pos" if it's turned off I get "Fresh Air" if turned to recirculate I get "error". Is this the one down by the blower motor in the passenger footwell? When swtiching between modes recirculate turned on does result in lower vent temps by around 8 degrees and the outside odors of traffic and such go away so it's at least partially working.

I did perform an hvac reset with forscan, cleared the hvac error code and didnt notice the ticking noises but then again it doesnt always happen (or im just used to it). The error code for the left hvac damper position has not returned since clearing it but it's literally only been one day. I did not notice a change either way in vent temps after this.

Other info:

compressor appears to cycle ok and follows commands when logging the pcm through forscan. I will check the evap temp another time when the truck hasnt been running for a while, it was sitting around 37 degrees with it running and ac on for a bit (external temp around 70 and the pid read that as well).

the acp_press, psi pid reads around 105 with compressor off and goes up to around 140 with compressor on. Im not sure what drives this but it seems to cycle the compressor off around this pressure and back on around the 105 or so (max ac setting). I'll borrow some gauges tomorrow and see what the actual pressures are.

 

ac continued to get worse so looked further into it this weekend - high side valve core is bad. Didnt notice/think anything of it that the high side line near the fill port was dirty. I took the cap off and there was a very audible hiss of pressure being released and could see the compressor oil. After using gauges to add some freon back until I get the valve replaced when I took the high side off if kept leaking, had to wiggle the stem around with some pliers to get it to stop. I guess if it was gonna have a leak thats the best I could ask for.

 

expansion valve was on the way out too.

Didnt realize these trucks dont have the typical dryer canister - its basically the filter/orifice tube and a desiccant inside a tube in the condenser. the assembly is several inches long and the condenser is about 2" above the frame rail so have fun with that.

edit: evap core temp is now at 37 degrees as it should be. I'm going to replace the recirculating blend motor, inspect that the door is working properly and inspect the evap core to see if its plugged up (air flow, not refrigerant). I have an inspection camera I hope to run up from the fan motor but I've also got no issues with drilling a hole or making an access panel in the evap case if needed.

lastly the blend door stuff was driving me nuts. A digital dual zone truck has 4

YH1933 (x2) - on behind the radio (easy) and the one under the dash/center console (pita but there are shortcut method videos)
yh1770 - recirculation motor on the pass side
yh1881 - defrost etc down by the gas pedal

 

I guess this is just my running log now.

Replaced the recirculating door motor, dropped the fan and sent in the camera - thanks to ford bean counters leaving out a cabin air filter the evap core is CAKED in dog hair.

I will be cutting an access panel and using my shop vac with the Milwaukee air tip kit and try to vacuum the stuff out of there. Then out the panel back with duct work sealant of flex seal tape

 

Wow 37 degrees thats fantastic, wish my 13 would do that! Glad to see you are getting it all sorted.

 

remember thats the temp in the middle of the evap core (which can be seen in forscan) it is NOT vent temps.

Update:

The front of the evap core is accessible both from the fan ducting if you remove it or from the blower motor resistor. A carpet of dog hair that has been repeatedly soaked with condensation is NOT coming out with a tooth brush or shop vac. Im not convinced that this foaming coil cleaner will dissolve it either but I will further research. At this point it seems it will have to be flushed from the back side which means cutting an access panel. I'll probably try first with some compressed air, really trying to avoid water.

 

[QUOTE=dsg2003mach1;7599409]remember thats the temp in the middle of the evap core (which can be seen in forscan) it is NOT vent temps.

Yes, looking at it via Forscan thanks!

 

Nothing has made a bit of difference

i doubt foaming evap cleaner will help either but again, can’t really make it any worse at this point so trying that. Might do a second can from behind the evap unit because why not

edit: replacing the recirculation/fresh air motor made no difference. It still seems to move exactly the same as before and Forscan still reports "error" when put on the recirculate mode, wonder if it's a forscan issue

I guess I'll watch some videos this weekend on pulling the dash, already left messages at two shops for quotes on the evap, heater core and other blend doors while it's out in the open. I don't really have 2 days to do this (giving myself a cushion) and if a shop does it and something isn't right it's their problem instead of mine.

 

I'll post up some pictures tonight when Im done but back flushing it with a hose appears to have helped tremendously

I unhooked the battery, removed the fan - stuffed some towels in there. Removed the blower motor resistor and parked my borescope in there to watch the core

I took my dremel with a cutoff wheel and the flex head extension and cut a big panel out of the evap core housing.

towels in the floor board, over the side of the console and around the opening I made in the evap housing. I used a garden hose with the sprayer on a wide setting, drape a microfiber over my hand to catch back splash and went to work. You can spray for a couple of seconds, let it drain and repeat the process over and over. I Feel like I got about 80% of the core clean last night. I will hit it with another round of foaming core cleaner and go back to rinsing it tonight. Once you get a puddle on the ground you can hear the water dripping so you'll know if the drain clogs but back flushing it this way all the crap ends up on the front side of the core. I used a toothbrush through the resistor opening to drag it out where I could reach it with my fingers.

Every now and then check your towel in the fan duct and wring it out/replace as necessary.

I'll put the panel back with duct tape for now and see how it goes. If I'm happy with it I'll either get some plastic weld type stuff or try the flex seal tape along that seam.

Definitely worth a try vs spending all day/weekend to R&R the dash or paying a shop 2 grand.

 

I feel like the core might still be 20% or so blocked and can’t seem to get it any cleaner but I’ve got 43 degree vent temps with 81 ambient temps so I’ll call it a success