5.0 coyote 5w-30 vs 5w-20
haven't heard of the check valve in the ford filter, but i'll have to check this out. i have a wix filter and haven't heard any noises or had any issues.
It's oil people... it's a lubricant and a coolant... You could run 15w50 provided it wasn't cold out and have zero issues too. 5w20 offers adequate protection while supposedly increasing fuel economy. ... that's it. Pretty well all manufacturers switched for this very reason. Any good oil filter should have an anti drain back valve. I noticed startup clatter when I tried an amsoil filter... swapped in a Motorcraft and it's significantly improved. Motorcraft it is.
Modern engines have tighter tolerances and clearances. A thinner oil is needed to properly lubricate into these tight tolerances.
Too thick of an oil and you can oil starve a modern engine.
Too thick of an oil and you can oil starve a modern engine.
Anyone else using 30 weight oil instead of the water thin 20? I use mobil 1 5w-30 in my coyote because I'm an experienced mechanic and can't see 20 weight possibly offering the protection of 30. It's been said the only reason manufacturers are recommending 5w-20 and 0w-20 is simply to improve corporate average fuel economy In order to meet government standards. I would say this is true. What's Also intresting is ford recommends 5w-50 in the track pack mustang which has the exact same engine as the GT which calls for 20 weight. I'm just curious what your all thoughts on this are??
Last edited by richardscalp; Jan 5, 2015 at 12:27 PM.
This is such bullsh!t... stop it. Do you even know what "tight tolerances" they mean... no you don't... It's not that the rod bearings, mains and piston to wall are that much tighter. ... they aren't. What it means is manufacturing wise they are supposed to be more uniformly built from better equipment with more repeatability. Because of those supposed requirements you can run water consistency oil and still be blessed to build oil pressure. They tightened up their tolerance to error... You need clearance regardless to deal with with thermal expansion... that hasn't made engines suddenly need zero clearance between a bearing and a journal. Engines built 35 years ago can easily be machined with the same physical tolerances but magically they are okay to run with higher viscosity oils.... nope! The only argument I have ever seen that may present some validity is the cam phasers because depending on design oil pressure advances and retards the cam or cams. If it changes ant amount it throws the process out..... but that's it. Enough with this tight tolerance rubbish already!
Last edited by 1994Vmax; Jan 5, 2015 at 11:43 AM.
This is such bullsh!t... stop it. Do you even know what "tight tolerances" they mean... no you don't... It's not that the rod bearings, mains and piston to wall are that much tighter. ... they aren't. What it means is manufacturing wise they are supposed to be more uniformly built from better equipment with more repeatability. You need clearance regardless to deal with with thermal expansion... that hasn't made engines suddenly need zero clearance between a bearing and a journal. Engines built 35 years ago can easily be machined with the same physical tolerances but magically they are okay to run with higher viscosity oils.... nope! The only argument I have ever seen that may present some validity is the cam phasers because depending on design oil pressure advances and retards the cam or cams. If it changes ant amount it throws the process out..... but that's it. Enough with this tight tolerance rubbish already!
Tell me how you really feel.
I also am constantly amazed at the claims about how "perfect" (fill in the brand name oil here) works based only on how many miles you've used it. I have never heard of an oil related engine FAILURE.....ever. You could probably run the cheapest recycled oil sold out of the back door of a wrecking yard, and your engine would not "fail" because of the oil.
Now if you want to talk about your engine seeming to start and run more quietly, or get better mpg, or as mentioned -- tearing it down and have it look new inside.....then I am all ears.
sterlingone, thanks for the info. the dealer might be pushing the brand or it could be totally different. the next oil change i'll change back and see if i notice a difference.
I had one of my local Ford dealers refuse to install a WIX Gold filter that I'd brought in with me because it wasn't OEM. They said it did not have the right check valve......you could see the check valve if you looked inside, but that did not matter to them.
I also am constantly amazed at the claims about how "perfect" (fill in the brand name oil here) works based only on how many miles you've used it. I have never heard of an oil related engine FAILURE.....ever. You could probably run the cheapest recycled oil sold out of the back door of a wrecking yard, and your engine would not "fail" because of the oil.
Now if you want to talk about your engine seeming to start and run more quietly, or get better mpg, or as mentioned -- tearing it down and have it look new inside.....then I am all ears.
I also am constantly amazed at the claims about how "perfect" (fill in the brand name oil here) works based only on how many miles you've used it. I have never heard of an oil related engine FAILURE.....ever. You could probably run the cheapest recycled oil sold out of the back door of a wrecking yard, and your engine would not "fail" because of the oil.
Now if you want to talk about your engine seeming to start and run more quietly, or get better mpg, or as mentioned -- tearing it down and have it look new inside.....then I am all ears.




