2013 Ecoboost overheating concerns
Buffblazer - is it mounted in the same location?
Larger size would restrict a little more air, but dissipating the heat faster with a larger cooler may allow for the air passing through to be cooler. Is that what you’re thinking?
But hey... Got no personal experience nor factual data to back that up - purely SWAG (Scientific Wild *** Guess).
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Changing the thermo is probably my first step when I get a week off over Christmas. Looked into the threads y’all were mentioning and I will go back to a motorcraft.
narrowing down my timeline is a little more difficult. I usually pull my heaviest loads over the mountains when I go hunting and that is when it is cold. I could pull a 9,000 5th wheel up over Eisenhower at 65mph and wouldn’t have any cooling issues.
then I put the winch/bumper and then the tires on and the radiator was replaced all within a couple months of each other without any towing.
that summer I used a 19 foot by 7 foot wide 4500 camper and didn’t notice any issues. Then I didn’t really tow much and then this last summer I took that camper over the mountain and just barely got it hot near the top.
then upgraded to a 8ft wide 11 foot tall 23 foot camper weighing 5000 and towed it from Idaho back to Colorado. Couldn’t keep the truck over 55 without getting it red hot (ambient air temp was 100) wasn’t able to to really get up to speed until it was 65 out at like 10:00pm going through Wyoming.
so I figured the winch grill guard was my issue and the ambient heat pulling the rolling hills. But then about a month later I went and picked up the same identical camper in Nebraska with ambient temp of 85 and couldn’t go over 55 without overheating. Lot smaller hills and cooler temps
got a few short tows in to my camping area this fall that have some long but not steep climbs and never could get the temp under 230 if over 50mph and had to pull over a few times to let it cool.
did the thermostat swap between two different trips and it didn’t make a difference.
so was struggling to figure out if it was the winch restricting flow, or if they put the wrong radiator in. Then with the temp being almost 220 the other day and it being so cold out……. I figured that eliminated my winch being the problem due to enough cold air should have easily been keeping it cool.
hell maybe the thermo is stuck shut.
narrowing down my timeline is a little more difficult. I usually pull my heaviest loads over the mountains when I go hunting and that is when it is cold. I could pull a 9,000 5th wheel up over Eisenhower at 65mph and wouldn’t have any cooling issues.
then I put the winch/bumper and then the tires on and the radiator was replaced all within a couple months of each other without any towing.
that summer I used a 19 foot by 7 foot wide 4500 camper and didn’t notice any issues. Then I didn’t really tow much and then this last summer I took that camper over the mountain and just barely got it hot near the top.
then upgraded to a 8ft wide 11 foot tall 23 foot camper weighing 5000 and towed it from Idaho back to Colorado. Couldn’t keep the truck over 55 without getting it red hot (ambient air temp was 100) wasn’t able to to really get up to speed until it was 65 out at like 10:00pm going through Wyoming.
so I figured the winch grill guard was my issue and the ambient heat pulling the rolling hills. But then about a month later I went and picked up the same identical camper in Nebraska with ambient temp of 85 and couldn’t go over 55 without overheating. Lot smaller hills and cooler temps
got a few short tows in to my camping area this fall that have some long but not steep climbs and never could get the temp under 230 if over 50mph and had to pull over a few times to let it cool.
did the thermostat swap between two different trips and it didn’t make a difference.
so was struggling to figure out if it was the winch restricting flow, or if they put the wrong radiator in. Then with the temp being almost 220 the other day and it being so cold out……. I figured that eliminated my winch being the problem due to enough cold air should have easily been keeping it cool.
hell maybe the thermo is stuck shut.
Was the radiator a new unit, or something repaired/refurbed?
I will say I have a ranch hand full replacement bumper on my 14 5.0, with 35" tires, and I'm routinely driving across rural Texas in summer time (100+ temps) at sustained 80-90mph. I've never seen the truck show an increase in engine temps. Trans temps seem to never get above ~206. Same goes for when I'm towing, but obviously the speeds are reduced to safe levels.
Moreover I would say that a lifted/big tired ecoboost towing isn't an uncommon use case either. I see ecoboost guys with lifts/levels/tires towing all the time down here; if our stock cooling systems were even remotely approaching "undersized" it would be commonly discussed here.
If you're towing in a weight legal configuration on flat ground at 55mph @ 80 deg, I don't care what your tire size is, or if you've got a winch upfront, it shouldn't be overheating.
I think replacing the thermostat is smart. It doesn't seem to align with your timeline of events, but I suppose it's possible the original failed at some point after your radiator replacement, and the aftermarket one never worked correctly.
Was the radiator a new unit, or something repaired/refurbed?
I will say I have a ranch hand full replacement bumper on my 14 5.0, with 35" tires, and I'm routinely driving across rural Texas in summer time (100+ temps) at sustained 80-90mph. I've never seen the truck show an increase in engine temps. Trans temps seem to never get above ~206. Same goes for when I'm towing, but obviously the speeds are reduced to safe levels.
Moreover I would say that a lifted/big tired ecoboost towing isn't an uncommon use case either. I see ecoboost guys with lifts/levels/tires towing all the time down here; if our stock cooling systems were even remotely approaching "undersized" it would be commonly discussed here.
If you're towing in a weight legal configuration on flat ground at 55mph @ 80 deg, I don't care what your tire size is, or if you've got a winch upfront, it shouldn't be overheating.
Was the radiator a new unit, or something repaired/refurbed?
I will say I have a ranch hand full replacement bumper on my 14 5.0, with 35" tires, and I'm routinely driving across rural Texas in summer time (100+ temps) at sustained 80-90mph. I've never seen the truck show an increase in engine temps. Trans temps seem to never get above ~206. Same goes for when I'm towing, but obviously the speeds are reduced to safe levels.
Moreover I would say that a lifted/big tired ecoboost towing isn't an uncommon use case either. I see ecoboost guys with lifts/levels/tires towing all the time down here; if our stock cooling systems were even remotely approaching "undersized" it would be commonly discussed here.
If you're towing in a weight legal configuration on flat ground at 55mph @ 80 deg, I don't care what your tire size is, or if you've got a winch upfront, it shouldn't be overheating.
interesting bit of new info, so it gets driven 2 times a week for a total of 130 miles. Basically down to work, sits for a week then drive back home.
when I left Sunday night, it was 50 degrees out. I watched my temp the entire drive and noticed the truck stayed about 10 degrees cooler for the entire trip up to the last 5 miles then it was sitting closer to the 219-221.
I also noticed that when I cut throttle on the downgrades it would drop down into the 190’s and even high 180’s if coasting long enough. Last week in the 24 degree temp it never got under 210 I believe.
i also notice that at 201 degrees my fans were running. And when I shut the truck off and turned it back on about 5 mins later, the temp was about 200 and the fans ran for about 20 secs and shut off.
Maybe possible my temp sensor is bad? My new temp gun will be here this week so will be able to start seeing if what the gauge says actually matches what I’m reading with the tool.
So yes, lots of problems on the forums with aftermarket stats, nearly everyone who replaces their stat on a preventative basis, has an overheating issue, though i notice it tends to be 5.0 owners who do this work, i don't see 3.5 owners doing it. I'm at least glad to see you understand what a 170deg stat will do rather than what many others think 
What you're describing absolutely does sound like a stat issue, despite what happened and what you've done. Remember the 5.0 and 3.5 engines are cold side stats, so when it starts to open, it lets straight-up cold water from the rad into the loop, quickly cooling the sensor and shutting the stat down again. Per Ford's info, it takes several cycles to fully open the stat and up to 30 minutes idling to get up to temp - this is in change to the 6.2 for example where it's about 10 minutes and IIRC, runs a hot side stat.
Anyway, i have also seen plenty of people over the past couple of years with 3.5 over heating issues, but i think a video i just watched (unrelated subject title) covers what you're seeing - TLDR, Ford released a revised stat part number.

What you're describing absolutely does sound like a stat issue, despite what happened and what you've done. Remember the 5.0 and 3.5 engines are cold side stats, so when it starts to open, it lets straight-up cold water from the rad into the loop, quickly cooling the sensor and shutting the stat down again. Per Ford's info, it takes several cycles to fully open the stat and up to 30 minutes idling to get up to temp - this is in change to the 6.2 for example where it's about 10 minutes and IIRC, runs a hot side stat.
Anyway, i have also seen plenty of people over the past couple of years with 3.5 over heating issues, but i think a video i just watched (unrelated subject title) covers what you're seeing - TLDR, Ford released a revised stat part number.
So yes, lots of problems on the forums with aftermarket stats, nearly everyone who replaces their stat on a preventative basis, has an overheating issue, though i notice it tends to be 5.0 owners who do this work, i don't see 3.5 owners doing it. I'm at least glad to see you understand what a 170deg stat will do rather than what many others think 
What you're describing absolutely does sound like a stat issue, despite what happened and what you've done. Remember the 5.0 and 3.5 engines are cold side stats, so when it starts to open, it lets straight-up cold water from the rad into the loop, quickly cooling the sensor and shutting the stat down again. Per Ford's info, it takes several cycles to fully open the stat and up to 30 minutes idling to get up to temp - this is in change to the 6.2 for example where it's about 10 minutes and IIRC, runs a hot side stat.
Anyway, i have also seen plenty of people over the past couple of years with 3.5 over heating issues, but i think a video i just watched (unrelated subject title) covers what you're seeing - TLDR, Ford released a revised stat part number.
https://youtu.be/Fz2ZduzMnXg

What you're describing absolutely does sound like a stat issue, despite what happened and what you've done. Remember the 5.0 and 3.5 engines are cold side stats, so when it starts to open, it lets straight-up cold water from the rad into the loop, quickly cooling the sensor and shutting the stat down again. Per Ford's info, it takes several cycles to fully open the stat and up to 30 minutes idling to get up to temp - this is in change to the 6.2 for example where it's about 10 minutes and IIRC, runs a hot side stat.
Anyway, i have also seen plenty of people over the past couple of years with 3.5 over heating issues, but i think a video i just watched (unrelated subject title) covers what you're seeing - TLDR, Ford released a revised stat part number.
https://youtu.be/Fz2ZduzMnXg
Is the housing the same on the 2017 as the 2013’s and the updated part number also would fit?
I can't say if it changed or not, it doesn't seem worth changing it for engine iterations, you should be able to check on rockauto for the fitting - in fact i remember him mentioning in the video that it was hard to get the Ford part, this is the supply chain issue, lots of people struggling for Motorcraft stats it seems.
BL3Z8575A is for your 2013, but it has been superseded by BL3Z8575B - which says it doesn't fit the 2013.
The number in the video is HL3Z8575B - which is really close to the new number, but says it's 2016 onward.
I have used several OE sites for checking, and even though the number listed for your 2013 (BL3Z8575A) shows up, they all say it's been replaced with the BL3Z8575B - which says it doesn't fit the 2013 - HOWEVER - if you manually search those sites for the thermostat on a 2013 ecoboost, *that* is the part number that shows up for it, so i'd look for and give BL3Z8575B a try.
BL3Z8575A is for your 2013, but it has been superseded by BL3Z8575B - which says it doesn't fit the 2013.
The number in the video is HL3Z8575B - which is really close to the new number, but says it's 2016 onward.
I have used several OE sites for checking, and even though the number listed for your 2013 (BL3Z8575A) shows up, they all say it's been replaced with the BL3Z8575B - which says it doesn't fit the 2013 - HOWEVER - if you manually search those sites for the thermostat on a 2013 ecoboost, *that* is the part number that shows up for it, so i'd look for and give BL3Z8575B a try.
Well got some updates.
was having a hard time finding the actual motor craft thermostat that was for the 13. Everything kept popping up for newer years and kept directing me to non Motorcraft thermostats.
so I took the gamble and bought another 170 thermostat from 5 star tuning. Figured if I was gonna have the go aftermarket anyway I didn’t want to just put a factory temp back in. And I had them write me my fan tunes to go with my programmer.
did my install, drove my normal Sunday drive 64 miles. Temp outside was 24 and the truck ran between 185-190 the entire way.
That’s about a 30 degree change from the previous drive with around the same air temps.
For my towing overheating, I’m hoping that the previous two thermostats were possibly being in a stuck closed situation. Or at least partially. Would explain why it couldn’t cool itself fast enough when regardless of the thermostat, it would be fully open at those higher temps.
wont know until this summer, but starting off my hill climbs 30 degrees less than what I’m use to can’t hurt.
Thank you for all the help. I appreciate it.
was having a hard time finding the actual motor craft thermostat that was for the 13. Everything kept popping up for newer years and kept directing me to non Motorcraft thermostats.
so I took the gamble and bought another 170 thermostat from 5 star tuning. Figured if I was gonna have the go aftermarket anyway I didn’t want to just put a factory temp back in. And I had them write me my fan tunes to go with my programmer.
did my install, drove my normal Sunday drive 64 miles. Temp outside was 24 and the truck ran between 185-190 the entire way.
That’s about a 30 degree change from the previous drive with around the same air temps.
For my towing overheating, I’m hoping that the previous two thermostats were possibly being in a stuck closed situation. Or at least partially. Would explain why it couldn’t cool itself fast enough when regardless of the thermostat, it would be fully open at those higher temps.
wont know until this summer, but starting off my hill climbs 30 degrees less than what I’m use to can’t hurt.
Thank you for all the help. I appreciate it.
Thanks for the update on thermostat inventory and on what you did with your truck so far. Many times we never hear from the OP as to what worked and what didn't work. Keep us posted this summer.
The ecoboosts are pretty common to overheat while towing up a grade. I threw everything at mine (max tow radiator, thermostat, water pump, full race intercooler), nothing made a change. I was having problems on a 6% grade that is about 10 miles long and a 65mph speed limit so that is taxing on a vehicle not towing. I found by locking it down to 3rd gear only pushing it to 55mph so you are using more engine rpm and less boost I had no problems. It is the turbos that cause the heat soak issues when pulling grades and intercoolers, cold air intakes or bigger radiators seem to make no difference. Having the select shift in the 2011+ really helps out towing.
The ecoboosts are pretty common to overheat while towing up a grade. I threw everything at mine (max tow radiator, thermostat, water pump, full race intercooler), nothing made a change. I was having problems on a 6% grade that is about 10 miles long and a 65mph speed limit so that is taxing on a vehicle not towing. I found by locking it down to 3rd gear only pushing it to 55mph so you are using more engine rpm and less boost I had no problems. It is the turbos that cause the heat soak issues when pulling grades and intercoolers, cold air intakes or bigger radiators seem to make no difference. Having the select shift in the 2011+ really helps out towing.
I was even having problems on 2% grades out in Nebraska. Would be running 65-70 with it locked down into 5th and would have to drop speed down to 55 to keep it from overheating and even then it was running close.
im hoping it was just the thermostat stuck closed or partially closed. With the immediate change in temp from the old one to this one, I can’t wait to give it a try when it gets warm again.







