Rfortner

As quickly as i can i'll explain "what had happened"

2012 F150 5.0 flex fuel 149.XXX miles.

Wife was driving the truck to work yesterday morning and right as she was about to pull into the parking lot at work she got a battery light pop up on the instrument cluster. She sent me a picture of it and said "this just happened".

My thinking is that the alternator is going bad. I gather some tools and head down to the truck to take a look at it. I get there and the truck will not start, it turns over, but wont crank. I try jumping the truck off. 2 different vehicles, 2 different sets of jumper cables, nothing. I had replaced the battery about 3 months ago so i pop that out and take it to the auto parts store and have them test it. The battery says 790 cold crank amps, it tested at 805. went back to the truck, checked all fuses and everything looked fine.

I had some starting fluid in my other car that i was driving. I exposed the throttle body and put 1 quick squirt in there and she fired right up. The truck ran for about an hour and a half. I drove it to a buddies house to further diagnose the issue. Got to their house, turned the truck off and immediately tried to turn it back on, nothing. It was back to just turning over with no crank.

took off the fuel pump control module, cleaned off the plug and reconnected, truck started. I recall hearing the fuel pump "hum" prior to starting the truck (it was in a garage). let it run for a second, turned it off, tried again, turns over, no start..

Went to ford got a new pump control module. Still wont start. Can't hear the fuel pump engaging either. - took off the fuel line that connects to the fuel rails. let what fuel was in the line leak out, attempted to start the truck, no fuel is coming out of the line.

After my novel of a problem, i'm assuming that its the fuel pump? I've bought one, but haven't put it in yet. I'm just so stuck on the fact that the battery light had come on that morning and now it's not starting. Someone mentioned to me that it could be anything from the fuel pump, the module, all the way to the anti theft system.

its 7pm where i am now, i'm at work and plan on working on this thing when i get off at 6am. Any thoughts? what would you do?

ji603

Have you looked at fuse 27, in the engine fuse box? Is it burnt?

Rfortner

I have, i pulled out the owners manual and looked at any fuse that had anything to do with fuel,ignition,start,run - fuse #27 was one of the ones that i checked. if i remember right, it was a 5a fuse and it was fine

ji603

Hmmm

Only other guess would be the evap purge valve under hood

SickStroke6.0

Look at fuse 27 (under the hood) again. I can almost guarantee that the edges of the fuse will look burnt. It won't be blown, though. Ford makes a fuse relocation kit for it. I dealt with this exact problem a few months ago.

It's a $20 part, and it's a known issue. Replace that first.

jono38

just had the exact same issue but my truck read low oil pressure and just stopped middle of an intersection. I googled it up after my truck diagnostic said fuel pump and super happy all it was is a a dollar fuse. thanks boys

jhanna

jono38

yeah mine wasn't blown. I pulled it out and the one side was alittle burnt

jono38

so slightly different my red battery light keeps coming on after I replaced the fuse. truck starts no problem I threw the battery on a trickle charger for 18 hours and still nothing. thoughts?

antony1103

I wouldn't just replace the fuse, you need to relocate it with the "fuse 27 relocation kit" sold at the dealership. I was driving on the highway a few months ago when I lost all power and got the battery and limp mode lights. Made it home and found that fuse 27 was charred (not blown). The problem is that the fuse is rated correctly but for some reason the socket that holds it cannot handle the current and melts. The relocation kit physically moves the fuse to a different socket. The fact the you saw some charring on the fuse would be a red flag. I would replace it ASAP. The dealer will charge about $20 for the kit and an hour of labor if you aren't under warranty. I was able to do the work myself with basic tools and a soldering iron. The instructions that come with the kit work fairly well if you have some electrical knowledge.